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Conion C-100F Stereo Boombox- Restoration, Tips-advice?


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Ok so I picked this Conion C-100F last week for $70. I was originally going to pay $200 for it as the guy said it worked perfectly. I got there and all of the sudden one of the top light bars did not work. Then the bottom tray did not push in any stay. Then I opened the battery cover to find corroded batteries in the back. Then to top it off I couldn't even eject the tape deck and pressing play does not even turn the spindles. I ended up telling the guy i would give him $60 and he said $70 so I bit. I think fully restored this thing will be worth $1000+

 

On a bright side the stereo and speakers work amazing. The stereo goes to level 100 but I have yet to take it to level 10, just getting at 8 is insanely loud.

 

I have been researching a bit on restoring these and I found one video of a guy using a SBM 10.0 belt for one of the tape decks. Which I believe to be from this site, I will likely contact them for appropriate belts.

https://www.studiosoundelectronics.com/belts.htm

 

I imagine when I open this thing it will need some major cleaning. I have read different things about cleaning the entire pcb's. What do you guys think should be used to spray the entire PCB? I have deoxit but not sure that is proper for this kind of thing.

 

I am as well considering doing a full swap on all capacitors. While most of the casing appears to be plastic there is quite a bit of chrome I will have to see if I can shine that up.

 

Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

 

post-25078-0-65200300-1534293535_thumb.jpg

 

 

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Spraying a whole PCB with Deoxit? Not a good thing, it will migrate and flow everywhere you don't want to go, like plastics and belts and even in cracks and crevices and eventually OUTSIDE the box itself.

 

Deoxit is meant for spot cleaning/protecting/lubing contacts.

 

You may simply want to go over the board with swabs or qtips and alcohol. Unless a bulk wash is warranted, somehow?? Can't say without seeing the board itself.

Edited by Keatah

Yeah I didn't think deoxit would be good to spray an entire board, it just doesn't dry fast. I use it for controller ports and cleaning switches and such. I have been reading about people using a contact cleaner that dries fast to spray down entire pcb's. I view images of cleaned pcb's and just can't imagine they get pcb's from so dirty to so clean using just q-tips and alcohol.

 

Here is a video I ran across about a guy spraying down a video card.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fh4S_D0TpaE

 

 

Then you have this one using "bright cleaner"? @6:45

 

I do find it funny afterwards he says the cleaner is slightly corrosive and using alcohol wipes will get it off.

 

I think I will just stick w/alcohol lol.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8mfykKXqDww&t=406s

 

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I view images of cleaned pcb's and just can't imagine they get pcb's from so dirty to so clean using just q-tips and alcohol.

 

If you take the time, it works fine to use a Q-Tip. If you want faster "bulk" cleaning a damp wide paintbrush and air compressors works.

 

If you're doing something like a television set board that sat near a CRT and electrostatically attracted the fine dust, then you need a working fluid like soap and water - and you may want to remove the transformers and larger un-sealed inductors because they act like sponges and it takes a while for the water to evaporate from inside. Or seal them temporarily.

 

If I was to clean a vintage pocket radio I might carefully seal off the variable capacitor and volume pot with plastic wrap and silicon sealant, as well as the transformer and metal-can inductors. Do the dishwasher, then peel off the seals. A boom box board would simply be larger version of that.

 

I don't like to use anything that leaves any residue behind. That's just asking to attract more dirt faster, again.

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