Atari 5200 Playstation 2 Adapter

[tripletopper]

 

No. The 5200 reads both axes independently of one another. So it's up the game what "NE" even means. POKEY will read the Y Axis pot at 100% and the X Axis pot at 100% and the game code then does whatever it wants with those inputs.

Yes I understand there's an independent X and Y, and if it were not for the physical circle restrictor, the X can be actuated 100% and the y can be actuated 100% together, and the radius would be 141% using x,y to r,A conversions.

 

Also my previous post mentions a clever way of using an 80% minimum actuation to turn an analog stick into a 4-way. But the Competition Pro ruins it with simultaneous 100% x and 100%y

[smbaker]

I would expect if we wanted to do this in software, we could. For example, measure the length of the vector, cap it at 100%, and then recompute the X and Y values.

 

It sounds like an interesting proposition. I too have read that lack of the restrictor could cause issues in some games.

 

Scott

[tripletopper]

I was arguing this point on the Astrocade ICBM controller. I didn't know whether the orgiginal controller, whihc ws an analog controller with an X and Y with 3 buttons, had centering resistance or not, and whether it had a circular restrictor, like the 5200, or whether it had a square restrictor, like an Apple iie controller. I said those tings matter. They asked me what I would want in the cotnroller, I said since it was originally made for ICBM, that the way the designers of the controllers designed it, and the game programmers made it, that's the way it should be.

 

Since I've seen a Atari 5200 controller, I know what its normal nature is like. But the ICBM controller was only in a prototype stage. And their controller was used only for that game. I showed a consequence of if it had an originally square resistor and you try to retrofit it with a circular resistor controller.

 

Read these original questions and answers searching ICBM on Bally Alley Yahoo Group. I discussed certain issues itf it was desgined one way, and later implemented another. I have an illustrated example of not reaching reaching a city as an unintended consequence of the original design being a square restrictor, then retrofitting a circular restrictor.

 

I know of the consequences of adding auto-center in games which were designed not to auto-center. Xbox One Warlords doesn't feel right in absolute mode dialing a position, just like a paddle, and fighting centering resistance. it's really tiring. That's why only certain games benefit from auto-centering on the 5200 controller, and certain other games get hindered bad.

 

Also using Pythagorean theorem and keeping X and Y equal, 70.7 % is the level the cardinals should be at when the diagonal is pressed and the desired radius is 100%: (.707 ^ 2) + (.707^2) = 2* (.499849) =.999698 and taking the square root of that is = .999849 which on a 8 bit per axis system is so close to 1.00 that it virtually is 1.00

Edited October 29, 2018 by tripletopper

[rayik]

I've followed DrVenkman's instructions here on programming: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/281530-my-homemade-5200-controller/?p=4130360

 

However the Tiny85 is not being detected. Do I need to have Scott's board powered by the Atari 5200 when trying to flash?

[tripletopper]

I would expect if we wanted to do this in software, we could. For example, measure the length of the vector, cap it at 100%, and then recompute the X and Y values.

 

It sounds like an interesting proposition. I too have read that lack of the restrictor could cause issues in some games.

 

Scott

 

It would mainly matter in D-Pad mode.

 

In analog Mode, the Playstaiton analog has a natural circular gate, which maps one-to-one with an analog 5200 controller with THEIR physical restrictor.

 

With 8 ways, all you have to do is compute Abs(x)=Abs(y) AND (X^2)+(Y^2)=R^2. The magic number as I shown in my previous post is +- 70.7% assuming -100%<=x<=+100% AND -100%<=y<=+100%. I don't know how the 5200 and PS2 map THEIR analogs, but this concept is used. There are no other angles than the 45 degree diagonals. This is not an Intellivision we're talking about.

 

By the way, why PS2? Why not PS1 Dual Shock 1? The only difference is the PS2 has pressure based analog d-pad, face buttons, and shoulder buttons. I don't know if the pressure sensitive feature of the PS2 will be used in any way. If that's not the case, then the PS1 Dual Shock 1 is all that's necessary. Right?

[tripletopper]

What exactly is the button mapping? What PS button equals bottom, and what PS button equals top. Would the other buttons work as keypad buttons for certain games?

 

I would prefer X= Bottom, and O=Top. (assuming the bottom button is considered main fire)

 

A previous post of mine has a full mapping of what I would want with 4 of the buttons. Unless someone can see a reason why 1,2,3, and 0 are not the main 4 keypad buttons to program in, I'd like to hear an argument for different numbers. By there way, there are 2 extra buttons. I guess one main button equals pause (in my setup, either L2 or L1), start equals start and select equals reset.

