+kheller2 Posted July 7, 2018 Share Posted July 7, 2018 All this 1050 repair makes me think would should develop a video series on fixing these things. hmmm 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keneg Posted July 7, 2018 Author Share Posted July 7, 2018 That would be great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillC Posted July 7, 2018 Share Posted July 7, 2018 atari does not use the index hole The 810/1050 don't use the index hole, but I believe the XF551 does. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keneg Posted July 7, 2018 Author Share Posted July 7, 2018 I decided to leave the drive on for several hours and re-test. The drive won’t initialize when power cycled and just gives error 138, which it think is drive not ready. Shut off for several hours and back to error 173. The back part of the shield seemed warmer than the rest when it had been on for hours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrbrevin Posted July 8, 2018 Share Posted July 8, 2018 the 5v and 12v voltage regulators use the metal shielding to lose excess heat, it is a good sign they are working! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keneg Posted July 8, 2018 Author Share Posted July 8, 2018 the 5v and 12v voltage regulators use the metal shielding to lose excess heat, it is a good sign they are working! I easn’t clear. I was referring to the RF shield that covers the middle of the PCB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1050 Posted July 8, 2018 Share Posted July 8, 2018 Post 32 and still no DOS report. Looking like you'll be a year before we can beat enough info out of you to provide any help at all. Error numbers come from the DOS installed so it's important to know the DOS used. Especially useful for odd error numbers like 174 first reported. Error 138 is Device Does Not Respond, that means DOS can't see it, nor can the OS. First thing to do is buy some DeOxit contact cleaner and wet the drive select switches from the side with the cover off. Then work both of them at least twenty times while still wet. Let it dry and work them again twenty times. Now select them for drive one position. Any Joy? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keneg Posted July 8, 2018 Author Share Posted July 8, 2018 (edited) LOL, I actually did exactly what you are suggesting yesterday and used the diagnostics disk to verify that they work. I think early on I was using different DOS versions. The latest information I have been posting used DOS 2.5. I forgot to mention that when the drive was really warmed up, the drive light would come on when powered up, the head would seek, the light would go out, then the sequence would repeat until the drive was powered off. I think I read somewhere that this is an indication of which chip is bad. I am sorry if Im not giving enough information, I am new to this. If someone wants to give me a list of questions, I will do my best to answer them. Edited July 8, 2018 by Keneg 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1050 Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 Glad you took the roughing up as well as you did, no harm no foul, I now know what DOS is being used, thanks. Ok, the repeating busy light is supposed to be a bad 6532 RIOT chip but often they are changed out and the symptom remains. Best if you had a working donor to supply the 6532, but they are on eBay as R6532P. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keneg Posted July 9, 2018 Author Share Posted July 9, 2018 Ok, they are only available from China, so it might take a while to arrive, but I ordered one. It was cheap, so worth a try. Thanks for your patience and help. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Nezgar Posted July 13, 2018 Share Posted July 13, 2018 Ok, they are only available from China They are also available from Best Electronics, $8.00 http://www.best-electronics-ca.com/custom-i.htm and B&C Computervisions, $5.00 http://www.myatari.com/atarixlh.txt 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keneg Posted July 13, 2018 Author Share Posted July 13, 2018 Thanks, I am trying to get some things from Best Electronics. Brad is slow to answer emails though. I received another 1050 today. I gives the exact same message, error 173, when trying to format a disk. It also gives the same results for diagnostics. Fail motor tests and track zero. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted July 13, 2018 Share Posted July 13, 2018 different cord? different computer...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Nezgar Posted July 13, 2018 Share Posted July 13, 2018 (edited) Hey Keneg, I don't think you've mentioned here yet what type of power supply you're using on the drives, or if you've yet measured the 3 different power rails, with and without load (IE with disk spinning): 9VAC, 5VDC, and 12VDC Your symptoms almost sounds like that of an underpowered drive I tried to run off of a 1Amp 9VAC supply. That one had enough for the drive to POST and respond to SIO, but not enough to operate when spinning the disk. Edited July 13, 2018 by Nezgar 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrbrevin Posted July 13, 2018 Share Posted July 13, 2018 Thanks, I am trying to get some things from Best Electronics. Brad is slow to answer emails though. I received another 1050 today. I gives the exact same message, error 173, when