MultiJoy8 PCB

[ivop]

The design files are attached to the first post. It includes the schematic capture, pcb design files and gerber files for those who just want to get a batch made at a pcb manufacturer. I have none left for sale (already did a second run) but feel free to gauge interest in a 3rd run.

 

Edit: I choose MultiJoy8 instead of MultiJoy4 or MultiJoy16 as a trade-off between board size, cost of materials and number of players.

Edited June 12, 2017 by ivop

[mr-atari]

I just finished mine last weekend, easy to do. :-)

 

Works great.

 

Bought all other parts for less then 5 USD on ebay.

 

Thanks.

[spicyjack]

On 6/11/2017 at 3:13 PM, ivop said:

Big oops here, I mixed up male and female, it's the other way around!

 

As can be seen on the photo: the PCB is intended to have all MALE ports on TOP.

 

So read the previous post by swapping male and female

For those of you who are contemplating building this board, here's an example with the 2 female DB-9 connectors going to the Atari, instead of 2 male DB-9 connectors.

 

I use a pair cheap-o of Joystick extension cables with this, and it works great.

 

Making your own boards

1. I took the Gerbers that @ivop attached to the first post of this thread (look for the attachment "kicad-files.zip") and uploaded them to a Chinese PCB manufacturing service.  It took them about a week to manufacture the PCBs and send them to me, but the down side is that there's usually a minimum order amount involved to make it cost effective.  If you want to find a PCB board service, use your favourite search engine with "pcb manufacture", and maybe pool in with a couple of other people to bring the costs down to something reasonable.
2. The parts I mostly sourced from Mouser.  I had the resistors already, and the capacitor came from a cheap Amazon capacitor kit.  The Mouser part numbers are: 16 pin IC socket - 575-115433163, the DB-9 female plugs are 571-2311765-1, the DB-9 male plugs are 571-2301843-1, Schottky diodes (qty. 40) - 511-1N5819-TR, and the 74ALS138 is 595-SN74ALS138AN.  If you ever plan on using a MultiJoy board with a 1088XE(D) computer, I've heard that they require these Schottky diodes or the computer won't work with the Multijoy board.  If you won't be using this board with a 1088XE(D) computer, then you can use the diodes that @ivop listed in his BOM (bill of materials).
3. Once I had the PCBs and the parts, I soldered the diodes on to the board first, then the chip socket, resistors and capacitor, then the DB-9 connectors last, since they stick out the most.  For the all of the components with leads, bend the leads to all of the parts with leads to the correct hole size using a guide of some sort before inserting them into the board (like a popsicle stick might be the right width).  This will save you a ton of time over bending a part, then inserting it, bending the next one, etc.
4. As you can see, I'm missing a DB-9 male on this particular board, that's my mistake in not ordering enough connectors, and not a problem with the board design or anything like that.  I'm just waiting to make another Mouser order to fill in the missing connector.
5. I have two different sets of joystick extension cables, one set worked, the other did not.  I tested the set that works (eBay speshuls) with a multimeter, and all 9 pins are straight through and conducting those electrons with no issues.  I have not tested the non-working cable, so I'm not quite sure what's up with it.
6. You can use the Hardware Tester.atr disk image mentioned in this thread to test the Multijoy board once you have it soldered and ready to go.

Anyone has any questions about buying PCBs or assembly for this board, feel free to ask me about them here.

 

@ivop, any chance of modifying your first post and mentioning mounting the female connectors to the bottom of the board and not the top, instead of a few posts into the thread?  When I first built this board back in July, I couldn't get it working, and the LS138 would become too hot to touch.  I finally about a month ago decided to re-read this entire thread, and found your post about how to mount the female connectors to the bottom of the board, which is why I have working boards now ?.  Feel free to use the images I've attached to this post in your original post as well to demonstrate how to mount female connectors.  Good news is that even with the incorrect mounting of the DB-9 female connectors, I didn't burn up the LS138 chip, any of the diodes, or my Atari ?

 

Thanks!

Edited December 1, 2020 by spicyjack
Added note about Schottky diode usage

[ivop]

15 hours ago, spicyjack said:

@ivop, any chance of modifying your first post and mentioning mounting the female connectors to the bottom of the board and not the top, instead of a few posts into the thread?  When I first built this board back in July, I couldn't get it working, and the LS138 would become too hot to touch.  I finally about a month ago decided to re-read this entire thread, and found your post about how to mount the female connectors to the bottom of the board, which is why I have working boards now ?.  Feel free to use the images I've attached to this post in your original post as well to demonstrate how to mount female connectors.  Good news is that even with the incorrect mounting of the DB-9 female connectors, I didn't burn up the LS138 chip, any of the diodes, or my Atari ?

