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SDrive-MAX ATX support


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32 minutes ago, toddtmw said:

Okay. I finally made this thing. I clipped the red wire and am using an external power supply. I am doing the simple install with only one device.

 

When I try to boot, it beeps once and then the blue "Ready" area says SIO:CMD Timeout.

 

I used an ohm meter the check continuity from the pin port on the Uno (stick a jumper wire in the hole that has a bare stripped end and the other side of the Ohm meter gently goes into the SIO connector). All five pins had very low impedance (before I snipped the red wire...).

 

I hooked a drive up and booted myDos and then unhooked the drive and hooked up the drive. When I try to run disk directory on drive one it just says there are zero sectors. Tried several different disk images.

 

Any ideas?

 

Thank you.

Photos of your work would be helpful, of course, as well as a list of the ATRs you're trying to access. 

 

As for usage generally, why don't you just load an ATR of MyDOS onto your SD card and boot directly from the SDrive-MAX? No need to swap devices that way. 

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OK so I had a play around with the SIO speeds again this morning. I had to enable the PBI and the SIO routines on the XEL and disable the hdd so I didn't have to pick a boot disk every time i powered on. Now I have a Profile 2 in my FJC bios settings for 'games mode' (Thanks for always being one step ahead of us Jon!). 

 

Once I did that, the SIO speed works as you'd expect. The only proviso is that you need to save the settings to keep them between reboots. 

 

Set the speed to the value you want, using the U / Ctrl+U keys and press Ctrl+W then U then Y to write the settings. 

 

Make sure when you do that you don't have any disks in the 4 slots or you will save those as well and they will persist even if you update the touchscreen interface and save it (one saves to eeprom, the other to a file on the sdrive.atr).

 

I also pressed CTRL+L to enable the display of long filenames and saved that with CTRL+W then L then Y 

 

Now loading sounds like a continuous farrrrrrt noise rather than beepbeepbeep as usual but everything loads in a fraction of the time!

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25 minutes ago, Mr Robot said:

SDrive Max case idea, my first time using Tinkercad, I need a lot of practice!

 51746445_Screenshot2019-07-01at15_23_53.jpg.554fd3b4cf0c19f98bfd2d02297cd287.jpg

 

3D model of the 1050 is not my work...

Tinkercad is pretty awesome. I have logged a lot of hours there in the past 18 months or so.


I was actually playing around with the 1050-ish model that everyone is using to try to make it look more like a drive. Starting with a drive model and then scaling and adapting os a pretty good approach.

 

One thing to consider is how you will break it up for printing. You need some sort of seam to allow it to print with less support and allow you to get it into the enclosure. (Usually top and then bottom as separate pieces.)

 

It would also be cool if the front part could be separated out so it could be printed in dark brown instead of white.

 

Then, I could use my silver p-touch tape to print the silver strip on a 1050 to make it look even more like a drive.

 

Let me know what progress you make, or if I can help at all...

 

-Todd

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19 hours ago, DrVenkman said:

Photos of your work would be helpful, of course, as well as a list of the ATRs you're trying to access. 

 

As for usage generally, why don't you just load an ATR of MyDOS onto your SD card and boot directly from the SDrive-MAX? No need to swap devices that way. 

I used some wire I had. It had all the same colors that Mr Robot used in his documentation except purple. I had white and black unused, so I used white for what he used as purple. Then I cut the red wire and powered via USB.

 

Here are the pictures. They are pretty big, so you should be able to zoom in. Let me know if you want me to take a picture of anything else.

Thanks!

 

IMG_2014.thumb.jpg.78a93ae9e84c93ac7e3e6b0ebfb58d2d.jpgIMG_2016.thumb.jpg.4598dfc8e4cc160b9dfceb354e61e450.jpgIMG_2015.thumb.jpg.208eef088f6b30be9a93469cc5d9ce8d.jpgIMG_2017.thumb.jpg.25a4325517b0b049413575b41a0ae453.jpgIMG_2018.thumb.jpg.aa972e36caf63aea844a9322daea67ae.jpg

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20 minutes ago, toddtmw said:

I used some wire I had. It had all the same colors that Mr Robot used in his documentation except purple. I had white and black unused, so I used white for what he used as purple. Then I cut the red wire and powered via USB.

 

Here are the pictures. They are pretty big, so you should be able to zoom in. Let me know if you want me to take a picture of anything else.

Thanks!

 

Can you give a shot of the top of the Uno you are using without the screen connected?  Try to orient it the same way you have for the backside, please

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I had to flip it, so you know... 

 

I kept the board oriented with the cable and the usb/power ports on the same side, and that means everything else is backward, but then I did angled shots to help orient everything.

 

Thanks!

-Todd

IMG_2021.thumb.jpg.fd74f3f32715ebaa73ad04dc85719c58.jpgIMG_2023.thumb.jpg.e61ebb0055b01e127c257cceed0b7073.jpgIMG_2022.thumb.jpg.97883cbb86483cad41cf19736fa2cc38.jpg

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Thanks.  I have never seen that version of the UNO, so needed to see the pins.  

 

The other thing to test would be if your pins inside of the SIO connector are making contact with the SIO pins on the computer.

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The wiring looks ok to me, you've got it working once or twice so that suggests it's correct too. Maybe an intermittent problem with the connector or maybe a flakey UNO, do you have a spare uno you could try?

 

 

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2 hours ago, MacRorie said:

Thanks.  I have never seen that version of the UNO, so needed to see the pins.  

