broken light sixer price suggestion?

[+rbairos]

Came across this offer for a light sixer, but it turns out a switch is missing and doesnt power up according to the seller.
However, there's a mess of controller types and *55* cartridges:
He was originally asking $125 before discovering the broken switch, and it not powering up.

Here's a snapshot of the ad I snagged:

https://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NDUwWDgwMA==/z/CVAAAOSwvBBZ3fYU/$_3.JPG

Any suggestions what I should offer?
He suggested a name a number.

Thanks,
Rob.

[atari-dna]

Offer him $100, then send me the unit and I’ll repair the switch issue for $10

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[SignGuy81]

Way overpriced and yes that is seeing what is included(and the two joysticks are missing boots) which you can buy all the stuff separately plus a better light sixer and pay less. I wouldn't even make an offer on that junk.

Edited December 23, 2017 by SignGuy81

[SignGuy81]

If you want to pay $100 and up get this instead. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Atari-2600-6-Switch-Woodgrain-with-21-Cartridges-Tested/232427436230?_trkparms=aid%3D888007%26algo%3DDISC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D41375%26meid%3Dd5066324e39b4c04b436a51459025df6%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D2%26sd%3D322859291004&_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982

[SignGuy81]

You may like this too https://www.ebay.com/itm/ATARI-CX-2600-CONSOLE-LOT-21-Games-Joysticks-Manuals-VCS-LIGHT-SIXER/322926447447?hash=item4b2fea8b57:g:UUYAAOSwyH9aKGdv

[SignGuy81]

PS

 

That was a good deal offered for the switch repair but you got to think about what you are paying for the console, cost of shipping to get it repaired, and also it is probably a separate issue for the power seeing it isn't the power switch or reset switch so the guy may charge extra labor and parts to get the power going(he didn't say) so you may wind up paying quite a bit more than you wanted.

[+rbairos]

Right, but not pictured in that link is the 55 cartridges.
Im in Toronto Canada, so this would be a local pickup too.

I have some soldering and basic electronics experience, so I could repair the switch myself, it not powering up is more of a wildcard for me though.
Sending it away wouldn't be feasible for my location.

I guess Im wondering how much would 55 cartridges, 4 paddles, 2 bootless-joysticks, and a couple more, plus a possibly almost working light sixer be worth.

[Jinks]

About 75-80 as is. I would not pay more if needed a 2600. Going to be 120-130 with shipping.

[+rbairos]

Thanks Im leaning toward that price as well. Just came back from a vintage gaming shop, where they are asking between $8 - $10 per cartridge, so 55 cartridges for about $80 + that hardware sounds pretty good
Its a local sale so I can just pick it up.

Edited December 23, 2017 by rbairos

[RamrodHare]

I wouldn't estimate cart value based on vintage game shop prices.. I've been lucky to get $1 a cart for my games. My opinion would be to offer around $75 since the console won't power up.

[Video]

If their commons, their a range of $1-$2 each (more if bought and shipped individually) so just the games will be in the range of $55-$110. If its known working system, that would be a decent deal, for a broken, possibly not working system, its close.

 

If I was buying I'd consider it worth it if I didn't have a few of the games, I can always use parts, repair the console, and auction what I don't need/want.

[+rbairos]

Thanks. For more reference just visited a larger game shop downtown. Jr is $99, Vader $145 and heavy sixer Sunnydale $269.

Carts between $10 and $35. Picked up megamania for $10 just cuz it's Christmas

Edited December 23, 2017 by rbairos

[Jinks]

Thanks. For more reference just visited a larger game shop downtown. Jr is $99, Vader $145 and heavy sixer Sunnydale $269.

Carts between $10 and $35. Picked up megamania for $10 just cuz it's Christmas

Thats a rip off... shops need to charge that to keep the lights on tho.

[RamrodHare]

Thanks. For more reference just visited a larger game shop downtown. Jr is $99, Vader $145 and heavy sixer Sunnydale $269.

Carts between $10 and $35. Picked up megamania for $10 just cuz it's Christmas

Those prices are crazy. I don't know how much difference there is between dollars in Canada and the USA, but those prices still sound WAY too high. A working Jr. is around $40-50 here and a Vader or woody can be bought for $30-50. The heavy sixers are more, but not $269! The only way a game should be worth $10+ is if it's rare or boxed.

 

Something else you should consider about the deal, is that everything in it will need some work probably. The carts may only need a cleaning, but the console needs work, as you know, but those paddles will need the pots disassembled and cleaned or they will need the pots replaced. The joysticks also need new boots and possibly new PCBs. You also won't know if the power supplies are working unless you test them with a working system or a meter before buying them. In my opinion, it's a big gamble, but if you can afford it, that's cool. I just want you to know what all might be involved in that deal. Worst case scenario, everything may need parts and work, other than the carts. Best case, everything will just need cleaning and a few parts for the joysticks and console..

[AtariLeaf]

Those prices are crazy. I don't know how much difference there is between dollars in Canada and the USA, but those prices still sound WAY too high. A working Jr. is around $40-50 here and a Vader or woody can be bought for $30-50. The heavy sixers are more, but not $269! The only way a game should be worth $10+ is if it's rare or boxed.

 

 

 

It's not a Canada thing. The prices you mention are about par for the same items in my area. Maybe it's a Toronto thing. Everything is expensive there. I'd need a second mortgage to buy nose bleed Leaf tickets at the ACC.

[+rbairos]

I'm assuming game shops 'need to keep the lights on' as mentioned, especially in the bug city. Consoles seem to be cheaper on Kijiji from what I've seen. Haven't seen any heavy Sixers on them yet though.