 

I've got room for one other number. Again if someone can think of an argument for any number other than 1, 2, 3, and 0 as the other buttons on te main PS2 controller for the extra buttons, I'd like to hear it.

[john_q_atari]

I've followed DrVenkman's instructions here on programming: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/281530-my-homemade-5200-controller/?p=4130360

 

However the Tiny85 is not being detected. Do I need to have Scott's board powered by the Atari 5200 when trying to flash?

 

No. I was able to flash the board with only the 6pin header connected to my programmer. (I used a different programmer, the stk500, but that shouldn't matter).

Edited November 4, 2018 by john_q_atari

[rayik]

 

No. I was able to flash the board with only the 6pin header connected to my programmer. (I used a different programmer, the stk500, but that shouldn't matter).

 

 

Thank you john_q_atari.

 

I'm using Windows 10. Turns out I installed the wrong driver using Zadig. You must install libusbK and not Winusb (or let Windows automatically install a driver). Telling me you flashed the board without it energized helped save troubleshooting time.

 

Flashed fine once correct driver installed.

[+DrVenkman]

 

 

Thank you john_q_atari.

 

I'm using Windows 10. Turns out I installed the wrong driver using Zadig. You must install libusbK and not Winusb (or let Windows automatically install a driver). Telling me you flashed the board without it energized helped save troubleshooting time.

 

Flashed fine once correct driver installed.

 

As I stated in step 5 of the How To I posted in the other thread …

 

 

 

5. Plug your USBasb into your computer, then run Zadig. It will recognize your device and tell you there is no installed Windows driver, but a second box to the right of that one will offer to install a driver for you. There are actually several different types of open-source signed driver files you can try, but the USBasp 2.0 design (at least mine!) absolutely requires that it be the correct one. Click the little up- or down-arrows on the right-side driver selection box until you select libusbK, then click the large driver Install button below. There will be a short pause (and it may appear for a second or two as if your click was not registered), but then you'll see Zadig working and it will complete and tell you a driver has been installed. After that, if you open up the Windows Device Manager, you should see the USBasp device listed.

[rayik]

 

As I stated in step 5 of the How To I posted in the other thread …

 

 

I was using your instructions but did not read carefully enough when I installed the driver.

 

I uninstalled everything including the driver. Then using your instructions reinstalled programs / driver but this time paying more attention to what I was reading.

 

Thank you for the guide.

[smbaker]

What exactly is the button mapping? What PS button equals bottom, and what PS button equals top. Would the other buttons work as keypad buttons for certain games?

 

I would prefer X= Bottom, and O=Top. (assuming the bottom button is considered main fire)

 

A previous post of mine has a full mapping of what I would want with 4 of the buttons. Unless someone can see a reason why 1,2,3, and 0 are not the main 4 keypad buttons to program in, I'd like to hear an argument for different numbers. By there way, there are 2 extra buttons. I guess one main button equals pause (in my setup, either L2 or L1), start equals start and select equals reset.

 

I've got room for one other number. Again if someone can think of an argument for any number other than 1, 2, 3, and 0 as the other buttons on te main PS2 controller for the extra buttons, I'd like to hear it.

 

I only had enough IO pins to handle the start, stop, and pause buttons.

 

PS2-Start = 5200 Start

PS2-Select + PS2-Start = 5200 Reset

PS2-Select + PS2-X = 5200 Pause

 

If I were to select a different microcontroller, or find a way to be smarter about allocating IO pins on the one I have, we could see about spinning a future version that could access more buttons.

 

Scott

[tripletopper]

 

I only had enough IO pins to handle the start, stop, and pause buttons.

 

PS2-Start = 5200 Start

PS2-Select + PS2-Start = 5200 Reset

PS2-Select + PS2-X = 5200 Pause

 

If I were to select a different microcontroller, or find a way to be smarter about allocating IO pins on the one I have, we could see about spinning a future version that could access more buttons.

 

Scott

 

What good is an Atari 5200 controller that can ONLY do Start, Select and Pause, and NOT bottom or top? If it doesn't even do the top and bottom button (or on the Trackbal,l the inner and outer button) then only games that don't use either action button would work. I was wondering what maps to top and bottom?

