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Designed a TV Stand/Console holder for this Sony Trinitron WEGA 40" beast


icemanxp300

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I found this information which says that the KV-40XBR700 which is essentially the same TV as the 800 has true 240p compatibility.

 

https://static1.squarespace.com/static/51f517f0e4b01da70d01ca2a/t/5a2f36e953450aa1429361d9/1513043690556/240p-TVs_20171211.pdf

 

http://www.hdretrovision.com/240p/#list

 

There's two different things going on there.

 

"240P Compatibility Test" simply means you'll get a picture when plugging up a 240P source.

 

"240P Processing Test" means the TV actually recognizes 240P as a separate entity from 480i.

 

Take a look at the SONY KDL-55W807A vs the next one: KDS-50A2020 on that page.

 

Regarding the KV-40XBR700 you mentioned, all that confirms is when you plug up a SNES you'll get a picture. How 240P is processed is marked as ???.

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Ok, I just got this Plywood. It's just about 1/2". I plan on doubling it up which will make it just about 15/16". I ended up getting 14 pieces that are all 4' x about 33 1/2". I did not expect the circle grip side to be so nice. It has tiny circles and looks really nice. I am thinking the grip side might actually be the side to show. Plus the TV and systems will not slide on the stand.

 

I asked the guy what they make out of it and he said truck floor liners.

 

What side would you guys use flat or circle?

 

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post-25078-0-09020100-1514919021_thumb.jpg

 

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Circle, for sure Iceman. I assumed you meant to do that all along, it has a very cool look.

 

When you cut it, does it have a black core? Or do you have to paint cut ends where they show?

 

When you cut it, the inside is not black only the edges.... However the factory edges for this has 3 sides coated already. I have already went through and redesigned a new sheet which will yield me factory edges on every side that will be visible. I did this last night.

 

The F marks factory black edge.

 

post-25078-0-80902400-1515011767_thumb.jpg

 

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I don't know about you guys but I like to watch the wood working shows and I'm going to use a trick they had on there for covering the screws. You can buy wood plugs but if you want to keep the same wood grain and all that you cut your own circle plugs out of a piece of scrap from what you are using.

 

So when I screw/nail it, I have not decided yet. I will try to pre drill in the center of a circle and then counter sink the circle and use the scrap to hole cut the circles to plug the screw/nail holes. It will be nice. I would like to screw but w/only having 1/2" I think nail may be better. Even though I am doubling up for about 1" I rather not drill between two pieces.

 

For the price I can't complain. I paid a whopping $28 for (14) 4' x 33 1/2" sheets. I had to go out that way anyhow so not really out of my way much. Plus this nice black coating eliminates sanding, pre stain conditioner, and stain. This black is so much nicer for the look I wanted. I originally wanted black like this but could not find any for sale.

 

Not sure when I will get on this as we are looking at 0 degree temps in a few days and I'm not real thrilled about cutting this stuff outside in the snow lol. Plus I have to dig my table saw out. Another trick I do is I use masking tape over where the blade will cut. This will prevent chipping/splintering and give a much cleaner cut. I went to Lowes and had them cut a $65 piece of oak plywood and they splintered it. I was pissed to say the least. I now annoy the hell out of them while I tape everything I want them to cut lol.

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Perhaps move that CRT from the garage into the house first to make sure it works? Let the WEGA set for a day inside to dry out any condensation from the heat change. For now, you could place it on the floor in the closet and test run for a few days to make sure that power detection chips do not give you any problems.

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Not sure when I will get on this as we are looking at 0 degree temps in a few days and I'm not real thrilled about cutting this stuff outside in the snow lol. Plus I have to dig my table saw out. Another trick I do is I use masking tape over where the blade will cut. This will prevent chipping/splintering and give a much cleaner cut. I went to Lowes and had them cut a $65 piece of oak plywood and they splintered it. I was pissed to say the least. I now annoy the hell out of them while I tape everything I want them to cut lol.

 

The circle side of the panels look great! For the Table Saw cuts, the finish side should be up; wood tends to splinter underneath. If using a hand held skilsaw, the finish side should be down.

 

Perhaps move that CRT from the garage into the house first to make sure it works? Let the WEGA set for a day inside to dry out any condensation from the room heat change before plugging in. Really, pop the back cover and give it a dust out before plugging in. For now, you could place the TV on the floor maybe in the closet and test run for a few days to make sure that power detection chips do not give you any problems.

 

A good idea to power on and off with the button on the TV and not the remote and try to keep to just once power on a day. Just a precaution to prevent double power spike of the sensitive MCZ2001D (hopefully revision B) chips.

Edited by CRTGAMER
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Perhaps move that CRT from the garage into the house first to make sure it works?

 

Regardless if it works I still need a stand to store my consoles and whatever TV I use. I will get it in soon as I can but it's a beast and I need to get someone to help me. I'm not sure my wife's wrist would support 300lbs w/those straps I just purchased and my dad lives 50 minutes away. My closest friends would probably break in half trying to help me as they are twigs lol. I'll get it soon though. I doubt it will suffer any further moisture as it is only one temperature right now and that is freezing. We do not even see a 30 degree day until next week.