Edited December 24, 2017 by rbairos

[+rbairos]

Well I picked up for $80 tonight.

Had some extra manuals I didn't expect, which is nice, but the current status:
One of the power supplies mostly flickered at 0 volts, occasionally holding 14v on the multimeter.
The other power supply held steady at 14v.

When I connected everything to a vintage CRT I bought for $15, I mostly just got pure snow.
The power switch is pretty sticky too.
However, there seems to a lose connection on the power input port. When I press on it a certain direction, I get a signal to the TV, recognizable but somewhat snowy.

The other thing is only 2 out of the first 5 cartridges I tried seem to launch correctly, the others were random patterns/noises.
I also tried them on my mod'd flashback 2 with the same results. (2 worked, others black/random)
I figured carts were pretty hardy, but I guess not.

Any tips on how I can go about restoring this?

Here's my list so far:

1) Determine if the first power supply fault is at the tip, otherwise not sure much I should/can do with it.
2) Open up the unit, and resolder the power supply jack, which seems intermittent.
3) Order + replace the missing select switch.
4) Figure out how to make the power switch smooth, otherwise replace it?
5) Clean the cart connections for oxidation maybe?

Any advice appreciated, especially on the unresponsive carts.

Thanks very much,
Rob.

[RamrodHare]

You have one good power supply it sounds like. Use it, don't worry about the other one, it's probably not worth the effort to worry about it now.

For the carts, clean the contacts with 91% alcohol and something lint free.

For the power jack on the console, it probably needs to be replaced.

Forget about the original switch box and get a barrel type RCA to coax adapter.

If you are going to get your replacement parts from Best Electronics, there's a minimum order, so get everything you think you need in one go.

Console5.com has refurb kits that include the power jack and all the components that go bad overtime. The kit is cheap, so it's probably something you want to look into.

If you are going to use those two joysticks, consider rebuilding them with the Gold PCBs from Best Electronics. You also need new boots for them and possibly the retaining rings for the boots. The paddles may need new pots, so think about that too.

There's a lot of "ifs" involved in what you have and what you know about how well the stuff works, so it may come down to what you can afford to go ahead and replace and what can wait. Of course getting the console working is step one. Then you need working joysticks and paddles. You game carts are probably fine, they probably just need the contacts cleaned. The cart slot may also need cleaning. There are plenty of instructions online to help you with all the things you need to do or you can just ask the members here.

Don't let my list of things overwhelm you, most of this stuff is fairly simple to work out. If you can't afford all the parts for everything, just focus on the console, then worry about the accessories later. There are plenty of members who have extra working joysticks or paddles they will probably sell for a reasonable price.

If you don't feel comfortable with all the work involved, we can walk you through it step by step or there are members who will do the work for you if you don't mind the cost.

Edited December 28, 2017 by RamrodHare

[Osgeld]

that 2 button grip style joystick is 10x better than the hand crampers anyway IMO its what I use

 

get a can of contact cleaner from the electrical isle of your local big box hardware store, that will take care of almost all contact issues in the cart, the slot, controller ports, power jack if its not sprung or loose, and the switches, cost like 10 bucks and its handy to have around anyway

 

ISO alcohol wont do crap against oxidization or corrosion, contact cleaner will pull green crap off a brand new copper pipe

Edited December 28, 2017 by Osgeld

[+rbairos]

Thanks for all the advice RamrodHare, Osgeld.

 

Osgeld do you mean something like:

 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-QD-11-oz-Contact-Cleaner-02130-6/202262505

 

"Ideal for telephones, PCs, relays, edge connectors, tape heads, buss bars, circuits, contacts, printed circuit boards, switches and circuit breakers"

 

or:

 

[Edit: not safe]

 

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/motomaster-electrical-contact-cleaner-150-g-0381740p.html#srp

 

"MotoMaster Electrical Contact Cleaner is ideal for removing dust and debris from electrical contacts, connectors and switches"

Edited December 28, 2017 by rbairos

[+rbairos]

Forget that Canadian tire link. Not safe for electronics:

http://atariage.com/forums/topic/192696-electrical-contact-cleaners/

[+rbairos]

Ended up picking up some:

https://www.thesource.ca/en-ca/audio-and-headphones/portable-audio/portable-audio-accessories/nexxtech-contact-and-head-cleaner-spray/p/4408726

and 99% isopropyl alcohol

Will give it a good cleaning soon

[+-^CrossBow^-]

Also think about getting some De-ox-it. It is a strong electronic contact cleaner and as the name implies, designed to remove oxidation from electrical contacts. What I usually do with my games, is to first go over them with the 99% alcohol like you purchased with a q-tip until they aren't turning black anymore. Then I wait for the alcohol to completely dry, and then hit the contacts again with a fresh q-tip dipped slightly into my small jar of de-ox-it. Stuff smells like an auto repair garage, but you would be surprised sometimes at how much extra crap it pulls off those metal contacts afterwards.

[Osgeld]

I use the home depot stuff all the time well lowes I dunno if its the same thing looks like it, I have used de-ox-it before its great stuff, but the only place that had it locally was radio shack and it was the same price for half the can of just normal contact cleaner, they all do pretty much the same stuff (maybe de-ox-it does it in one pass vs normal does it in 2)

 

I know I can take a switch measuring several ohms on an atari, spray its insides, actuate it about a half dozen times and respray to wash it out and almost instantly the contact resistance drops to like 0.02 ohms

Edited December 28, 2017 by Osgeld

[+rbairos]

Well no luck on three carts. Used qtips with 99% isopropyl then the radio Shack head cleaner. Tested on modded FB2 which does work with other carts.