 

If I could chose which buttons are top button and bottom button, I would want X=bottom and O=top for my fight stick. The one exception I can conceive of is if Tutankham was made for the 5200 in which case, when right handed, I want them flipped. That game relies heavily on a "left fire" and "right fire", not a "main fire" and an "aux fire". if someone retrobrews Tutankham for the 5200, there should be a button flip option. Because in both cases trigger finger is on the button button and the thumb is on the top bottom, but on right-stick the bottom button is right, and on left-stick the bottom button is on the left. Like at the beginning of each player's first life,the screen says press "right fire" to proceed. You press whichever button you want to be right.

 

The other keypad buttons are a lower priority, but I can see using the 0 in Defender and a few other games that use 0 as a third button, which I believe is the most common third button.

 

I guess if I'm playing Countermeasure, I could mount the keyboard next to my fight stick and enter the codes on the manual keypad for the 1,2,3. It works on digital on an Atari 800 reprogram, so it could work in digital mode on a 5200.

 

And if a game uses a full 12 key keypad, it probably has analog controls and should be used with Best Electronics gold controller. But even if it had digital controls, probably the Best should be used with 12 keys.

[tripletopper]

Also why a PS2 and NOT A PS1 Dual Shock 1? Wouldn't the digital buttons be an easier conversion than the analog buttons on a PS2? I know a PS2 controller works on a PS1 system as a press of a certain level or other registers as a digital hit, and likewise a PS1 controller on a PS2 machine on either PS1 or PS2 software, but doesn't work work on analog button-required games.

 

And also wouldn't the default be digital, but pressing the analog button puts in analog mode on PS1. This manual pressing would come in handy for fight sticks. Plus if it also works with digital PS1 sticks, and fight sticks, then it's a complete solution.

 

The only other issue is the 141% of radius diagonals when digital. You need something smart to make a diagonal 70.7% of maximum center to edge potentiometer distance when it's diagonal, but 100% when it's a cardinal, so there's no errors in certain games, and cheating issues in others. You don't need it in analog mode because the circular gate on the 5200 and PS2 keep the simultaneous 100%X AND 100%Y in check, by locking it out.

[smbaker]

 

What good is an Atari 5200 controller that can ONLY do Start, Select and Pause, and NOT bottom or top? If it doesn't even do the top and bottom button (or on the Trackbal,l the inner and outer button) then only games that don't use either action button would work. I was wondering what maps to top and bottom?

 

I was referring to the keypad buttons.

 

It does implement the fire buttons, those are implemented separately from the keypad matrix. Playstation L1/R1/Triangle will activate one fire button. Playstation L2/R2/X will activate the other one. This is all on the primary controller output. I could activate triggers on the secondary controller also, if there's reason to do so.

 

In analog mode, the PS2 controller returns both digital state and analog state for the buttons. I'm ignoring the analog button pressures and using the digital state only. This is for the buttons only -- for the thumbsticks, I am reading the analog thumbstick values. I don't own any PS1 dual shock 1 controllers to try one. It may well be very close to working on a dual shock 1.

 

Scott

[tripletopper]

I was thinking that'sa weird choice of fire buttons.

 

For the purposes of a joypad, which was the original intent of the controller, and not a fight stick, like I'd want, an X and a ^ would make it hard to bridge if you have to rapid fire one and hold the other. Most thumbs are a) not big enough to cover the gap between the X and ^, and b) you have to hold your hand at a weird angle.

 

It's just as bad for a fight stick, based on the Street Fighter 15th Anniversary Layout, it would be (assuming the first set of L1/R1/^ is top button because it would be smart to have x as your main trigger):

 

[] ^ R1 L1

X O R2 L2

 

which maps to:

 

? T T T

B ? B B

 

The Ascii arrangement used for Playstation 1 authorized fight sticks is:

 

L1 [] ^ R1

L2 X O R2

 

which maps to:

 

T ? T T

B B ? B

 

The joypad makes little sense because you either have your most rapid fire on the the Triangle ( if you have your bottom button on the L1/R1 index finger trigger and my assumption was right), or the most rapid fire on the middle finger. (if the rapid fire is on the X, and my initial assumption is wrong)

 

By the way is this the final way you make it to everyone who buys one, or is there room for customization by the individual order? If there is, maybe you do it right the first time and accommodate all possible combinations, then there'd be a special "joystick OS button which reprograms the control. Press joystick OS then 1-9 keys are custom-programmed arrangements. Pound equals number mode, press a PS2 pad/stick button then a keypad button to define a keypad button to that button. Star is "button mode", where you hold a PS button and press key one for bottom button, key 2 is top button, key 3 is reserved for keypad presses for pound, mode 4 is reserved for 5200 OS buttons (start Pause, Reset) and 0enters "other mode" where star toggles 100% maximum radius on and off on digital mode (which is toggled by the analog button on the PS1, or is automatically digital if there is no analog button, like most fight sticks) with one beep if on and 2 peeps if off. Zero is define current setup to be arrangement 1-9, and pound could be used for other functions, like "fiip axis mode." for Star Wars where 2 makes up dgo up, 8 makes down go up, 6 makes right go right, 4 makes left go right.

