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broken Coleco Telstar


bradhig1

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Someone must havr been rough with this thing because the speaker broke from it's housing on the case. Also one screw is partially stripped and won't turn so I can't get it completely open. I tried to fine tune the rf box inside and I can't clear up the screen. The game plays just scrambled picture and no sound. Any ideas.

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I've had luck with this before, get some JB weld, mix it up, and put a dab of it on the end of the screwdriver(not a lot) and put the screwdriver down on the head of the screw and let it set up. Be sure not to use too much so that the JB weld doesn't also stick to the plastic so that it is touching nothing but the tip of the screwdriver and the screw. After it has set, you may be able to turn the screw out. That is another option you can try. Really need to have the thing completely apart before even trying to attempt to fix any of these problems.

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I got the telstar open enough to adjust the rf and I can't clear the picture up. When I plug it in the next there is no picture just snow and I have to adjust the rf box again. The glue that held the speaker in place broke at some point and that is why the speaker came lose. When I put an Alan wrench in the hole on the right side of the rf box and turn it I can clear up the picture a little.

 

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So is it one of the screws holding the circuit board that you can't get out? Take a picture of the screw.

It is one of the screws holding the case together. I took a photo of the circuit board to show the rf box that is problematic.

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Edited by bradhig1
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Need better pictures. Straight on top down view of entire circuit board, both sides, and if can open RF box and get pictures. If it requires getting case apart more to get the board out and get a better picture then get that screw out and get it apart. Before doing anything else though try a different cable and see if that clears up the picture, I see it has a jack so it can easily be replaced. Pretty obvious what needs to be done with speaker, put it back secure it again and solder the leads back in place, then test to see if it works if not we can go from there, with better pictures hopefully.

Edited by SignGuy81
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The picture was snowy when I turned it on today. After I tuned the rf box it got like the second photo which is where it was when I unplugged it yesterday. It keeps going back to a snowy picture until I tune it. There is a photo of the screwdriver I am using to try to undo the screw. It just won't turn no matter how much force I put on it.

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I used a bigger screwdriver and got that sucker out. I'll remove the circuit board tomorrow and look at the bottom of it. Used the same big screwdrivier to open up that jakks activision plug and play I got from Goodwill Friday. A couple of batteries in it had an accident and I had to clean it out. I am leaving it overnight to dry.

Edited by bradhig1
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This is how I tune the rf box it also acts as a channel select I taped the wires to the speaker and the sound worked until I put the unit back together. Tomorrow I will find a way to cut the insulation off the wires so I can solider them back on. Ebay seller didn't say the speaker fell off and the speaker wires were broken. If I push the alan wrench all they down and it touches the bottom of the shielding the graphics get garbled and when I think the picture is nearly cleared up it gets messed up when I pull the wrench out.

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Okay I got the board out and it is bent a little The RF shield has one of the battery connections on it. I am afraid there might be a wire inside running from the shield to the top of the shield. What is the blue thing that turns next to the RF shield? It changes the picture a little

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Thanks for the pictures. It is hard to tell by the photo for sure but it looks to me the two solder joints(ground on the RF jack the two outer pins) may need reflowing, as well as another joint looking at the back side of the board it is to the left in the picture of the other two joints I was talking about, near the corner of the RF box. It is one of the joints on the blue potentiometer. Reflow the joints on the jack and all three on the pot.

 

EDIT:

Also too looking at the back side of the board, same orientation from photo with the RF box to top. From the middle tab of on the RF box, straight down 2nd and 3rd solder joints, reflow those as well. Also the solder joint closest to the left of the RF box looking at the board the same way. Also look for any I missed that may be cracked or where you see a gap between the lead and solder, and reflow them. I say reflow but if you have the tools to desolder and then resolder them all that would be better.

Edited by SignGuy81
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Thanks for the pictures. It is hard to tell by the photo for sure but it looks to me the two solder joints(ground on the RF jack the two outer pins) may need reflowing, as well as another joint looking at the back side of the board it is to the left in the picture of the other two joints I was talking about, near the corner of the RF box. It is one of the joints on the blue potentiometer. Reflow the joints on the jack and all three on the pot.

 

EDIT:

Also too looking at the back side of the board, same orientation from photo with the RF box to top. From the middle tab of on the RF box, straight down 2nd and 3rd solder joints, reflow those as well. Also the solder joint closest to the left of the RF box looking at the board the same way. Also look for any I missed that may be cracked or where you see a gap between the lead and solder, and reflow them. I say reflow but if you have the tools to desolder and then resolder them all that would be better.

Do you mean I hold the soldering iron to the solder to melt it or add new solder?

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Here is what the video looks like now. I want reliable equipment that works. This stupid Telstar, my Playstation one slim ,and that broken paddle with my ultra pong doubles why? I would like to remove the RF shield but it appears to be welded and one of the battery wires is connected to it.

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