+tf_hh Posted December 2, 2018 Share Posted December 2, 2018 Another option is to use a DVI-D to HDMI cable that also carries the analog audio signal. https://www.mycablemart.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=6237 Thanks, but this doesn´t work this way - the television hasn´t an additional analogue input for audio. Only when switched to SCART input, the RCA jacks for audio are used Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+tf_hh Posted December 2, 2018 Share Posted December 2, 2018 Or find some (pro) mixing device that has hdmi in and out that allows to convert and mix the audio into the hdmi output... The are some "injectors" on the market, DVI and/or HDMI input, analogue audio using RCA and the device mux them all together to one HDMI output with audio. But I didn´t find a smaller than 10x8 cm, this won´t fit. The owner of this 5200 wants, if possible, a nice solution built-in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+slx Posted December 2, 2018 Share Posted December 2, 2018 The are some "injectors" on the market, DVI and/or HDMI input, analogue audio using RCA and the device mux them all together to one HDMI output with audio. But I didn´t find a smaller than 10x8 cm, this won´t fit. The owner of this 5200 wants, if possible, a nice solution built-in. What about this one, it's a bit smaller? It was made for and I use it on a Mac Mini that does not have HDMI output. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jowi Posted December 2, 2018 Share Posted December 2, 2018 (edited) That looks like it actually converts the analog audio to digital audio...? Worth a try. Edited December 2, 2018 by jowi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillC Posted December 2, 2018 Share Posted December 2, 2018 Won't work. Take a closer look and you'll see that it doesn't convert the analog to digital that the HDMI requires. I did say analog audio, which would plug into analog inputs on the TV or sound system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+slx Posted December 2, 2018 Share Posted December 2, 2018 Looking at it again I'm not really sure anymore that it actually uses analog audio in as the Mac seems to be capable of optical digital audio, the connector on the box has a hole on the tip, and the description on the Ebay page says that the box is capable of transmitting 5.1 sound. What if you use one of the combined DVI/audio cables linked above and put the audio inserter box behind the TV rather than inside the 5200? That would still leave you with one cable from the 5200 to the TV and only a little "loop" of audio cable behind the 5200. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted December 2, 2018 Share Posted December 2, 2018 I did say analog audio, which would plug into analog inputs on the TV or sound system. Yes, but most HDTVs I'm familiar with don't allow for that option. Or in otherwords, when you have an HDMI input selected, the TV expects the audio input to be derived from the HDMI cable itself which is digital in nature. Maybe some HDTVs make an exception, but none of mine do, and I have 8 different models. So I felt it was important that people realize this, and perhaps check out the situation on their TV prior to spending money on a cable that wouldn't work for them. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc13 Posted December 2, 2018 Share Posted December 2, 2018 I saw the Monoprice item at the beginning of this thread, but this device is not really small. Here are some pictures of the Monoprice device installed inside my 1200xl with a scale for reference. This device resolved all of my issues with monitor compatibility and it works great, but I remember reading some reviews of the device where they had problems with audio not working after a while. So far it's holding up well. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mathy Posted December 2, 2018 Share Posted December 2, 2018 Hello guys Am I the only one who wonders what features/possibilities all the "missing" parts on a PCB like this would add? Sincerely Mathy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jowi Posted December 2, 2018 Share Posted December 2, 2018 Nothing is missing; connectors where removed and hardwired. Bottom right was the dvi connector, bottom left the L+R audio inputs, i guess top right was the power supply. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc13 Posted December 2, 2018 Share Posted December 2, 2018 Nothing is missing; connectors where removed and hardwired. Bottom right was the dvi connector, bottom left the L+R audio inputs, i guess top right was the power supply. That is correct - only the bulky connectors were removed to allow for an internal installation. