+arcadeshopper Posted March 28, 2018 Share Posted March 28, 2018 nice work in here guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COREi64 Posted March 28, 2018 Share Posted March 28, 2018 I'll address all of the comments here. In my situation, color does make a difference. Black, I end up paying $25 per kilo. It's a high quality filament that works well with my printers (believe me, there is a LOT of garbage filament out there). Other colors I've managed to get in large volumes for $6 per kilo. That should explain to you why certain colors (for me) are cheaper to print in. Before I go into the next comments, I'll say that anyone can design something that looks good on the screen... The reality of it is, if you're designing something to be printed on an FDM printer, the design has to play to the strengths of the printer you're using. Slight elevation changes, and small lettering can end up printing poorly and appear muddled. The same model would look entirely different from an injection molding perspective. Some of the suggestions made can be done in a multi-part print, but would not work well as a single object. So, that having been said... Now, keep in mind, these are my opinions, you can object or not... free country. The lettering and numbering of the rows... nope. FDM printing won't do that well enough in my view, and simply looks bad (and hard to read at best). You'd be better off creating a label to adhere to the model for that. Also, the preferred orientation of the p-box surface is flat on the print bed, so has to have a nice smooth surface to assemble on. I can produce a mirror like finish, and for this application, face down I think is the best. In that inverted position, printing lettering is not an option. Printing it right side up leaves you with a rough undesirable finish... and even more so when printed at an angle. Angling the p-box assembly plane is do-able. Having the assembly plane (that's the part I'm calling with all the holes in it) slightly elevated could be done only by introducing a perimeter shell that would slide over the p-box that you see in my photos. That could give you the lip (that on the original contains the letters and numbers). The base again, completely doable and could be made to look very nice. I have a nice dark grey that would look nice with the black top. So, that all having been said, I would say my basic design, angled similarly forward similar to the later P-Box, with an overall height of about 1.5". Additionally I could design a perimeter sleeve to make the assembly plane appear slightly elevated again like the later P-Box design also providing space for your proposed label/badge. Then to wrap it up, a nice grey base. I think the original footprint is a bit small, and with people likely wanting to incorporate arduino's, Pi's or other microcontroller boards, something a bit larger could be in order. Any tighter spacing with the holes could become problematic to print well. As we had previously discussed, something in the 8" wide by 6" deep would probably be a better fit for today's projects. Anyways, those are my thoughts. Thomas COREi64 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discgolfer72 Posted March 28, 2018 Share Posted March 28, 2018 (edited) well started on the base I am torturing myself using tinker cad (having to build everything with pre fab blocks ) guess if I wanted to really get crazy I could dust off auto cad I'm happy so far I will print again tonight (with my cheap 14$ pla ) and we will see how everything lines up and looks overall ps once I'm done this is going up for free on thingiverse just like my peb case this is just to waste time while I'm at my store with nothing to do , and help out the community if someone does need one printed all I ask is a couple of bucks for the material and shipping Edited March 28, 2018 by discgolfer72 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted March 28, 2018 Author Share Posted March 28, 2018 I'll address all of the comments here. If I understand you properly, it would be in three parts... a black main portion, a grey bottom and grey frame/ring around the top. That sounds damn nice to me! I like your re-sizing and enlarging plan as well. Your description sounds great, if it looks like your description, I'm a +1 on your #1 spot on the list right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted March 28, 2018 Author Share Posted March 28, 2018 well started on the base I'll need to see a photo first, but I plan to buy one of yours too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COREi64 Posted March 28, 2018 Share Posted March 28, 2018 Been giving it some thought today, and have an attack plan for tonight when I get back to designing it. Yes, it will be printed in three pieces. The center (I've been calling it the build plane), then the ring/frame and the base. The only part I'm unsure about is how far out the frame comes from the build plane. I know you asked for it to be a bit thicker on the front to accommodate a label, but was leaning towards having it wider in the front and narrower around the other three sides. Maybe half the thickness. I have a couple of variant/options in mind for this build. More info to follow as I test my ideas. I'll be working on this more tonight... Thomas COREi64 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted March 28, 2018 Author Share Posted March 28, 2018 Been giving it some thought today, and have an attack plan for tonight when I get back to designing it. Yes, it will be printed in three pieces. The center (I've been calling it the build plane), then the ring/frame and the base. The only part I'm unsure about is how far out the frame comes from the build plane. I know you asked for it to be a bit thicker on the front to accommodate a label, but was leaning towards having it wider in the front and narrower around the other three sides. Maybe half the thickness. I have a couple of variant/options in mind for this build. More info to follow as I test my ideas. I'll be working on this more tonight... Thomas COREi64 Hey, that sounds like it would look even better! Actually, since the ring is a separate part, it would not have to be indented for a label... just have a rectangular opening at that spot in the design (maybe beveled). Any label could be attached to the underside and covered with the outer frame/ring. It would still look the same, but people who cannot cut things perfect would have a lousy cut job covered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted March 28, 2018 Author Share Posted March 28, 2018 Since this thing appears to be 'color coordinated' with the TI console, maybe I better check out Vorticon's Blog when I get home tonight. He might already have the perfect gadget already designed to build on this thing. If not, maybe there's something in an old Micropendium or an old newsletter, or maybe someone here has already come up with something new... oh the possibilities! