Jump to content

CX10 disassembly photos


Recommended Posts

I recently got a pair of CX10 joysticks and I thought I would share some photos. I initially took a set of photos comparing them to a CX40 joystick. Then later I took them apart and took several photos of it disassembled. I posted many of these photos to the AtariAge FB group, but I figured this forum is a more permanent place for these photos. If you are curious about what CX10's look like inside, read on.



CX40 on left, CX10's on the right. From this shot, you can observe a few subtle differences. I'll address them in more detail below.



Here is a shot of the undersides. Again, CX40 on left, CX10's on the right. The keen eye will observe the screw holes are not as deep on the CX10's. You may also notice that both my CX10's are missing two screws each, which indicates somebody has probably had these apart before.



Here is a pretty good view of where the Atari logo "hex disc" would go. Right on top of the shaft, there is an indentation for it. Unfortunately, the discs are missing on mine.



Top of the CX10. Notice the CX10 does not say "TOP". Also notice the paint color is more yellow on the CX10.



Notice the CX10 has no ring holding down the rubber boot. At first I thought it was missing on mine, but now I believe it was not designed as part of this joystick.



The fire button has more travel on the CX10.



The CX10 has a skinnier plug.



First look inside the controller.



This shot allows a look inside the mechanism to see how the joystick works.



Here is the PCB. Notice the "Innovative Leisure" slogan under the Atari logo. The board number reads "C010712 REV 5"



Removing two screws allowed me to detach the PCB from the top half. Notice each direction on the joystick and the fire button gets a spring. There is an intermediate plastic piece that holds the springs in place and presses down on the "dome" contacts on the top of the PCB when the joystick is moved.



Joystick shaft removed from inside the rubber boot. It just slips right out. Four springs are attached to the shaft.



Closeup shot of the top half of the PCB. Notice on mine, the "dome" contacts are pretty worn out and appear to be somewhat crushed. I may need to replace those.


The CX10 in these photos did not work when I did my first tests. I took it apart to clean it and photograph it. These photos are more or less considered "before" photos. I hope to post more after the joystick is repaired, cleaned, and is functioning. My conclusion about the CX10 joystick is that is feels a bit looser than the CX40. The joystick seems to have more movement and is easier to push in the directions. The fire buttons definitely has more travel to it. I am curious how it feels in actual gameplay. The design seems pretty robust with the exception of the "dome" contacts on the PCB.


Lastly, if anybody has a source for parts or any tips on restoring these joysticks, post them here. I'd love to hear it.




  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here are a few more photos, taken while I cleaned it.



Here it is fully disassembled, ready for a bath in the kitchen sink.



Here is the top piece, top and bottom view. Part number C010717 3.



The internal plate, top and bottom view. Part number C010714-D.



Here is the base, top and bottom view. Part number C010716.



Here is the joystick shaft with springs, top and bottom view. Part number C010715.



Fire button with spring. I could not find a part number on it. It should be noted that the springs for the joystick and the spring for the fire button are all identical.



Rubber boot before cleaning. Man, I wish I had taken this same shot after I cleaned it. It'd be a lot easier to read the part number. Looks like it reads C010710. I'll get a better shot when I clean my other CX10.



Here is the cable plug. It's skinnier on the CX10.



The CX10 cleaned up nicely!


Next I will test and repair the circuit board.




  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great work on the photos. That's the first time I've seen a CX10 disassembled and laid out to show the differences. There's a board member who's making brass discs for these too (EDIT: Just saw you posted in that thread already.). I'd love to get a set sometime, but I can't afford it right now. Keep us updated if you find replacement "domes" for them. I know it wouldn't be original, but if the domes turn out to be hard to find, you might be able to get some really small micro switches instead. Thanks again for sharing the photos! :thumbsup: ;-)

Edited by RamrodHare
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you for posting!

I have some like this style that need cleaning and refurbishing.
They really changed a lot between 1977, 1978 and 1979.


*Your pictures are of the 1977 original model.

*The 1978 CX-10's can be different in these ways:

• Different board with some contacts, everything else like the original, as in springs, plastic tray...

• Rubber cover without top indent.

Everyone recommends Best gold contact replacement boards for CX-40's and I guess the CX-10's with round contacts.
I bought 2 boards, and tried them in two CX-40, and neither lined up. All 4 directions correctly work, the fire button does not.

I noticed on my downstairs Heavy Sixer I've been using a CX-10 that arrived working 100%. I like the way they feel a lot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Here are some more photos and new part numbers.



Rubber boot part number C010710



This internal plate in white has a slightly different part number. C010714-C



And here is the different style circuit board. These have the triangular dome contact switches. Looks like it is not made by Atari, as there is no Atari logo on it. There is only the text "Santa 88". However, it has an Atari-style part number on it. C011655-3


The good news on this CX10 is that it works completely. So I guess the triangular dome contact switches are superior to the rectangular ones.






Link to comment
Share on other sites

I decided to desolder the contact switches and clean and reshape them. After removing them, I discovered some of the contact switches were just not in very good shape. The mashed ones weren't pretty, but it was the cracked ones that concerned me a little. So I decided to remove the contact switches from my other CX10 and choose the five best ones for this restoration. In the mean time, I will have to try to find replacement contact switches.



Here is the underside of the board after desoldering the contact switches.



Here is the top side after removing the contact switches. I cleaned the contacts on the board.



Here are all ten contact switches. I put the best ones on the top row and the worst ones on the bottom row.



New contact switches soldered into place.



Finished restored board with new contact switches soldered in place.



Here it is all cleaned up and put back together. And the good news... it works 100% now!





  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Create New...