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Ok, I just got this Plywood. It's just about 1/2". I plan on doubling it up which will make it just about 15/16". I ended up getting 14 pieces that are all 4' x about 33 1/2". I did not expect the circle grip side to be so nice. It has tiny circles and looks really nice. I am thinking the grip side might actually be the side to show. Plus the TV and systems will not slide on the stand.

 

I asked the guy what they make out of it and he said truck floor liners.

 

What side would you guys use flat or circle?

 

attachicon.gif100_2225.JPG

attachicon.gif100_2226.JPG

attachicon.gif100_2229.JPG

 

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Circles? They look like hexagons to me. Hexagons, like the cross section of a 2600 controller handle. Therefore, you have to use that patterned side. :)

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Circles? They look like hexagons to me. Hexagons, like the cross section of a 2600 controller handle. Therefore, you have to use that patterned side. :)

 

Yeah that's how the ad was originally listed and I just went w/it. They are def. hexagon w/grips inside each one. This material is really nice. I'm going to get more and build shelves out of this stuff. I have pine shelves I put a lot of time and money in which I will not replace but I kind of want to hahaha. The guy says he 2' x 8' pieces and I really want those. That would make some nice shelves/bookcase.

 

I was thinking of using my scrap and making some coasters. This would make a nice 2600 theme material.

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Man I should start selling this shit in flat rate boxes LOL. You can't go wrong especially w/the large flat rate elongated boxes that are 11.75" x 3" x 23.6875". I cut rip it down on my table saw in no time. The guy told me he cuts this stuff all the time and constantly has more to sell. It's nice they are small enough I can toss in my mazda 3 w/seats down lol.

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  • 1 month later...

Ok so I am going to discuss the TV's I get here as well. Just nabbed a KV-32FV300. I actually grabbed a 2nd KD-27FS170 a few days ago.

 

So my dad came over and helped me get this in. It was a bit heavier than I expected lol. It is temporarily on a cart until I get a permanent place for it. I may give away or sell that XBR-800 I got a few months back as it is to heavy to move, still debating on this.

 

The first thing I noticed is this TV as compared to the 27" KD-27FS170, seems extremely picky. I hooked up a couple of model 2 genesis systems and the picture had horrible vertical bars that looked like ass. So I hooked up my model one I use for testing, it is nothing special but light years better image quality. However you can't see in pic but it does have some horizontal waves. I am currently using cheap cables and power supply. Waiting to see if it needs to warm up.

 

I will tryout my HD Non-TMSS later w/official power and official component cables and see how it looks. As of right now the 27" has a better picture. This picture isn't bad but the 27" is not picky at all, everything you toss at it looks crisp.

 

 

Ok so I just removed the 32x and after market cables as those are all I have to connect the 32x with. Using the same aftermarket power but oem component master system YW cables, it cleared up 90% of the wave on screen. I then used an original power and it is a 100% crisp image.

 

So while the KD-27FS170 does not seem to care much about cable quality, this KV-32FV300 does. Other than being picky about cable/power quality it is the same picture as the KD-27FS170. Sweet TV.

 

 

Ok another update, I ran the 32x again but with the original power and it was crisp, so not as picky as I thought. Basically it just doesn't like the 3rd party power supply, the a/v cable is ok. I went back and tossed the model 2's back in w/an original power supply that I used to power the 32x, same result as the 3rd party supplies, ugly vertical bars.

 

It appears that the model 2 original power 15W is insufficient where as the model 1 being 18W is enough or the model 2's just suck that bad. I always liked model 1's over model 2's anyhow.

 

 

post-25078-0-19358100-1519423799_thumb.jpg

 

 

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  • 5 months later...

Ok so I have been working on this stand for awhile now. I actually started on it about a month ago or so. I had to order all my hinges and such special as I wanted all black. I decided to go with some steel dowels for my shelf pins because this wood is only 1/2" thick and I needed to find something I could stick through both sides. Now mind you the pins are not perfectly even. I just stuck them in before I screwed it together because the holes were very tight and I had to round them out and make sure the pins had a snug fit.

 

I just today finished cutting all the shelves. Each shelf is 11 3/8" wide and goes back 29" deep. The Stand 48" x 30 1/2" x 33" LXWXH. I used 2" wood screws and countersunk every screw hole. However only having 1/2" wood I did not counter sink far, just flush. I am planning on just painting the screws w/satin black.

 

I am down to my very last step and I am unsure of what to get. The front if you notice has the center uprights set back 7/8" this is because I am adding glass doors that will fit in those pivot hinges and then in the center I will have the magnetic latches that will stick to strike plates on the glass doors.

 

I have a choice, get clear tempered glass or grey tempered glass (1/8"). I am looking at like $50-$60 each for clear or $85-$90 each for grey. I will need two so as they swing apart in the middle. My two magnet latches will sit on both side of the center upright. Now if I get grey it will look nicer but will hinder the ability to see the consoles. I as well am considering throwing some led lighting inside. If I do this the grey would also hinder the color.

 

It's a tough decision on whether to go clear which will show the consoles better and lighting if I add it or go grey for a better matching color and overall appearance.

 

At any rate I am extremely happy w/how it turned out.

 

post-25078-0-50523100-1533180480_thumb.jpg

 

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