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jowi Posted December 6, 2018 Share Posted December 6, 2018 Just found out that the mounted Sophia board is too high to fit in a 600XL... the board itself is just a fraction to wide and to long to fit in between the surrounding chips, so Simius added an extra dip connector to elevate the board so it rises above these elements, but that also means the GTIA chip is now so high up that the top lid with the keyboard doesn't fit anymore... I'm sure i'm not the first who encounters this? Are there dip sockets with limited height maybe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simius Posted December 6, 2018 Author Share Posted December 6, 2018 No. The additional socket is intended as replacement of the original GTIA socket, not to elevate the board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jowi Posted December 6, 2018 Share Posted December 6, 2018 Ok i understand. But the board doesnt seem to fit without it? Its just a fraction too wide and too long to fit in between the surrounding chips as far as i could see. I will take a closer look tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jowi Posted December 7, 2018 Share Posted December 7, 2018 No. The additional socket is intended as replacement of the original GTIA socket, not to elevate the board. Do i understand correctly that the way you intended us to mount this, is to desolder and remove the original GTIA socket, and replace it with the spare socket you provided? And plug the board in that spare socket (and the GTIA in the board ofcourse) ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simius Posted December 7, 2018 Author Share Posted December 7, 2018 Right. The original sockets are low quality and the board can slide out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jowi Posted December 7, 2018 Share Posted December 7, 2018 Ok, thanks. I will take a look later today on how to mount the board without the 'spare' socket. As far as i could see before, it wouldn't fit, therefore it looked logical to me to add the extra socket to gain some height, that way the board cleared the surrounding components. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jowi Posted December 7, 2018 Share Posted December 7, 2018 It looks like U24 and U8 are preventing the Sophia board to fit. Both U24 and U8 are socketed, so they rise up quite a bit. I think the simplest solution is to remove the sockets for both chips and solder them directly to the board? Any other ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Robot Posted December 7, 2018 Share Posted December 7, 2018 It looks like U24 and U8 are preventing the Sophia board to fit. Both U24 and U8 are socketed, so they rise up quite a bit. I think the simplest solution is to remove the sockets for both chips and solder them directly to the board? Any other ideas? Looks OK to me. Are all the pins making a connection? Think of U24 and U8 as supports! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted December 7, 2018 Share Posted December 7, 2018 (edited) You need the machine pin low profile strips, http://atariage.com/forums/user/47264-davidmil/posted about them not long ago. I have run out but he mentions a source.... search out his post about it. Edited December 7, 2018 by _The Doctor__ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jowi Posted December 8, 2018 Share Posted December 8, 2018 What do i need the strips for? If i need more height to clear U24/U8 i can use the spare socket... If i have a socket that has lower profile then the original board socket, then i think the sophia board will touch U24/U8 again, even if they are soldered in place. Or do you mean something else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Robot Posted December 8, 2018 Share Posted December 8, 2018 The normal = too low The normal + the new = to high The normal + low profile = just right Said Goldilocks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jowi Posted December 8, 2018 Share Posted December 8, 2018 There, i fixed it desoldered the sockets for U24 and U8, soldered the chips back to the board, now the Sophia board fits perfectly, without being too high for the keyboard. It is still too high for the shield to fit, so i made some space in the shield for the GTIA. I do want the shield in place because the DVI connector is screwed to the back of the shield, and the top shield gives added strength to the connector, we don't want this to wobble. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkindig Posted December 8, 2018 Share Posted December 8, 2018 Hi, guys, I'm having this same problem, but on an 800XL. I don't believe this solution to be correct. I've tried this route. The new socket provided by Simius is as low-profile as you can get, with it being the exact same height as the pins are. I've looked at other low-profile sockets and none are shorter; at least it doesn't appear so. I'd be very interested to have DavidMil weigh in on this, or anyone, if they have a solution that doesn't require de-soldering a socket and resoldering the chip to the board to get the offending chip out of the way of the Sophia board. thanks Randy The normal = too l The normal + the new = to high The normal + low profile = just right Said Goldilocks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simius Posted December 8, 2018 Author Share Posted December 8, 2018 Ultra low profile socket - half of normal hight. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Like us on Facebook
Follow us on Twitter
AtariAge on Instagram
Watch us on YouTube
Chat on Discord
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.