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ivop Multijoy board case 3D print file?


slx

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My son just finished soldering our first ivop Multijoy board (which is very nicely done :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: ).

 

I wondered what other buyers/builders use for a case and if maybe anyone has printed one and would be willing to share the files (or the design of a non-printed case).

 

(If not, I should probably try my hand at designing one but lacking engineering and CAD training I expect this to be a quite tedious trial and error affair :-o )

Edited by slx
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post-20947-0-04411700-1482594424.jpg

 

Can you give me the length and width of the board I may be able to make something. I have the db9 connectors so I should be able to get the rest from that and possibly make something that will work.

 

EDIT:

 

Yours is the same as this right

 

post-20947-0-77114100-1482594666.jpg

Edited by SignGuy81
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To my knowledge, no case has been designed yet. The PCB is exactly 10x10cm, not considering the overhang of the DB9 connectors.

 

I suggest making a lasercut box with T-slots. That way it can fit neatly around the connectors. Traditional DIY project boxes are probably difficult to work with if you have connectors at three or four sides.

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To my knowledge, no case has been designed yet. The PCB is exactly 10x10cm, not considering the overhang of the DB9 connectors.

 

I suggest making a lasercut box with T-slots. That way it can fit neatly around the connectors. Traditional DIY project boxes are probably difficult to work with if you have connectors at three or four sides.

 

 

I agree, also the pic I posted above has a connector on crooked so that could be a problem too might run into. I could design the case with 2 sides and front completely open that a face snaps into which goes around the ports neatly, I think.

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I know there was some discussion about cartridge board enclosures over the years and those people had been getting enclosures, that are a little larger then the board from somewhere.

 

I found this: http://www.diy4u.co.uk/Item/junction-box-waterproof-100

 

Been looking at this site to see if they have anything close to fitting. https://www.thingbits.net/products/adafruit-bbb-case-enclosure-for-beagle-bone-black

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I guess before I get started designing something I need to ask if you did like the pictures and put the cords on J1 and J2 or instead used DB9 connectors?

 

NM,

I can design it as if they are all DB9 connectors but add 2 pieces that will slide in the two that will fit snuggly around the cords if it was done that way instead.

Edited by SignGuy81
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Hello guys

 

You do realize that you'd need three different versions of the case? Depending on the way the interface is connected to the computer? (Male DB9, female DB9 or cable)

 

One solution would be to make all cases so that there would be a break away part for the DB9 connectors. Meaning that if you are not using connectors, you would have to do nothing to the case. But if you do use DB9 connectors, you'd have to break out "the thinner parts" in the case specially made for this purpose.

 

Sincerely

 

Mathy

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Hello guys

 

You do realize that you'd need three different versions of the case? Depending on the way the interface is connected to the computer? (Male DB9, female DB9 or cable)

 

One solution would be to make all cases so that there would be a break away part for the DB9 connectors. Meaning that if you are not using connectors, you would have to do nothing to the case. But if you do use DB9 connectors, you'd have to break out "the thinner parts" in the case specially made for this purpose.

 

Sincerely

 

Mathy

 

I already covered that pretty much. The male connector will be larger so I would make all but 2 of the port holes a little larger if not all the same size I don't think it will matter too much if a little bit of gap is around the 2 female plugs(I believe I didn't mention that part however but yes am aware of it) and will add 2 other pieces to slide in those spots for if a cord is used instead.

 

EDIT:

I had that worded funny basically I'm just going to make them all the same size as the male plugs probably but if not the female plug holes will be smaller(a little gap isn't going to hurt much though), you got me all mixed up now, errrrrrr.

 

 

grrrrrrrr Now I have to do another EDIT:

 

No I will make them all the same size as I cannot make the holes smaller for the female ports because the male ports will fit around it and basically all holes need to be the same size. Duh, so it is back to what I originally stated to begin with which is basically all same size and I will make 2 pieces that slide in the hole for if cords are just going to be used in place of db9s. All holes need to accommodate a male plug. But yeah I was thinking about that too earlier so I'm not trying to criticize your input on the matter just wanted to come back and explain what I came up with.

 

Try to think of it like this, take all connectors which are male plugs, and then the 2 that are female plugs go ahead and plug male plugs in cause that is what it will be in the end, then you have all holes needing to be size of the male plug.