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+acadiel Posted March 29, 2018 Share Posted March 29, 2018 I also wonder if it's possible to still source those little spring connectors?Probably contact Elenco and see if they sell them as spare parts. https://www.elenco.com/replacement-parts/ https://www.elenco.com/product/130-in-1-electronics-playground/ Maxitronix 200-in-One Electronic Project Lab https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002AHR04/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OrdVAbD62M3C There’s some of their kits... you can ask them if they sell the springs for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+arcadeshopper Posted March 29, 2018 Share Posted March 29, 2018 cheaper https://www.bestbuy.com/site/elenco-130-in-1-electronic-playground/6187869.p?skuId=6187869&ref=212&loc=1&gclid=CLma2u7FkNoCFakRfwod-ykMvw&gclsrc=ds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COREi64 Posted March 29, 2018 Share Posted March 29, 2018 The revised large build plane just finished this morning. 8 hours and 4 minutes to print that. Yikes! All these little holes make for a very tedious print. As you can see, it's much larger than the original P-Box I printed in yellow. The new build plane measures 8, 3/16" x 6, 1/16". It's a little odd measurement because I do everything in metric, and had to contend with the hole spacing. You sure would be able to build some kinda project on that! Next (probably tonight) will be the collar then followed by the base. I put the original p-box I printed along side for context. Thomas COREi64 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NISMOPC Posted March 29, 2018 Share Posted March 29, 2018 cheaper https://www.bestbuy.com/site/elenco-130-in-1-electronic-playground/6187869.p?skuId=6187869&ref=212&loc=1&gclid=CLma2u7FkNoCFakRfwod-ykMvw&gclsrc=ds WOW! I had something very similar to that when i was a kid from Children's Palace. Only it was actually enclosed in a cardboard case, not the plastic. Was able to talk to "truckers" on their CB's lol. Illegal from what I recalled, but I had fun at the time... "Breaker 1-9! Breaker 1-9" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted March 30, 2018 Author Share Posted March 30, 2018 I like it so far! Very, very much so! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COREi64 Posted March 30, 2018 Share Posted March 30, 2018 Here's what's going onto the printer next. Hopefully I've got the tolerances correct. If I do, then the last part will be the foot. If not, adjust and re-print will be in order. Thomas COREi64 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COREi64 Posted March 30, 2018 Share Posted March 30, 2018 Here it is for real, and it fits! Woo hoo. Now for the foot... perhaps tonight's accomplishment. Getting close to the finishline... As it sits right now, it weighs in at 160 grams. Overall size is 9" wide, 7,1/4" deep, 1" tall in the front, 2.5" tall in the back. After that, I'll start adding the enhancements I have rolling around in my mind... Those are a surprise. COREi64 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discgolfer72 Posted March 31, 2018 Share Posted March 31, 2018 just need to tweak some of the lettering and it turned out pretty sexy sucks had the base half printed and tried to rush it with 5% fill and it failed so had to reprint the base ill give this one to my son for his class project next one after tweaking the letter ill print at a higher resolution mmmmm goooooolllldddddddd rally like the gold and luminous blue I just got from amazon for 12$ a roll 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted April 24, 2018 Author Share Posted April 24, 2018 Here it is for real, and it fits! Woo hoo. Now for the foot... perhaps tonight's accomplishment. Getting close to the finishline... As it sits right now, it weighs in at 160 grams. Overall size is 9" wide, 7,1/4" deep, 1" tall in the front, 2.5" tall in the back. After that, I'll start adding the enhancements I have rolling around in my mind... Those are a surprise. Still want one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Vorticon Posted April 24, 2018 Share Posted April 24, 2018 Just curious as to which 3D printers people here are using. There is so much choice out there these days! I personally started with the Printrbot Simple, essentially a plywood, zip ties and string contraption which surprisingly performed quite well but was extremely fiddly and needed constant adjustments https://youtu.be/OsUHmJ3jWsc then upgraded a couple of years ago to the Monoprice Select 3D as seen below, an all metal construction printer which works much better as long as the printing bed is carefully leveled and the room temperature is stable with no drafts. And it was under $300 which I thought was pretty good. When I eventually upgrade again, a self-leveling bed and a printer enclosure will be high on the list. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+arcadeshopper Posted April 25, 2018 Share Posted April 25, 2018 I bought a cheap chinese delta.. on the right in the photo.. I really liked the idea of the delta with it's tall print volume etc.. It performed "ok" but was very inaccurate and needs to be calibrated a lot..the auto-level doesnt work as described as it is a clunky microswitch lever setup.. all the support seems to melt to the print so its near impossible to get off without damaging it. It had no real parts fan so I had a fan cowl printed for that but it never really did the job.. and it was CHEAP so you get what you pay for.. i had to use tape and hairspray and all sorts of tricks to get prints to stick to the aluminium printbed also it has a "dual printhead" which is I guess chinese for "one print head and one that you can never get to align properly" never buy a dual printhead printer I just got the printer on the left a Prusa MK2 used from a buddy for just a little more than I paid for the chinese one new. It is SO MUCH BETTER auto level actually works, print quality is crazy good and the support is super easy to peal off. the printbed is a special material that requires nothing but a cleaning to get PLA parts to adhere to it.. I'm going to buy a mk3 for my next printer I think. These are the ones that the chinese knockoffs are knocking off. Why settle for the copy.. here;s the finalgrom cart on my old printer: and the new printer: 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted May 4, 2018 Author Share Posted May 4, 2018 It's obvious that my TIPI want's it's own 3D printed case to enclose everything, when it's just sitting there doing nothing, it's looking at me and saying.... TIPI Ready (for a 3D printed case) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COREi64 Posted May 5, 2018 Share Posted May 5, 2018 (edited) How about this: Thomas COREi64 Edited May 5, 2018 by COREi64 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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