The Ultimate Atari Joystick

[+fdr4prez]

In homage to the Ultimate Atari Flashback, I am pleased to present the Ultimate Atari Joystick.

This is a Jakks Pacific Atari 10-in-1 plug and play system that has upgraded to be the ultimate.

Original Jakks system:



This is the Ultimate Atari Joystick:



Notice the difference?

There is an HDMI and microUSB cable that now go to a Raspberry Pi Zero:



Items needed:
Jakks Atari 10-in-1 game system
Raspberry Pi Zero
8gig microSD card
90-degree mini-HDMI to standard HDMI cable
90-degree microUSB extension cable
90-degree 2x20 header
jumper wires
mounting hardware
DB9 extension cable (optional - if you want to add support for Player 2)

The disk image is based off of the image provided by Byte Knight for his Ultimate Atari Flashback, but this one is tailored to the Pi Zero: Ultimate Atari Joystick Image

There are 14 homebrew games supplied with the image, and there is plenty of room for more.

 

This PDF shows the overall process I used to build the Ultimate Atari Joystick
Ultimate Atari Joystick build out.pdf

If you want to add a DB9 extension so you can connect a standard Atari joystick for Player 2, then this is mentioned in the PDF on where to connect the DB9 cable.

 

All the buttons on the side work in Stella. The Start and Select work as on the console. The Reset button is the exit game command to go back to the game list. The ON/OFF switch has been rewired to function as the Left Difficulty switch.

 

Unfortunately there is only one slide switch on the unit, so a second switch can be added if you need the Right Difficulty switch - which is desirable for some game settings in some games

 

This project would not have been possible without the help of Byte Knight, pimpmaul69, intvdave, and mthompson - many thanks to all of you guys!

 

Now I'm off to start working on the Ultimate Atari Paddle

Edited January 21, 2017 by fdr4prez

[Harrison]

This is really cool. This would be great to take on trips. It's kind of a hassle packing around the console and cartridges, or even a flashback. Just throw this in your suitcase and you're good to go.

[+fdr4prez]

This is really cool. This would be great to take on trips. It's kind of a hassle packing around the console and cartridges, or even a flashback. Just throw this in your suitcase and you're good to go.

 

Thanks. Having a more portable system for traveling was one of my main goals.

[akator]

Wow.

[Tifany]

I had that exact same idea not too long ago! But then I just gave away my plug and plays, ugh! Great work!!

[RT12 Productions]

Hello, FDR4Prez!

 

How about making a SuperUltimate Atari joystick/paddle controller that's based off the Atari 5200 SuperSystem controller?!?!

Then—you may take advantage of its built-in keypad, and have it compatible with A2600/A5200/A7800 games!

[+fdr4prez]

Hello, FDR4Prez!

 

How about making a SuperUltimate Atari joystick/paddle controller that's based off the Atari 5200 SuperSystem controller?!?!

Then—you may take advantage of its built-in keypad, and have it compatible with A2600/A5200/A7800 games!

 

Thanks for the suggestion.

 

I'll look into it, but I've never played on the 5200 or the 7800 systems before, so I am not familiar with those controllers.

 

My main goal for these projects is to be able to hide the Pi Zero, and adapter if needed, within the joystick or controller, so outwardly the joystick/controller looks unmodified.

 

I am not sure those controllers have the room to hide the extra hardware needed. For example, take a look how I am hiding/mounting the Pi Zero and adapter for my Ultimate Intellivision Controller; while not fully enclosed in the controller, the Pi and adapter are well hidden. I am not so sure that this will be possible with the 5200 controller.

 

The Jakks Pacific Atari game system is a bit bigger/deeper than the standard Atari joystick, and, as luck would have it, the battery compartment is just about the perfect size to mount everything in it. While on the other hand, the Atari Flashback wireless joystick also has a battery compartment, but overall it is much too small for such a project as this.

 

I am nearing completion of my Ultimate Atari Paddles based on the Jakks Pacific Atari Paddle game system, and then I have two other unrelated projects that I am anxious to start and complete. I've already thought about doing a project for the modded Atari 2600 trak-ball games and the Atari 2600 2-buttons game hacks

 

So much to do, so little time to work on them.

[luizgpf]

Amazing. I was planning to do something similar into the Jakks 10 in one. But even before destroy, drill, wire up something, I decided to search about it.

Your PDF about how to do it is perfect.

Already bought an old Atari 2660 clone in Brazil (yeah .. due some restrictions at the Atari time we had tons of cheap clones .. not that cheap), and an raspberry zero to adapt inside.

Downloading your Ultimate Joystick image.

So when everything arrives will be a quick job to put all together.

Quick question ... that Ultimate Atari Joystick is ready to go ?

Just unpack, save on a SD and use it? Already configured all scripts and butons based on your PDF?

Of course adding some extra roms and box art.

Once again .. bravo. Excellent job.

[+fdr4prez]

Amazing. I was planning to do something similar into the Jakks 10 in one. But even before destroy, drill, wire up something, I decided to search about it.