 

Unless someone can think of any other function these PS buttons can be assigned that I didn't miss, then I guess all bases are covered. There's enough 8 more keys that can be used in the miscellaneous that can be used for any functions I missed.

 

If you incorporate this well, accommodate everyone's needs, this might be a handy adapter along the lines of a Tototek adapter which converts PS2/PS1 to older systems.

 

The last thing I see is an opposite gender 15 pin for hooking up an actual keypad for Space Shuttle and Star Raiders. I'd pay at least $20 plus shipping for such an adapter already built. Considering the fact Matthew Gummo, who specializes in analog digitizations, can't convert a 5200 controller for pad hacking, this might come in handy.

[tripletopper]

Seriously the playstation is the most versatile controller. Currently there are direct adapters for Xbox, GameCube, Dreamcast, 360, PS3, Wii Classic, Wii U Classic, One, SNES, Genesis, Saturn, Turbo Grafx 16, Master system (because it's compatible with Genesis), and Atari 2600. A switch does work indirectly with a PS2-> GC-> Switch via Wii U Game Cube Controller adapter, but it's only a 7-button controller. Other 2-step combinations to the Switch like PS2->Xbox 360-> Switch and PS2->Xbox One -> Switch using a Coov N100 either never work or have errors when played a long time.

 

There also exists 3DO, Turbo Grafx 16, and Neo Geo Adapters, but the 3DO doesn't have Daisy Chain, the Turbo is low priority because I have a Beeshu stick, and Neo Geo.

 

http://atariage.com/forums/topic/277853-adapter-to-allow-another-consoles-controllers-on-jaguar/?p=4151128 is the link to a Playstation to Jaguar hookup. But I remember a longer conversation somewhere else.

 

If other 2-step conversions work, you can have PS2-> Genesis -> 7800, PS2-> either Genesis or Jaguar +> INTV PS2-> GC -> N64 and PS2-> SNES-> NES.

 

The last systems for PS2 that I own are Colecovision, Astrocade, and a 3DO with the daisy chain port intact. Other ones I don't own, are CD-i, TI-99/A, Channel F, and Vectrex. The only other American systems have attached joysticks, namely Odyssey 2, RCA Studio II and Arcadia 2001, and the pre-cartridge dedicated systems.

 

This would do well because there are complaints about base 5200 controllers, and if you're going to make one adapter, the Playstation version would be it because of its versatility.

[rayik]

By far the most difficult and time consuming part of building this adapter for me has been the PS2 cable. The ones I purchased had fine wires (very small diameter) that didn't connect well to the dupont connectors. In the end I had to solder the cable to the board and secure the cable to the backplate I mounted the PCB to to avoid putting any tension on the wire/solder connections I had made. I saw at some point in the past, and I can't find it now, that someone, somewhere on the web was selling an adapter cable that had a female playstation controller connection on one end, and female dupont style connectors on the other end. If anyone can find it please post it here and I highly suggest people use that instead of trying to build their own.

 

I did find things like this:

 

https://www.robotshop.com/en/ps2-connector-breakout-board.html

 

and this:

https://www.robotshop.com/en/cytron-breakout-board-ps2-connector.html

 

and this:

https://www.robotshop.com/en/ps2-connector.html

 

Perhaps Scott you could do a future board revision where you can directly solder the last connector to the board. It would make assembly of the bare board SO MUCH EASIER.

 

Or if people haven't build the cable/attachment part of their adapters yet, they could consider wiring up one of the devices I listed above (or others like it) and perhaps make their lives easier. One example would be to purchase the last adapter, hack the end off of a 9 or 10 pin pre-built dupont female to whatever gender connector, and solder the wires from the hacked off end to the connector. Just a thought.

 

 

Looks good, Rayik.

 

In other news, I received my robotshop connectors and breakout board today. Here's a couple pictures. The first shows the breakout board, together with a 9-pin 0.100" female header (header is NOT supplied; you'd have to get one of your own)

 

ps2connector.jpg

 

Second picture shows the robotshop breakboard with 0.100" female header soldered to it, and then plugged into the 5200-ps2 adapter.