 

The other thing to test would be if your pins inside of the SIO connector are making contact with the SIO pins on the computer.

You have my vote on this idea, the number of times it has turned out to be crimps, wired connection or the actual contact meeting the sio jack pin for 'problem' units of sio2whatever devices has been a greater than 90% issue. I've taken to using a couple of know good cables when they come my way. It almost always the fix. Thin wires, light/loose crimps (sometimes insulation in the way!), contacts touching in one insertion but not another with bend that are off ,loose, or not locked in (they move about in the 3d printed or even factory sio end) etc.

 

This results of this are a varied and frustrating mix of intermittent bouts of no connection, current starvation, noise, voltage fluctuation, and  so on.

 

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16 hours ago, toddtmw said:

Tinkercad is pretty awesome. I have logged a lot of hours there in the past 18 months or so.


I was actually playing around with the 1050-ish model that everyone is using to try to make it look more like a drive. Starting with a drive model and then scaling and adapting os a pretty good approach.

 

One thing to consider is how you will break it up for printing. You need some sort of seam to allow it to print with less support and allow you to get it into the enclosure. (Usually top and then bottom as separate pieces.)

 

It would also be cool if the front part could be separated out so it could be printed in dark brown instead of white.

 

Then, I could use my silver p-touch tape to print the silver strip on a 1050 to make it look even more like a drive.

 

Let me know what progress you make, or if I can help at all...

 

-Todd

Thank you for the offer of help, I'm almost certainly going to need it!. 

 

At the moment I'm trying to work out how to fill the 1050 design, its a hollow shell and I really want it to be solid. Once solid I want to remove the front panel (great minds think alike!) and split it in half along the original case join lines. 

 

I'm still learning _everything_ about doing this stuff, I don't even have a 3d printer yet so it's all purely education for me so far. Feel free to beat me to a final product, steal the idea etc.

 

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Todd,

I looked at your pictures and I don't like your soldering of the red wire to the Uno. It looks like the exposed red wire could short to the blue wire. Since you said the red wire is not connected to the SIO cable, I would unsolder the red wire and cut it to prevent a 5V to Ground short.

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18 hours ago, toddtmw said:

I had to flip it, so you know... 

 

I kept the board oriented with the cable and the usb/power ports on the same side, and that means everything else is backward, but then I did angled shots to help orient everything.

 

Thanks!

-Todd

IMG_2022.thumb.jpg.97883cbb86483cad41cf19736fa2cc38.jpg

I noticed you do not have a DIODE inline on the TX and are not using the #2 pin up on the socketed chip for the RX signal. Are you using this as your only connection via the SIO or is it daisy chained with other hardware? It will have conflicts with other hardware if you are attempting to use it within SIO daisy chain.

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Progress pics and errors...

Really struggling with the reverse space thing, I missed a bit on the placement of the support pegs, there is way too much distance between the outside of the case and the sdcard, no way to get the sdcard out, might need to give more room to the cable, I've seperated the front panel but currently have not split the case or found a way to join the parts back together.

 

27482148_Screenshot2019-07-03at10_31_07.jpg.6bb7ce12b0a6fd4a7c395ed15b41f3f2.jpg

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I can't easily print anything that big on my printer and for what it is going to hold, it doesn't seem like it needs to be that big. So, I am going to start with this:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1310706

 

Scale it to 85% and then go from there.

 

I'll post progress.

 

I get that you probably want it to sit in with all your other drives, but between the fact that I cannot print that big and the amount of material that will waste, I'm going to try a different approach...

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37 minutes ago, toddtmw said:

I get that you probably want it to sit in with all your other drives, but between the fact that I cannot print that big and the amount of material that will waste, I'm going to try a different approach...

Eh? mine is smaller than the existing XL SDM case! 

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Latest saga....

 

My current SD-Max is based on the socketed chip version, RX connected to bent up pin #2 on chip. Works flawlessly.

 

Just because, I decided to build another SD-Max using an UNO R3 with the chip on board and the v3 sub-board. 

 

Set-up using a P:R:Connection with WiModem232 and two 1050 drives all daisy chained. Everything seemed to be working fine and identical results as my other SD-Max until I decided to turn off the computer and tried to load different files on the SD-Max. The touchscreen is non-responsive.

 

After messing around for a bit, I found out that if I remove the USB power from the WiModem232, the SD-Max works as expected. So the problem is if I have my computer on, I have no issues with the current set-up. If I have the computer off, I have to unplug power to the WiModem232 to be able to use the SD-Max.

 

My other SD-Max does not have this issue. Thoughts?

 

Pics of new build...

 

***brown wire is not being used and is heat shrinked to protect from board

 

 

0703192239.jpg

0703192240.jpg

0703192239a.jpg

Edited by NISMOPC
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Sounds like the WiModem232 is stealing the bus, probably in the same way that the SDrive-MAX does without the isolation buffer chip circuit installed. I don't have one of those devices (I use a 15+ year old Lantronix ethernet/RS232 gateway device) so I'm not familiar with their electronics or how they're setup.

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5 minutes ago, DrVenkman said:

Sounds like the WiModem232 is stealing the bus, probably in the same way that the SDrive-MAX does without the isolation buffer chip circuit installed. I don't have one of those devices (I use a 15+ year old Lantronix ethernet/RS232 gateway device) so I'm not familiar with their electronics or how they're setup.

Seems accurate, but the sub board chip is supposed to take care of that as stated. So, not sure what is going on.

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