Your PDF about how to do it is perfect.

Already bought an old Atari 2660 clone in Brazil (yeah .. due some restrictions at the Atari time we had tons of cheap clones .. not that cheap), and an raspberry zero to adapt inside.

Downloading your Ultimate Joystick image.

So when everything arrives will be a quick job to put all together.

Quick question ... that Ultimate Atari Joystick is ready to go ?

Just unpack, save on a SD and use it? Already configured all scripts and butons based on your PDF?

Of course adding some extra roms and box art.

Once again .. bravo. Excellent job.

 

 

Yes, the SD card image is ready to go based on my PDF.

 

For clarification, you do not "save on a SD". You need an image writer to write/restore the image to the SD card. I use Win32 Disk Imager on my Windows 7 64-bit laptop.

 

I have been meaning to create a new image file using the newest RetroPie version. At the time that I created this project the Pi Zero W was not available and this means that the RetroPie version I used is not compatible with the Pi Zero W, but it does work on the Pi Zero 1.3

[bikeguychicago]

The Pi _just_ fits too. Nice job!

 

Please post some pics of it in action, too.

[luizgpf]

 

 

Yes, the SD card image is ready to go based on my PDF.

 

For clarification, you do not "save on a SD". You need an image writer to write/restore the image to the SD card. I use Win32 Disk Imager on my Windows 7 64-bit laptop.

 

I have been meaning to create a new image file using the newest RetroPie version. At the time that I created this project the Pi Zero W was not available and this means that the RetroPie version I used is not compatible with the Pi Zero W, but it does work on the Pi Zero 1.3

 

Even better .. downloaded the app to restore ... thanks for the tip.

 

I will use original Atari joystick and as said before an Atari clone, so I can reuse all switches (difficult, power on/off that will act as reset, select and start).

So based on your pdf I presume that raspberry works on pull-up resistors idea.

The joystick actions will be wired to the GPIO ports and the return will be grounded.

Same for switches ... all connected to GPIO ports and the return wire grounded.

Right?

[+fdr4prez]

 

Even better .. downloaded the app to restore ... thanks for the tip.

 

I will use original Atari joystick and as said before an Atari clone, so I can reuse all switches (difficult, power on/off that will act as reset, select and start).

So based on your pdf I presume that raspberry works on pull-up resistors idea.

The joystick actions will be wired to the GPIO ports and the return will be grounded.

Same for switches ... all connected to GPIO ports and the return wire grounded.

Right?

 

 

That is correct, the joystick and buttons/switches are passing ground to the GPIO

 

Which model of Raspberry Pi Zero do you have?

[+fdr4prez]

Even better .. downloaded the app to restore ... thanks for the tip.

 

I will use original Atari joystick and as said before an Atari clone, so I can reuse all switches (difficult, power on/off that will act as reset, select and start).

So based on your pdf I presume that raspberry works on pull-up resistors idea.

The joystick actions will be wired to the GPIO ports and the return will be grounded.

Same for switches ... all connected to GPIO ports and the return wire grounded.

Right?

 

Actually, if you are using an Atari clone to hold everything inside it, then you may want to look at the The Ultimate Atari Flashback thread instead of this one.

 

For the Ultimate Atari Joystick you are limited to using only a joystick, and currently this SD card image must use a Raspberry Pi Zero 1.3 (next week I can start work on a new image for the RPi Zero W)

 

For the Ultimate Atari Flashback you can use all possible Atari controllers (joysticks, paddles, trak-ball, and the driving controller) because that build uses the 2600-daptor II and not GPIO for the joystick. This project uses a Raspberry Pi 3, so it is more powerful and more flexible.

[luizgpf]

 

Actually, if you are using an Atari clone to hold everything inside it, then you may want to look at the The Ultimate Atari Flashback thread instead of this one.

 

For the Ultimate Atari Joystick you are limited to using only a joystick, and currently this SD card image must use a Raspberry Pi Zero 1.3 (next week I can start work on a new image for the RPi Zero W)

 

For the Ultimate Atari Flashback you can use all possible Atari controllers (joysticks, paddles, trak-ball, and the driving controller) because that build uses the 2600-daptor II and not GPIO for the joystick. This project uses a Raspberry Pi 3, so it is more powerful and more flexible.

I will use the Pi Zero 1.3 ...

Only the case will be different since I want to use 2 players DB-9 and dificult switch out of the box .. no need to drill extra holes and fit inside a small space

So I can reuse all actual commands from Atari clone to wire up to GPIO and no 2600-daptor needed .. I want to keep that simple (and cheap).

Still thinking if will use the channel 3-4 selector for on/off or maybe a fake cartridge to do that

[+fdr4prez]

I will use the Pi Zero 1.3 ...

Only the case will be different since I want to use 2 players DB-9 and dificult switch out of the box .. no need to drill extra holes and fit inside a small space

So I can reuse all actual commands from Atari clone to wire up to GPIO and no 2600-daptor needed .. I want to keep that simple (and cheap).