trying to format a disk. It also gives the same results for diagnostics. Fail motor tests and track zero. a second device is very helpful for solving PCB problems. you can compare component values when powered and not, compare voltages at various test points, swap ICs over Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keneg Posted July 13, 2018 Author Share Posted July 13, 2018 Hey Keneg, I don't think you've mentioned here yet what type of power supply you're using on the drives, or if you've yet measured the 3 different power rails, with and without load (IE with disk spinning): 9VAC, 5VDC, and 12VDC Your symptoms almost sounds like that of an underpowered drive I tried to run off of a 1Amp 9VAC supply. That one had enough for the drive to POST and respond to SIO, but not enough to operate when spinning the disk. I just checked my power supply. It is 1amp 9VAC supply I bought off eBay that was listed as being for several Atari devices, including the 1050. What do I need to make sure I have enough power? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keneg Posted July 13, 2018 Author Share Posted July 13, 2018 a second device is very helpful for solving PCB problems. you can compare component values when powered and not, compare voltages at various test points, swap ICs over I was hoping that, even if it didn’t work, it would have a different problem so I could swap things to troubleshoot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Nezgar Posted July 13, 2018 Share Posted July 13, 2018 Aha! Stock Atari supplies are about 3 amps (31VA). 1A is definitely insufficient. Others on the forums have reported success with 2A. I've seen those ebay auctions for generic 9VAC supplies, the pictures have the ratings blurred out, and I emailed the seller asking the rating and they replied 1Amp, to which I replied they should take the 1050 off their listing description... which of course didn't happen... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keneg Posted July 14, 2018 Author Share Posted July 14, 2018 Aha! Stock Atari supplies are about 3 amps (31VA). 1A is definitely insufficient. Others on the forums have reported success with 2A. I've seen those ebay auctions for generic 9VAC supplies, the pictures have the ratings blurred out, and I emailed the seller asking the rating and they replied 1Amp, to which I replied they should take the 1050 off their listing description... which of course didn't happen... Yes, I am quite upset that the item I bought is likely why my drives aren’t working. I have ordered an original 3.7 amp supply. Cost a lot more and will take a while to arrive from California, but then I will know that is right. It seems to me that you could build one with a transformer and the right plug. Has anyone done that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted July 14, 2018 Share Posted July 14, 2018 be aware that you equipment has essentially been run in 'brown-out' conditions... this destroys electronics... If the proper supply gets you up and running count your blessings! always good to check the cords/power blocks... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keneg Posted July 14, 2018 Author Share Posted July 14, 2018 be aware that you equipment has essentially been run in 'brown-out' conditions... this destroys electronics... If the proper supply gets you up and running count your blessings! always good to check the cords/power blocks... I only ran this one for a few minutes, so I doubt I did any damage. Cross my fingers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle22 Posted July 14, 2018 Share Posted July 14, 2018 The power supply will work fine on an 850 interface, providing you didn't burn out the fuse already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Nezgar Posted July 14, 2018 Share Posted July 14, 2018 Sourcing 9VAC supplies with greater than 1A has come up a couple times in the forums. Ask around your local electronics stores if they carry a 9V AC supply of 2A or greater. Here is a prior thread where I found one this way: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/277382-atari-1050-in-kinda-rough-shape/?p=4000363 Only problem is it came with a 2.1mm barrel connector, and 1050 needs a 2.5mm, so I replaced the end on the cable. Then I discovered adapters for such a situation: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/152348446057 Apparently a 1.3A SNES PSU also works. (has got to be borderline sufficient imho) But then again, just getting an original one is the least time consuming and brain consuming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrbrevin Posted July 14, 2018 Share Posted July 14, 2018 SNES PSU works fine if you do the 1050 green mod - where you swap out the 78xx voltage regulators for switching types (also known as 'buck converters') http://www.mathyvannisselroy.nl/Atari%201050%20goes%20green.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keneg Posted July 14, 2018 Author Share Posted July 14, 2018 Thanks for the suggestions. I have two originals ordered. Learned my lessons. 1. Don’t trust that the eBay seller is right about all of the devices his listing shows the item working with. 2. Check the power requirements of the device and make sure the power supply meets them BEFORE plugging it in and trying it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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