sad days

[andyteethyea]

hi all thanks for letting me join

 

my 2600 6 switch with a rgb mod is playing up at first it woukd always act as if the fire button was pressed after looking about i saw the cutting pins 9 and 10 and solder the pads fix so i did that now it always acts as if the down button is pressed so i replaced the 4050 chip all together and still same result just walks down no matter what joy stick i use

 

had anyone had this issue before or know how to solve it

 

thanks andyteethyea

[RamrodHare]

id like to help but your post is hard to read since theres no capital letters or punctuation at all so i dont know where sentences begin and end making it very hard to follow im guessing you posted this with your phone and just couldnt be bothered to try and make it actually readable after trying for a while to decipher your post ive gathered that the joystick is always moving down this has been discussed before on the forums so taking the time to use the search function would probably find you the answer you are looking for quicker than your post will

 

Honestly, it was extremely hard for me to write that without any capital letters or punctuation.

[andyteethyea]

yeah sorry im really dyslexic but yeah thats the issue

when i searched i found the always fireing button issue but nothing for the down button

 

ive used atari joy sticks and a power play cruiser from my spectrum and no joy stick at all with same results

[RamrodHare]

It sounds to me like the pins for the joystick port may be broken. I had a Vader that was always going left and that turned out to be the issue. If you have a tester, check the continuity of all the pins from the joystick side of the connector to the board. If the pins all check out, then you'll have to wait on an answer from someone familiar with the 6er board.

[SignGuy81]

Sounds like a cap may be shorted or bad RIOT to me.

[SignGuy81]

Okay I think I understand some of what you posted. I'm assuming you meant there were cut traces going to pins 9 and 10 of the RIOT chip is that correct? If so I can understand the problem because those pins are for left and down on the joystick but if it was cut it should be the opposite and not work unless it was also shorted solder across it to ground or something. Or did you mean you were looking for cut or corroded traces and not that you found any? The fire button runs through the 4050. The directionals do not. Their are debounce caps from the input lines to ground which if shorted will act as the button is pressed.

 

EDIT:

A loose connection will not cause this issue, it will cause it to not see the input when you are trying to press it. A short somewhere however will make it see it pressed all the time.

 

In your case since it is the down direction. With the controller unplugged, and unit off take a multimeter and check across those caps. For the left controller it is caps C228 - C235 and I believe it is C229 you want to check for the down position. If you see a short across it, it will not verify the cap is shorted but just that you have a short to ground on the input line. What you will do next is desolder and lift one side of the cap then check again to see if it is the cap that is shorted.

 

EDIT:

If short is still there on same line after lifting one leg of the cap, and you have thoroughly gone over the trace on the board and controller port and have verified no visual short then pull the RIOT and see if it goes away. If so it should bad RIOT. Also if there was never a short to start with on that line it should be bad RIOT.

Edited November 23, 2017 by SignGuy81

[Video]

Check the dome in the controller. It sounds like down may be crushed. Have, or can you try a different controller?

 

If you take it apart, there are silver metal discs for the directions and fire. Some are soldered, some are taped. If its taped, it could be crooked and touching ground and down at once. You can peel it and retape it, if its soldered, you can resolder it, and try to bend the dome back in shape, or get a replacement part.

 

If the controller is fine, there's a short in the console somewhere, since you've already had it apart, I'd look for corrosion, the system may have suffered something being spilled in it at some point. It could be a bad chip.

 

Post pics, it may help people help you if they know board revision and what mods you have.

Edited November 23, 2017 by Video

[vidak]

I understand dyslexia. It's hard. If you think about it, a lot of the behaviours we have about reading and learning how to read are weird and don't make sense.

 

There are some cool fonts you can learn to enable on your browser which can help you read and write better!

[andyteethyea]

thanks for all the replys witch ones the RIOT chip

ill take some pictures of the board tomorrow. The post i read said the pins 9 and 10 on the small 4050 chip are the fire b7utton, so when there cut and the 2 pads are solderd together seem to fix the issue for most.

i replaced the whole chip in the end no longer fires all time just moves down

i dont have a meter to hand might it just be worth buying a cap set? if so is there any seller of atari kits in the uk?

also its deffo not the controller does it when ones not plugged in

 

thanks andy

[SignGuy81]

Okay, if you cut the pins 9 and 10 of the 4050 and then jump the pads together you are bypassing the buffer and if the 4050 was the problem with the fire button yes that will solve that issue but the TIA will be more vulnerable. But what I'm trying to find out is if you were also having problem with down to start with or did it happen after you got fire working? Also having trouble still understanding for sure if you cut the pins and jumped the pads together, or if you mean you just read about it still, but then wound up replacing the chip which fixed fire but still have problems with down(or down problem came after fixing fire issue).

[SignGuy81]

I told you the wrong cap in an earlier post. The cap on the down input for the "left" controller should be C233, not C229. C229 is down for the "right" controller. Sorry for the mixup.

[SignGuy81]

The RIOT chip you should see C010750 or 6532 on the chip, or easier I guess just to say the top chip.

Edited November 24, 2017 by SignGuy81

[SignGuy81]

Also I take it you have soldering iron but no meter from what you say about instead buying the caps. I would instead first just lift one leg of the cap in question, C233, and then try turning it on and see if that stops the problem of down staying on. If so then you know the cap is shorted. I would do that before buying anything(other than meter you should go ahead and get one of those).

 

EDIT:

 

These caps should be an okay replacement and cheap in UK

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Multilayer-Axial-Ceramic-Capacitor-Suntan-1000pF-10-50V-X7R-0-001uF-1nF-10pcs/122109035797?hash=item1c6e440515:g:zMkAAOSw9N1VvJPI

Edited November 24, 2017 by SignGuy81