PIA is pretty good protected   I asked for editting rights and have updated the first post, including your image, and a link to your post and the 3D model.

 

15 hours ago, spicyjack said:

Thanks!

Thank you, too! It's always nice to see people pick up projects which I shared with the public.  Perhaps you can sell your surplus of boards on AtariAge?

 

[Wrathchild]

I've started to request quotes from local firms to assess what the cost of having the case 3D printed would be in the UK, first back was £75+VAT and so does anyone know if that's ballpark or have suggestions for firms/individuals in the UK who could make the half-height version?

[Troyzilla]

On 6/29/2021 at 7:17 AM, Wrathchild said:

I've started to request quotes from local firms to assess what the cost of having the case 3D printed would be in the UK, first back was £75+VAT and so does anyone know if that's ballpark or have suggestions for firms/individuals in the UK who could make the half-height version?

Did you ever proceed with your attempt to get multijoy boards made?  It's something I'm considering funding because I know a few people here in the US who will buy them if I can get a source.

[Wrathchild]

1 hour ago, Troyzilla said:

Did you ever proceed with your attempt to get multijoy boards made?

Do you mean the cases? If so, I wasn't succesful in finding someone cheap enough 

[Troyzilla]

7 hours ago, Wrathchild said:

Do you mean the cases? If so, I wasn't succesful in finding someone cheap enough 

Oh, I thought you had made boards that you wanted to make the cases for. I can't find any from an existing fabrication so I'm thinking of using pcbway.com to make a run. As for a case, I've had success with Etsy and Thingiverse vendors for custom 3d prints.

[Mathy]

Hello troyzilla

 

You could try asking @krupkaj  he might know where to get PCB and/or case files.

 

Sincerely

 

Mathy

 

[ivop]

10 minutes ago, Mathy said:

You could try asking @krupkaj  he might know where to get PCB and/or case files.

Everything you need to create your own is linked in the first post of this thread. Gerber files are in the zip file, STL files for 3D printing the case are on Thingiverse.

 

HTH HAND ,

Ivo

 

Edited January 22 by ivop

[krupkaj]

12 hours ago, Mathy said:

Hello troyzilla

 

You could try asking @krupkaj  he might know where to get PCB and/or case files.

 

Sincerely

 

Mathy

 

I have some PCB left. Just send me a PM 🙂 Also can print the 3D parts. But it is a little different version.

Edited January 23 by krupkaj

[ascrnet]

12 hours ago, krupkaj said:

 

wow, Do you have pictures of the version with joystick indicator led? 😅

[krupkaj]

Not yet, this one is without it, but I think I can use piece of transparent filament as lightconductor.

[ascrnet]

On 1/24/2023 at 1:10 PM, krupkaj said:

Not yet, this one is without it, but I think I can use piece of transparent filament as lightconductor.

thanks, I found your 1.2c version interesting. 😉

[krupkaj]

Yes I am not sure I have the latest version online at my web. I am afraid the 3d parts are not included. I will check it on the weekend a will update it.

[ascrnet]

12 hours ago, krupkaj said:

Yes I am not sure I have the latest version online at my web. I am afraid the 3d parts are not included. I will check it on the weekend a will update it.

perfect to see if I can make the PCB and assemble one, I made a multijoy years ago but with a prototype board and many wires.😆

 

please don't forget to add the list of electronics to buy.😅

 

Lastly, reviewing your website I noticed your MXPad I added it to my GitHub in case someone wants to know of another device that has as a second option the compatibility with JOY 2B+.

[Mathy]

Hello guys

 

Not sure if you guys missed it, but krupkaj also made a hub that can be used to connect two of his MultiJoy8 interfaces together to create a MultiJoy16.  Text is in Czech, but nowadays it's not that hard to find ways to translate it.

 

Sincerely

 

Mathy

 

[ascrnet]

17 minutes ago, Mathy said:

Not sure if you guys missed it, but krupkaj also made a hub that can be used to connect two of his MultiJoy8 interfaces together to create a MultiJoy16.  Text is in Czech, but nowadays it's not that hard to find ways to translate it.

yes I saw it, but there are few games for 16 players😅. the one I made was only for 4 players since the first attempt failed, but the second one worked.😄

[Mathy]

Hello ascrnet

 

But that's the nice thing about the hub.  If you ever do find more than eight players that want to play a game that is able to handle more than eight players, two MultiJoy8 interfaces can be joint together.  And with a couple of extension cables, those don't even have to be (both) made by krupkaj.

 

Sincerely

 

Mathy