Definitive guide to burning 3DO games?

[seastalker]

In my stack of burned CDRs, many play just fine, some stutter on FMV and some spit out as if to say "No thank you."  I may experiment with the discs I heard were best for Playstation 1.  Look up Taiyo yuden, and the SPECIFIC ones suggested were their generic named ones (same discs though).  Here's the info: CMC pro  Powered by TY Technology   Part# T-CDR-ZZ-SB    UPC code: 678621011127  100 pack    DESCRIPTION: CDR Lacquer   Made in Taiwan

 

I will try at lowest speed and fastest.

[Taijigamer]

There are 3 key factors in getting good burns. 1. The quality of the burner - is the laser dying? 2. The quality of the CD-R, Taiji yuden are the best choice. 3. The quality of the reader - 3DO lasers are extremely flaky at this age and there are no replacements available. Burning at lower speed is not a universal rule. It’s best to burn at the recommended speed for the media and burner. 
 

At this point I would recommend people start planning to switch to 3DO usb. Lasers are starting to fail more and there are no replacements for 3DO.

[seastalker]

A Hyperspin complete set is about 94 GB, so even if you added any non-game titles they may have had, you probably could fit the whole collection on a 128GB SD card.  This console is ripe for an ODE replacement like the NeoGeo CD SD Loader or Gamecube equivalent. The GC I can play off USB on my modded wii, Neo Geo has MiSTer AES/MVS options, put Panasonic has no other system or platform (yet).  It is emulation or the hardware.  Yes, there is the option by 3do-renovation, but I will wait for something more cost effective or even better, a MISTER core. 

[Rick Dangerous]

3 years after starting this thread, i burned by first three 3DO games last night.

 

-Corpse Killer

-Dragon's Lair

-Sewer Shark

 

They work; look and play great. 

 

Found a nice version of IMGBurn here:

 

https://macintoshgarden.org/apps/imgburn-250

 

Basically you download the Bin/Cue or ISO, load it up, set the write speed to 1x (only have to do this once), and hit "Burn"

 

It's that easy!  

[jcalder8]

On 1/30/2020 at 2:42 PM, Rick Dangerous said:

3 years after starting this thread, i burned by first three 3DO games last night.

 

-Corpse Killer

-Dragon's Lair

-Sewer Shark

 

They work; look and play great. 

 

Found a nice version of IMGBurn here:

 

https://macintoshgarden.org/apps/imgburn-250

 

Basically you download the Bin/Cue or ISO, load it up, set the write speed to 1x (only have to do this once), and hit "Burn"

 

It's that easy!  

You mean you still haven't burned Dino Tycoon? lol

[Rick Dangerous]

Nope..... couldn't find the ISO. Found two different 3DO sets and they were both pretty weak.

[Matt The Cat]

I couldn't get any burned discs to work when I burn (either ISO, or bin and cue files) to a Verbatim CD-R at the lowest burn speed I could (8x on a PC from 1999 with some Sony CD and DVD burner and reader) (using ImgBurn) (Windows 2000 with BlackWingCat Kernel Extension) to run on my A/B Switch model Japanese FZ-1. I have used this exact way and method to burn PS1 games to play on my unmodded Japanese Launch model PS1, and with the Disc swapping trick it worked perfectly. From what I read, the 3DO doesn't have any antipiracy protection or region locking. I know the system works because I have run official Japanese Myst and theme park 3DO games on it.

 

Additional less formal text:

From this thread alone I have heard that that you should burn at 1x (which is impossible for probably any CD drive made after 1995, and looking on eBay, I personally cannot find any that mentions 1x burn speeds, or even 4x), so I go with my slowest supported burn speed, 8x, and that has worked fine on my PS1. Also I have found that while you can set ImgBurn to 1x, it just defaults to the lowest supported burn speed. So, as far as what CD to use, I have read on multiple sites that you should use a 650mb Taiyo Yuden CD or clone (all that I see specify that they are 700). (Could I get a recommended amazon or eBay link to make sure I wouldn't be getting scammed on the model). Or are their other recommendations or definitive answers?

I also made a Reddit post if you are more comfortable sharing there: https://www.reddit.com/r/3DO/comments/11t6a2p/help_running_burned_discs/

 

 

 

[Taijigamer]

On 3/17/2023 at 12:12 AM, Matt The Cat said:

I couldn't get any burned discs to work when I burn (either ISO, or bin and cue files) to a Verbatim CD-R at the lowest burn speed I could (8x on a PC from 1999 with some Sony CD and DVD burner and reader) (using ImgBurn) (Windows 2000 with BlackWingCat Kernel Extension) to run on my A/B Switch model Japanese FZ-1. I have used this exact way and method to burn PS1 games to play on my unmodded Japanese Launch model PS1, and with the Disc swapping trick it worked perfectly. From what I read, the 3DO doesn't have any antipiracy protection or region locking. I know the system works because I have run official Japanese Myst and theme park 3DO games on it.

 

Additional less formal text:

From this thread alone I have heard that that you should burn at 1x (which is impossible for probably any CD drive made after 1995, and looking on eBay, I personally cannot find any that mentions 1x burn speeds, or even 4x), so I go with my slowest supported burn speed, 8x, and that has worked fine on my PS1. Also I have found that while you can set ImgBurn to 1x, it just defaults to the lowest supported burn speed. So, as far as what CD to use, I have read on multiple sites that you should use a 650mb Taiyo Yuden CD or clone (all that I see specify that they are 700). (Could I get a recommended amazon or eBay link to make sure I wouldn't be getting scammed on the model). Or are their other recommendations or definitive answers?

I also made a Reddit post if you are more comfortable sharing there: https://www.reddit.com/r/3DO/comments/11t6a2p/help_running_burned_discs/

 

 

 

As I mentioned above, burn speed is not important unless using pre 2000 computers and burners. Anything modern just use the preset speed by imgburn. It’s likely that your 3DO drive laser isn’t strong enough to read cd-r. You will need an oscilloscope to tweak the laser power. I don’t recommend tweaking it blindly as it’s easy to kill them.

[dankcomputing]

The 3DO shares CD mechs and lasers with early (we're talking 2-4X) CD-ROM drives, mostly of the SCSI or MKE persuasion. They'll be Panasonic/Matsushita manufactured, or rebranded for OEM use (most of the SCSI ones will be branded as AppleCD 300i). Swapping is an option, but as mentioned earlier in this thread, even when these drives are working perfectly you'll need to be burning Taiyo Yudens on the oldest CD burner you can find at the slowest speed it will allow.

 

The MKE drives are sought after by 3DO Baster owners so that pretty much leaves the SCSI ones. If you find one in a Mac you need to stay intact you can just swap a newer one with a compatible faceplate (AppleCD 600i) or move the faceplate over since it's obviously not going to be of use in the 3DO.