Edited by SignGuy81
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Hello SignGuy81

 

If I got this correct, the male DB9 connectors, if used, are placed on top of the PCB, while the female DB9 connectors would be placed below the PCB. That would mean that the holes for the male connectors are placed higher in the case than the holes for the female connectors.

 

Sincerely

 

Mathy

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Hello SignGuy81

 

If I got this correct, the male DB9 connectors, if used, are placed on top of the PCB, while the female DB9 connectors would be placed below the PCB. That would mean that the holes for the male connectors are placed higher in the case than the holes for the female connectors.

 

Sincerely

 

Mathy

 

 

Well, that may be the case if so I need to look into that but i thought it would have placed onto the top just like the others. Good thing I haven't started anything yet.

 

I was assuming everything went on top though due to the silkscreen.

 

EDIT:

 

Thank you for pointing that out I just found his original thread and sure enough if using female connectors for J1 and J2 they need to be mounded on the bottom. So what I would probably have to do in that case is design holes for top, and bottom depending on which way a person has theirs set up, and include two blanks also. Thanks again. I might not full with any of this till later on this week or next weekend.

Edited by SignGuy81
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If you are trusting enough you could send me one, that way I can make sure everything fits like it should and send it back with the case.

 

I'm working on another project currently, but I would be happy to do so once I have that completed.

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Wow, this forum never stops to amaze me. Thanks to all posters who have given thought to this.

 

I'd be very happy with STLs as, having been wise enough to let Santa bring one for the kids, I have access (if not ownership) of a 3D printer :-D

I'd probably also be able to print a few surplus and mail them to European users who don't insist on top quality (still learning how to calibrate and set up that printer - it's actually busy turning out my first Sio2SD box while I'm at work, so I don't yet know how good I am at printing "large box-type objects.)

 

I thought that bottom part with a "ledge" to rest the PCB on and a bit of a "depression" in the middle to leave space for soldering and stuff sticking out of the PCB and a top part with cutouts for the DB9 housings would do the trick. Didn't think about how to stick this together but maybe a drop or two of glue would do the trick as there's hardly any servicing to be done once the unit is finished and tested.

 

Ours is done with DB-9s all around but for those who chose cables some kind of strain relief might be in order (if the DB-9 covers in that position are made to break away that would preclude tying a knot into the cord for simple strain relief.

 

Some Atari/Multijoy/RaSter/ivo logo on the top case would be the icing on the cake though such stuff might be difficult to print nicely.

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  • 1 year later...

Hello slx

 

If the PCB won't fit inside the case wt808 designed (very nice looking by the way!!), you could desolder the existing DB-9's from the PCB and screw/glue different DB-9's to the case and use wire to connect the DB-9's to the PCB.

 

Sincerely

 

Mathy

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I don't own a Multijoy but created these models based on the photos: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3608558

attachicon.gifMultijoy8RectangularUnified.jpg attachicon.gifMultijoy8RectangularTallUnified.jpg

The side bezels will need more work after confirming that the PCB fits inside.

 

Again, thank you very much! This worked out nicely:

 

post-4219-0-26183300-1557696792_thumb.jpg

The top part, the long panel to the right is a bit thinner as it warped off the build plate during printing and I had to abort, but it's thick enough to use and with the warp it will bend nicely against the mounting slots.

 

post-4219-0-69191400-1557696809_thumb.jpg

board fits nicely

 

post-4219-0-37325600-1557696829_thumb.jpg

No screws yet, so it looks a bit lopsided as the halves aren't aligned correctly (but they do align).

 

post-4219-0-21900400-1557696862_thumb.jpg

input side (long)

 

post-4219-0-89936500-1557696883_thumb.jpg

computer connection side

 

I think I will just leave it like it is. For a more elegant solution the side panels would need to have holes to fit the DB-9s (and there would be a need to have "double height" side panels as well.

 

Some Multijoy lettering, Atari logo would be nice, too. (BTW, I wondered if there's slicing software that will slice a logo into transparent parts? I think it would look great to have part of the insides of a transparent part Fuji-shaped.)

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:thumbsup: Thanks for posting photos. Are the two hex standoffs on each port removable? I can add just about any text, logos, and text effects as long as it's not copyrighted or trademarked. Let me know what you have in mind. Fine detail and effects may not always appear as expected with 3D-printing. As an example of what's possible...

post-30371-0-30846000-1557774770.jpg

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