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I just got a free 60in1 multicade cocktail, needs a little work


Tanooki
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I just got a free 60in1 multicade cocktail earlier ago this evening from that offerup site/app. It came lacking the stock 17-19" LCD that would have come with it new, not full innards to the coin mech to slot the coins, and that was what I knew was it.

 

I picked up a $7 LCD at goodwill and confirmed it does in fact work, mostly. The audio is OUT using the supplied speaker in the bottom of the cabinet, but the board has a phones jack right on there and that in fact does work excellently.

 

The board you can find for a little over $30 on Aliexpress and see what it is here: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Arcade-Machine-60-in-1-Board-Game-VGA-DVI-HDMI-Output-Jamma-Controle-Arcade-PCB-Coin/32600745657.html

 

I found a PDF of the manual for it as well, it allowed me to get it set to free play and to allow the LCD to pivot for cocktail mode too which was nice to locate.

 

 

Does anyone here have any basic experience with this kind of setup or just in general the wiring behind the power supply to the speaker? The jamma harness cable there on pin 10 there are a pair of white wires, they lead back to the speaker in the base so I know it isn't disconnected and the wire doesn't look jacked up or detached on that end. In the base I did see one of the 2 plugs was popped off the speaker but replacing it did nothing for it.

 

I did poke on google some and I saw others who had the issue some came to the conclusion that the speaker needs a 12v feed and it may not be getting that, and if that's all the problem is I'm not sure what I'm looking for to remedy that.

 

 

I've attached a few photos, the third one with the power supply you can make out the speaker, and the top lead there was detached when I opened it up.

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I run a arcade store and have built sold several hundred 60 in 1 machines

(its the most requested machine )

 

the game is just a standard jamma wired game

 

the boards are known to have sound problems but first step

would be to follow this vid to enter into the test menu

https://youtu.be/hMABHCZKNBM

go to the second to last page in the list and check the sound settings

if volume is turned up in the menu

next you need to try adjusting the orange phillips head pot on the board itself

 

if neither of those thing get you sound then check with a known good speaker

 

also confirm that you are getting 12 volts to the board

 

if all that checks out its a common failure for the boards to have the sound go out

 

 

if you are missing 12 volts then just dig up an old pc power supply

it will connect to the white 4 pin molex connector on the board

just be sure to disconnect the power coming from the power supply in the cabinet otherwise you will fry the board

 

follow this vid to make the pc power supply always stay on (I recommend cutting green and black wires and attaching them with solder and then heat wrap instead of jumpering with a paper clip )

 

https://youtu.be/u0OKmIuNtmI

Edited by discgolfer72
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Thanks for the tips. I'll check into it on break or after work if I can then. I do know how to get into the firmware/bios flipping the dip switch. I got that far to not notice any errors, and also to flip on cocktail mode and freeplay too last night.

 

I read it had sound problems with drop out over 12v, but i don't have a way to test that or, maybe I just don't know HOW to as I do have a multimeter around here somewhere. I know it will get audio out of the headphones jack so something is going but I can try and tweak that yellow pot and I'll re-check the audio volume too within that menu and make sure it's not 0'd out. I saw that both are also independent in my neo geo system but it uses a basic volume slider for that.

 

I don't think I have a spare power supply around, hopefully not an issue there.

 

I did look in the firmware and the volume was already at 50% there is a switch for +1/-1 and +10/-10 didn't seem to make a difference as thats I'm betting a decibel booster.

 

That philips pot, which direction do I go with that to amp it up?

Edited by Tanooki
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Thanks for the tips. I'll check into it on break or after work if I can then. I do know how to get into the firmware/bios flipping the dip switch. I got that far to not notice any errors, and also to flip on cocktail mode and freeplay too last night.

 

I read it had sound problems with drop out over 12v, but i don't have a way to test that or, maybe I just don't know HOW to as I do have a multimeter around here somewhere. I know it will get audio out of the headphones jack so something is going but I can try and tweak that yellow pot and I'll re-check the audio volume too within that menu and make sure it's not 0'd out. I saw that both are also independent in my neo geo system but it uses a basic volume slider for that.

