bohoki Posted December 28, 2016 Share Posted December 28, 2016 (edited) it may sound like a sensational headline but if you have some skill and fortitude it can be done parts list some thin wire (i just used some old ac adapter wire) so free momentary push button (for start) db-9 male connector less than 50 cents most places they can be found db-15 female connector less than 50 cents two 240k resistors about 10 cents each soldering iron (if you dont have one you probably shouldn't attempt this) ohm meter for testing your work ok disclaimer time all information is for entertainment purposes only no warranties expressed or implied by reading this you agree to hold harmless any and all agencies affiliated. use of solder may expose you chemicals that cause harm . improper or proper assembly may cause harm to your system. the end product will not be fcc approved , ul listed ,osha approved or ergonomically designd device may result in hand damage, eye damage, crotch fires ,toe aches ,inner ear discombobulation do not attempt to do this at home ok to make it less confusing i'll break it into stages left and up directions down and right directions buttons start button adapter harness since you will be using the original cable and plug after modification you should mark the plug end with some tape (not for 2600) i recommend using a joystick that has 2 fire buttons you can isolate them and use them as b1 and b2 if not drill a hole and use a momentary pushbutton the resistors will be inside the joystick carcas not in the adapter harness you will also need to cut off the metal housing for the 15 pin plug and fuse the 2 plastic parts together with the soldering iron (careful because freshly cut metal is often sharp) here is my horrible complex confusing diagram but if you just take them one by one you can do it after opening your joystick you will want to isolate the common ground from the buttons via circuit board cuts or with a wico or suncom stick cutting wires (the black one is often the ground what you want is the top and left common to still be connected and the right and bottom to remain connected and have the buttons common also be tied to the right and bottom any questions? Edited December 28, 2016 by bohoki 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0078265317 Posted December 30, 2016 Share Posted December 30, 2016 nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bohoki Posted December 30, 2016 Author Share Posted December 30, 2016 oh also this will not work for analog games such as superbreakout,missile command,gorf, kaboom,star wars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Everett1954 Posted December 30, 2016 Share Posted December 30, 2016 Great idea but lousy drawings, I can't figure out what you are doing. Can you use a pinout table or a standard schematic? Sorry, very hard to follow for me. Start by explaining the adapter cable the DB-9 to DB-15 , then modifying controller with extra button and resistors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zonie Posted January 1, 2017 Share Posted January 1, 2017 X2^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bohoki Posted January 1, 2017 Author Share Posted January 1, 2017 here is a schematic of what should be inside your controller if you can figure out how to make the external adapter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBubble Posted January 1, 2017 Share Posted January 1, 2017 Thanks for the post! I think the world needs a sealed adapter that's around $20 that sits between an existing controller and the 5200, so you can still use CX52 for start/pause and the keypad. Do these exist? I've seen the $89 ones of ebay, and of course the masterplay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0078265317 Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 Masterplay clone is the only option I have seen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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