Jump to content
IGNORED

Atari 1050 in kinda rough shape


Recommended Posts

Hey all, started a new topic bc this seems a little different. I got a 1050 drive in the mail from a friend recently, but no power supply, and its roughed up a bit. I wonder if there is any hope for it. Does anyone here sorta specialize in these drives that I could sponge some info from? Many thanks in advance for any input. Im still new here. Id love to get this drive sorted and make it a part of a growing collection.

 

NKA

post-63432-0-30376400-1522809195_thumb.jpg

post-63432-0-69380100-1522809224_thumb.jpg

post-63432-0-14373500-1522809256_thumb.jpg

post-63432-0-23127500-1522809326_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I see mostly a broken power switch. Best Electronics has a new one, and most likely anything else you need. Use the evil Goo to search Atari Best Electronics and you will find them.

The Web page is a mess, that'sounds a known fact. Brad Koda (the owner) is a great guy. I have met him personally. One thing to remember is that Brad is a busy man and he can get annoyed by repeated stupid questions and such.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks like it suffered some shipping damage.

 

I had one that was in worse shape. Take it apart and see how bad it is. I bet the board is loose and some of the mounting posts are busted. I had one in worse condition that I fixed using M.E.K. and melted it back together.

 

Before

 

post-1274-0-28570900-1522810119.jpg

 

 

After

 

post-1274-0-84085500-1522810152.jpg

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I see mostly a broken power switch. Best Electronics has a new one, and most likely anything else you need. Use the evil Goo to search Atari Best Electronics and you will find them.

The Web page is a mess, that'sounds a known fact. Brad Koda (the owner) is a great guy. I have met him personally. One thing to remember is that Brad is a busy man and he can get annoyed by repeated stupid questions and such.

 

It's possible the switch is broken but it looks to me like the entire PCB got moved out of place and it's not lining up anymore.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The power switch just looks lifted from the pcb, so the switch itself may be ok with some re-soldering... Maybe a few jumper wires if the traces were damaged.

 

The shifting of the main PCB you note may because of the 2 little plastic clips on the front of the bottom cover might have broken away. Something can probably be glued or screwed in place to stabilize the board.

 

Maybe post a picture of the inside of the bottom case, any anything else inside that looks out of place.

Edited by Nezgar
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow thank you both for the replies and nice work ST! I’ve got in in the Jansport ready to take it down to the shop tomorrow and I’ll keep updating. One thing I’m mostly curious about is getting power to this unit. I’ve read a bit about it but any suggestions?

Probably hard to find a power supply with the requirements these drives need just laying around anymore these days. Might have to order one.

 

9V AC 31VA

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Finding replacement power supplies for the 1050 and 810 that are rated with enough amperage is surprisingly tough. 1000ma is common, but the drive definitely needs at least 2000ma.

 

I found a local distributor here in Saskatchewan Canada that carries these 9vac 3300ma supplies that work great with the drives once I've replaced the 2.1mm barrel connector with a 2.5mm.

 

http://www.be-electronics.com/product_p/rp093aa3.htm

 

I'm guessing they don't ship to US, but I've considered buying a number of them to modify and resell as tested working for 810's and 1050's.......

 

Check with any local to you electronics shops and see if they may have something similar.

 

Edit: yes they do ship to US haha.. $15 cad ground though, not very economical.

Edited by Nezgar
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can recommend using a 9v AC SNES / NES power supply for the 1050 drive although some people have reported issues

Also, a guy on UK ebay sells new power switches for cheap but you have to bend the 3x pins from vertical to horizontal formation (they are designed for the computers but are bend-able for drive use)

If you can, post some pics of it's innards so we can get to the nitty-gritty :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can recommend using a 9v AC SNES / NES power supply for the 1050 drive although some people have reported issues

 

The north america SNES power supply is 10VAC but only 850mA - not nearly enough for a 1050 to drive the motor. Some brief google image searches i saw a UK supply rated at 2A, is that what you have?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, I think I have good news to report! Upon opening the drive, I really dont see much wrong with it. The power switch had been popped off the board at the two front solder points, took care of that. Lifting up the drive from the metal pin and rubber washer cradle, all seems to be intact and not nasty. I was kinda surprised that the belt was still in perfect shape. Had a replacement for it standing by but Ill just throw it in the drawer for now I guess. Now just gonna blow this sucker out and clean the head and lube the rails, and work on hunting down a PSU!

post-63432-0-47582200-1522940700_thumb.jpeg

post-63432-0-26303400-1522940948_thumb.jpeg

post-63432-0-22657200-1522941025_thumb.jpeg

post-63432-0-13276000-1522941344_thumb.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

The north america SNES power supply is 10VAC but only 850mA - not nearly enough for a 1050 to drive the motor. Some brief google image searches i saw a UK supply rated at 2A, is that what you have?

Hi,

My SNES PSU is rated at 1.3A but it still seems to power the 1050 ok

Thanks for highlighting the issue, I never knew until now :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@NewKillerAmerica - nice pictures of the opened drive, and repaired switch. Your tandon mech and mainboard look immaculate and clean. Of acedemic interest you can look inside that metal shield on the mainboard and see if you have a mask ROM or eprom firmware. If it's an eprom (with jumpers 2/4 instead of 1/3) it's a solderless upgrade to us doubler.

 

S little 3-in-1 oil on the head rails is preferable to grease, and if the rotation of the top spindle seems stiff, a little 3-in-1 on that too to free up the bearings inside.

 

To lube the top spinner, I losen up some of the other screws around the top area to allow it to be lifted out, then use needle nose pliers to carefully remove the top small metal clamp piece. Then the top and spring come off allowing easy access to the top of the spinner. 5 drops or so into the movement seam. Careful to wipe any excess as you don't want it on the plastic pieces that touch the disks.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

http://www.best-electronics-ca.com/power%20guide.htm

 

Third one down on the left side of the page.

 

From B&C's page: "

PRA001   POWER 800/810/1050/XF551/1200XL 20.00 400/850/1010 and others"
http://www.myatari.com/atarixlh.txt

 

B&C: (530) 295-9270

 

Best: (408) 278-1070 · (1:30 - 5 PM, PST, M - F)

Thanks man! Ill be calling them Monday morning!

 

How did you fix the power switch? Resolder it?

Yep, just held it together lightly with vice grips and reflowed the solder. Added some too.

 

@NewKillerAmerica - nice pictures of the opened drive, and repaired switch. Your tandon mech and mainboard look immaculate and clean. Of acedemic interest you can look inside that metal shield on the mainboard and see if you have a mask ROM or eprom firmware. If it's an eprom (with jumpers 2/4 instead of 1/3) it's a solderless upgrade to us doubler.

 

S little 3-in-1 oil on the head rails is preferable to grease, and if the rotation of the top spindle seems stiff, a little 3-in-1 on that too to free up the bearings inside.

 

To lube the top spinner, I losen up some of the other screws around the top area to allow it to be lifted out, then use needle nose pliers to carefully remove the top small metal clamp piece. Then the top and spring come off allowing easy access to the top of the spinner. 5 drops or so into the movement seam. Careful to wipe any excess as you don't want it on the plastic pieces that touch the disks.

Very cool, Ill grab some 3-in-1. Ill have a look for the mask rom / eprom. Thanks all!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...