 

I don't think I have a spare power supply around, hopefully not an issue there.

 

I did look in the firmware and the volume was already at 50% there is a switch for +1/-1 and +10/-10 didn't seem to make a difference as thats I'm betting a decibel booster.

 

That philips pot, which direction do I go with that to amp it up?

I think you turn the pot to the right for up

 

ill be in my store at 1 and can double check when I get in

 

 

to check voltages

where the harness connects to the game board

you will notice its cut out in one spot and has a long and short section of the edge connector

on the short section you will see wires in red black and yellow

to test voltages with harness attached to the board and power turned on

connect your black lead to a black wire on the harness

connect your red lead to the yellow wire on the harness

 

that's your 12 v the voltage can read 10-12v

 

to test your other voltages (5V)

meter from black to the red wire

this should not be higher than 5.5volts (usually around 5.2 is good )

 

 

if your getting sound out of the headphone jack I would lean towards a bad speaker or failure on the board itself (but still might be a voltage problem )

Edited by discgolfer72
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Alright problem solved, and yet not.

 

I got antsy and had a half hour to tinker. I don't know why I didn't see it before, but on the board, that black heat sink looking bit on the side has a little piece with 5 metal leads off it sitting over a square contact plate on the board just behind the phones jack. I got to poking and found the speaker in the system does work and it had to do with that. It's broken. 2-3 contacts were severed and the other 2 strongly compromised. My bending it around a little got the audio to come out really weak to really loud. But it came off in my hand now.

 

The piece screwed to the heat sink says UTC TDA20003L 82PFT8 on top of each other on the side.

 

As it is, I can buy another board, or if it's safe and not a fire hazard with that piece removed, I can go to a power strip, bypass using stereo speakers, and do that.

 

It's not voltage, it's not the wiring, it's a bad piece.

 

Can you tell me if it's a problem that is removed or a fire hazard? It seems to work fine without it and still audio out of the phones jack.

 

Otherwise I'd like to find a cheap (non-chinese wait a month) place to get a board for it and just swap it out as I know they're only like $40~.

Edited by Tanooki
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makes sense that's an important part in the audio circuit

 

as far as ordering a board you can get on e cheap from china and wait forever

or pay retail markup and buy one form a usa supplier

you can message this ebay seller

https://www.ebay.com/sch/nix28/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=

 

he is a great guy and actually had a website (it got hacked so he is trying to fid a new host)

his site was jammaparts.net

 

looks like amazon has them as well

https://www.amazon.com/60-1-jamma/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3A60%20in%201%20jamma

 

 

or you can re solder the broken connections on your pcb

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Yeah you know I looked up (not really familiar how though) the board trying variations of the etched numbers on that part. It's a UTC brand audio AMP. That's why it crapped out, and I guess it gets HOT so that's why it had the head sink on there.

 

I found this guy on ebay $44 shipped from arizona (about a $10 mark up if that.)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/60-in-1-ICade-multicade-arcade-multigame-JAMMA-pcb-board-USA-seller-fast-ship/112431171178?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Claims the only guy on ebay who sells stuff that isn't a liar out of China (all the others are that from many accounts all conveniently in Fremont, CA.)

 

I tried the resolder prep to get the pins evenly spaced and it was worse than I thought, one of them broke off at the very base of the chip so it's garbage. Best thing I can do now is either replace OR, get a power strip and use my altec lansings as long as the board is safe otherwise with that popped off.

 

Also found 2 people on craigslist with 19" computer wide screen desktop LCDs for sale, one is a really nice Dell for $35 that has a detachable stand and swivels into vertical mode. If the body of it would wedge into my space it would be perfect. Another was 2 1/2 weeks old post on an ACER that looked about as nice but we'll see who if any reply. Far better as I can mount them than buying a wells and gardener(or other) for around $180-200 shipped.

