Jump to content
IGNORED

My homemade 5200 controller


smbaker
 Share

Recommended Posts

On 2/15/2021 at 10:31 AM, ajacocks said:

Out of curiosity, do folks prefer the left-side thumb stick layout? If so, I can mirror this to that layout, and share that, too.

 

I might also make the change that @amiman99 suggested, and extend the retaining tabs around most of the edges of the shell.

 

- Alex

So when I mirrored the thumb stick hole and fire buttons the fire buttons are not far enough over to the right.  Do you have any suggestions on how to move this holes?  Did you make an .stl for a case to have the thumbstick on the left?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 5/5/2021 at 5:42 PM, Aaron Spinks said:

So when I mirrored the thumb stick hole and fire buttons the fire buttons are not far enough over to the right.  Do you have any suggestions on how to move this holes?  Did you make an .stl for a case to have the thumbstick on the left?

I think I released both left and right versions of the case. Check previous posts.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 5/12/2021 at 5:40 PM, amiman99 said:

I think I released both left and right versions of the case. Check previous posts.

 

I didn't find any but no worries.  I spent a few days teaching myself fusion 360 and figured it out.  Made a few of my own tweaks to it as well. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...
  • 2 months later...

Really nice...thanks for sharing this, everything much more playable so far. Programming the ATTINY85 with the USBasp just as as Dr. Venkman laid out earlier in the thread. The most time consuming was the cable, I used a NeoGeo extension and put the 15 pin DB on....had to go back in once to fix a short, was lucky it was on the end. Also, as mentioned earlier in the thread, the 0.22 uF capacitors are under the start button. Couple of amateur mistakes with the caps vs schematics but got to problem solve. Now for a housing.

SB5200.thumb.jpg.d2a71776cf457c6fb89a2f53df1d4977.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

Hello more experienced folks. I finally built up my SMBaker analog controller. The buttons work but the stick values don't reach all the way up to the >100 level that they should. In fact, they max out at 20 on both axes.

 

Do these jumper settings look correct?

 

jumper-check.thumb.jpg.2af98c1f898a8d7446325ccbaea77648.jpg

 

I also tried the left 2 jumpers vertical instead of horizontal but that made no difference. Any tips would be appreciated!  

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here are my values with Pete's Diagnostics. 

(I had to use a regular Atari controller to navigate the menu and launch Pete's, then I plugged in the SMBaker to get these values.)

 

directions.thumb.jpg.39fef9aa81e5b0854ac85833e5edd255.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, xefned said:

Hello more experienced folks. I finally built up my SMBaker analog controller. The buttons work but the stick values don't reach all the way up to the >100 level that they should. In fact, they max out at 20 on both axes.

 

Do these jumper settings look correct?

 

jumper-check.thumb.jpg.2af98c1f898a8d7446325ccbaea77648.jpg

 

I also tried the left 2 jumpers vertical instead of horizontal but that made no difference. Any tips would be appreciated!  

 

@DrVenkman And I have made over 100 of these between the two of us and have not seen this failure mode to my recollection.  We did find in one batch of the digital pots that something around 20% of them were out of spec, but I don’t think the values were this low and it was usually just one axis not both. 
 

The jumpers look correct to me.
 

Look for bridged and/or cold solder joints on the stick, microcontroller, and digital pot pads. I think the resistors and caps might also be an issue but both would have to have the same issue so it seems less likely. 
 

Finally, how sure are you that the firmware was successfully flashed?

Edited by MakerMatrix
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, MakerMatrix said:

Finally, how sure are you that the firmware was successfully flashed?

 

My suspicion is that I probably didn't program the chip correctly, because everything else appears correct. No cold joints, correct cap values, etc.

 

I used the Tiny AVR Programmer from SparkFun, and the instructions that Dr. Venkman posted in this thread. It *appeared* to work and didn't give me any errors, but that seems to be the most likely culprit.

 

I ordered a TL866 yesterday just because the ATTiny is my prime suspect and I have very little experience with such things. Once it arrives (from China) I'll give it another go. Hopefully I can erase this one and re-flash it. Thanks for chiming in!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Danjovic said:

Check the timing capacitor values.

Checked, and double-checked! Thanks for that suggestion.

 

There was some talk in this thread about some digital pot IC's being bad. Could that problem cause the values to read down in the 1 - 20 range?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can take out the MCP42100 from its socket and insert a 100k resistor between pins 9 and 10 and check the X axis reading (pins 5 and 6 for Y axis)

 

If the reading reaches the maximum value then you either have a problem with your digipots or with the code driving it. On the other hand, if the value remains low, triple check the capacitors (measure them if possible). Check also the voltage value at pin 9 of the db-15 connector (potC).

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Danjovic said:

You can take out the MCP42100 from its socket and insert a 100k resistor between pins 9 and 10 and check the X axis reading (pins 5 and 6 for Y axis)

 

If the reading reaches the maximum value then you either have a problem with your digipots or with the code driving it. On the other hand, if the value remains low, triple check the capacitors (measure them if possible). Check also the voltage value at pin 9 of the db-15 connector (potC).

 

 

Wow, thanks for all these helpful tips! This forum rocks, as do you my friend. I'm determined to conquer this so the more things I can try the better.

 

My pots measure 4.5k in circuit. That seems like it could point to a problem. (Unless that's normal somehow?)

 

Interestingly, the text on the side is completely illegible, which is very different from the picture at SparkFun of the same model #. (Com-09032.)

 

 

illeg.thumb.jpg.3848df6a85fe4a9fba728ced53d9253c.jpg

I got this one from Mouser.

 

EDIT: Measured out of circuit: 8.8k on the horizontal, 9.2k on the vertical. So that's probably not the problem.   

 

I also checked continuity on the jumpers. Removed the 220nF caps, measured them out of circuit. Replaced them with ceramic 220nF. (I had polyesters in there before.)

Also tried a different Digital Pot IC and a different ATTiny85 programmed on the same day.

 

Next: I'll try re-programming the ATTiny with a different programmer since I used a non-standard/non-approved one.

 

 

 

Edited by xefned
pot measurements added.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)
On 4/24/2022 at 9:53 PM, Danjovic said:

 

If the reading reaches the maximum value then you either have a problem with your digipots or with the code driving it. On the other hand, if the value remains low, triple check the capacitors (measure them if possible). Check also the voltage value at pin 9 of the db-15 connector (potC).

 

Thank you friend. Your last sentence led to my breakthrough moment. ”Am I getting 5v to this thing?” Nope.

 

Here's the cable I built. Some of you might spot the error immediately; contact #12 is not pinned on the Atari cable—the pin that carries the voltage! 

 

IMG_4098.thumb.JPG.92a234522ed1f2a008b1119b1bb58667.JPG

 

So I re-soldered it with an Alibaba NeoGeo cable and everything works perfectly now!

 

Thank you all. Hopefully this warning will be helpful to others.

 

Edited by xefned
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...