Still thinking if will use the channel 3-4 selector for on/off or maybe a fake cartridge to do that

 

You can shut down using the menu, and it is preferred to use that method for turning off the Pi.

 

If you have an on/off switch that simply cuts power off, then there is a risk of file corruption.

 

I can modify the python script so that your switch (or button) issues the shutdown command, but you will need to disconnect/reconnect the power to get power back on. Or if you really want to have a functional power on/off switch, then I recommend purchasing a Mausberry Circuit power switch.

 

I also have a new python script that adds in support for the Color/B&W switch, and adds in the Channel 3/4 switch. More importantly it uses a combo press of the Select and Reset switches to quit the game, so this is helpful for when there is no separate quit button.

[vidak]

This is a fantastic hack!

 

I just bought a Raspberry Pi 3 for a specific project, but since I can't afford at 2600 here in Australia, I think I'll hack together a PieCade!

[+fdr4prez]

This is a fantastic hack!

 

I just bought a Raspberry Pi 3 for a specific project, but since I can't afford at 2600 here in Australia, I think I'll hack together a PieCade!

 

Thanks.

 

If you are using the Pi3, then this SD Card image is not for you.

 

For RetroPie there are two images. One image for Pi0/Pi1 and another image for Pi2/Pi3

 

So if you are using a Pi3, then look at the The Ultimate Atari Flashback thread instead of this one.

 

The Ultimate Atari Joystick image is geared for the Pi0 and using the Jakks 10-in-1 system, and the Ultimate Atari Flashback image is made for the Pi2/3 using the Atari Flashback console with the 2600-daptor II adapters

 

If aren't really going to be using a Jakks or Flashback console and if you are adventurous, then you can use the RetroPie image and build up your own theme. I'll help out if you need a script for any external buttons/switches.

 

Good luck

[vidak]

Thanks so much!

[luizgpf]

 

You can shut down using the menu, and it is preferred to use that method for turning off the Pi.

 

If you have an on/off switch that simply cuts power off, then there is a risk of file corruption.

 

I can modify the python script so that your switch (or button) issues the shutdown command, but you will need to disconnect/reconnect the power to get power back on. Or if you really want to have a functional power on/off switch, then I recommend purchasing a Mausberry Circuit power switch.

 

I also have a new python script that adds in support for the Color/B&W switch, and adds in the Channel 3/4 switch. More importantly it uses a combo press of the Select and Reset switches to quit the game, so this is helpful for when there is no separate quit button.

Cool,

Can you please add the shutdown button functionality on the script ?

I will wire up the 3/4 switch to send the shutdown the command.

As this is not a visible or used button anymore I can reuse it for that

 

Thanks

[luizgpf]

Finally ... after 3 years. 
Had some time to work in my Retropie.

Thanks a lot by your disk image and explanations.

Thanks to that, all my job was related only to roms, images and a lot of 3D work to recreate joysticks that use cheap push button and micro switches.

Let me see how long it will last playing Decathlon with this 8mm steel rod inside.

Blue Joystick is the version 1.0, purple  2.0 and black 3.0.

All 3 functional (just space, angle and cable management)

Green cartridge is just for fun

 

[+fdr4prez]

36 minutes ago, luizgpf said:

Finally ... after 3 years. 
Had some time to work in my Retropie.

Thanks a lot by your disk image and explanations.

Thanks to that, all my job was related only to roms, images and a lot of 3D work to recreate joysticks that use cheap push button and micro switches.

Let me see how long it will last playing Decathlon with this 8mm steel rod inside.

Blue Joystick is the version 1.0, purple  2.0 and black 3.0.

All 3 functional (just space, angle and cable management)

Green cartridge is just for fun

 

Wow, congrats 

 

yes, projects of love take time 

 

It sounds like your beefed up and reinforced joysticks could be classified as a weapon 

[rocketfan]

@fdr4prez Ever thought about updating this concept using a Hyperkin Trooper 2 - that is a pretty high quality USB Atari stick with select/start and some shoulder buttons.  If you could route the Trooper II USB signals internally to the pi zero you could play 2600, 5200, 7800 and Atari 8bit pretty well on the thing.  Use the leftover "original" USB cable as your power cable... 

[+fdr4prez]

Thanks for the suggestion. That is definitely doable, and probably less work for me, so long as there is room. In these Jakks Pacific units, the 4x AA battery compartment is just about the perfect size for the added hardware.   

 

I have a small amount of these right now, so I've not looked into other designs. I can add other systems right now, but a 1-button joystick is a bit limitation. 

 

My intention was to do an upgraded version of the plug&play and I think I've accomplished that

 

I've sold about a dozen of these, but I am not selling them at this time. 

 

Unfortunately the newer versions of Stella are too resource heavy for the Pi0. So after the installation I need to downgrade Stella down to v5 so it'll run properly on the Pi0. 

 

Raspberry Pi Org. has just released a new RPi0-2-W that should be good enough for Stella (I hope), but they are perpetually out of stock everywhere I look 

 

Stella v5.0.2 is good enough for all the original games, but the newest homebrew need the newer stella