Edited by Tanooki
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lol the ones on amazon looked like they had one day prime shipping

 

just be sure that what ever monitor you use its a 4:3 not 16:9

I use these in my store (buy them by the pallet lol)

 

if you use a widescreen then the games will look stretched and look really bad

 

 

but really any 19 inch 4:3 monitor should work

 

unless they mounted it weird and you cant adjust the position

 

 

ps that vid on youtube is me lol

post-63035-0-23111600-1517338425_thumb.jpg

post-63035-0-97014600-1517338447_thumb.jpg

Edited by discgolfer72
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I wish I had thought of that. I found one, but it ended up being too big for my space so it's going back to goodwill. Shame though, just too wide for the space being 16:9, but has a set of speakers I could have just run a male male cable between to get audio that way with minimal impact.

 

I hit up a site with a table breakdown, and I did find what you said from knowledge 4:3 19" will make it as long as there's not a big border around the thing. I've got a 18.5" width max (frame+screen) space. View area with the ms pacman bezel overlay though is 12"x16.25" or close enough to that under and I can just fill the space with some black matte.

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I did a lot of work on it yesterday and got it mostly finished. As of now I just need 4 clips/square bit screws to bolt down the top glass, get a new key/rekey the lock, and I need to make a black interior bezel for the 19" LCD I picked up.

 

I ended up seeing a cheap 19" 4:3 ratio Dell 1908FP screen with the optional sound bar on ebay for $25, dude lived a few miles away too! I got near to door delivery instead of lame fees and shipping fees between us. I ended up doing a lot of work basically. The mounting board it had in there already with lines drawn, used that to drill out some holes, attached 2 (of 4) screw posts with random screws w/nuts-washers I had to the base. Then I measured it out and attached it to some wood boards attached inside perfectly centered to the ms pacman exterior bezel/overlay and secured it with screws. With that down I had no screws but 1 broken one to hold the top, ended up using some black drywall screws to secure that into place, same with the side access panel I had longer drywall black screws on that too. So now I have it all plugged in, buttoned up, and centered right, plus the convenient sound wheel on the soundbar is right at the bottom/right so I got that to a nice level for playing. Had to sand the thin black/gray metal with sanpaper by hand for awhile as it was rubbing on the plastic it runs up against making a horribly grating scraping sound to stop that. Thoroughly cleaned the tempered glass and interior tinted plastic too, and a minor spot of touch up paint along the top/edge barely seen as the bezel overlay covered it really.

 

It's pretty solid. I need to get the stuff I said to start and it's basically there. It's all functional outside of the busted off amp for the intended speaker, everything even the coin mechs. So far I just have $25 into the audio/visual, the $7 into the test screen I'm keeping for other stuff, and that's it. Whatever the rekey, screws, and poster board or matte I use for around the LCD will finish it off.

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no real need to re key it just go to home depot (or any hardware store ) and buy a new lock they are like 4$ each for the whole thing

its either a 5/8 or 7/8 barrel lock

(or do what I do for my home machines here , and just pull all the springs and tumblers out of the existing lock . and then use any key to open /close them )

great deal on that machine

and it looks like you actually got a well made cabinet looks like its block and screwed together

a lot of the cocktail (and uprights) sold by the bigger amusement stores (at least around here ) are only glued and brad nails at the joints

 

had do many come into my store for repair and if you try and pick them up by the panel the panel will just pull right off the brad nails

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I had no idea some were made so crappily, so I guess I did luck out even better that way. The only thing that had anything less than screws in it was the construction staples used for attaching the original shredded black paper bezel that was in there around the panel. I doubt this probably ever had an actual intended wells and gardener(or other make) panel in it if anything due to the already penciled in board + the size of the cut out paper. I think there was a repurposed VGA screen in there, probably a wide one though given how the paper was cut I think.

 

The only part I think that could really have been improved would have been the joystick area, as I said it's metal, but very thin though it will always pop back flat. On the left and right is another 1x1 inch screwed in piece of wood to the sides, but nothing horizontally along the back as a support. I think had something been put there and had some screws to secure it, the plate wouldn't buckle under pressure.

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