 

5200-ps2-with-breakout.JPG

 

An alternative to using the female header would be to solder the breakout board to the 5200-PS2 adapter's male header directly, though much more difficult to ever take it apart if you want to.

 

I like this solution better than hacking up a PS2 extension cable, thanks john_q_atari for the links.

 

Scott

 

Thanks john_q_atari for the breakout board links. I've ordered then along with 9-pin 0.100" female header (Digikey part #: S7042-ND).

 

I also like the idea of not chopping up a cable. Not because of damaging the cable, but rather to avoid wiring it up wrong.

[smbaker]

I received a board revision over the weekend, and had a chance to build one out. New board features a footprint that can be used to directly mount the robotshop ps2 connector.

 

[CPUWIZ]

Endless rant...

 

Going into every thread possible, where people are creating things, just to criticize their work, is becoming annoying. IMO

 

Why don't you produce something cool and be on the other end for a change? Have you ever even bought a homebrew software or hardware project?

[tripletopper]

I'm done being critical, I want to order one.

 

How Much, completely built, just plug and play?

[Shawn]

I'm done being critical, I want to order one.

 

How Much, completely built, just plug and play?

 

It's been made VERY clear in every single one of Dr. Baker's threads that he only sells the PCBs. If you where not so busy spamming constant non-sense and actually took the time to read and comprehend whats written in front you that would already be understood.

 

I can't wait until you are banned. It should be any time now at the pace you're at. Sooner the better IMO, so by all means, keep it up. Thumbs up indeed.

[tripletopper]

This is like really cool. How much for one pre-assembled and ready to plug in my PS2 joydstick/pad and a 5200 console?

 

I assume you can have the top and button action button mapped to anything the user wants. If that's the case, then everyone who orders one would be happy. I think Tototek can custom wire their adapters for whatever one setup you want most. We'll find out by december 1st, if it's easy for Tototek. I'd asume it'd be easier for you becuase you make one at a time as they are ordered and paid for.

 

First I understand in most games, the keypad is desgined to have slow deliberate access, which means in most games, you don't need the keypad in the heat of battle. I understand mapping keypad buttons may be extra.

 

Having said that, if the overlays indicate the most common buttons that need to be accessed, then the most common one is 0. I know countermeasure only uses the 1,2,3 buttons for the "end doomsday" code, and that is a separate mode where you don't need to mix keypad, joystick, and buttons, but Realsports Soccer can reasonably use 1,2,3 and high medium and low kicks. 0 is used for ground kick in the heat of battle. By the way in realsprots soccer, do different keys active different players on the team, or is it like a single defensive switch button that takes control of the nearest guy to the ball? That will determine if all I needed is the 4 button mapped, or whether it's futile to map one "switch player"button for Soccer when there are 6 different ones..

 

I believe football is play calling in the huddle.

 

Baseball, Star Raiders, and Space Shuttle has way too many different buttons to fit on an 8 button PS2 stick, those 3 games should be played with your adapter as an external keypad.

 

If adding keypad presses to the PS controller is expensive, I might just want to do zero, or no keys at all, but it's it's relatively cheap., I'd like the following mapping

 

[] ^ R1 L1

X O R2 L2

 

becomes

 

1 2 3 0

B T 0 4

 

I believe you have PS Start= 5200 Pause, PS Select = 5200 Start, and both PS2 Start and Select together= 5200 Reset. If that's the case, I like that combination.

 

If too expensive to add the the keypads on the PS sticks, then all I need is X=B and O=T. If I could have one button for Defender and most games that have a third button, I'd take R2=0.

 

The default mapping of X=B ^=T makes the joystick buttons too staggered on my fight stick. Also checking with a real PS2 control pad, X=B and ^=T is too far of a gap to operate with a single thumb yet is scrunches your index finger if you need the middle finger over ^ when "2 fingering" your main and aux fire.

 

The 0 in L1 is for games where you play with a PS2 Dual Shock 2 and you need 2 fingers for both buttons and need a handy third button on the left side shoulder for hyperspace, becuase your right hand is occupied with fire and smart bombs.

 

I assume these are made one by one, and can be wired individually to whatever button you, I , or anyone else wants. If that's the case, then everyone can get the arrangement they want. Supposedly Tototek does that, but unitl I receivie PS2->SNES and PS2-> Genesis the way i want in my hands, I won't assume it's that easy.

 

Thatwoud be real convenient if it's custom wired to each order, but I'm not expecting it if it's not offered. If it's not, I'll have to ddecide whether I want it knowing that fact.

 

Best of all it's 2 joystick in one. One is a self-centering Analog stick using a dual shock 2, (or maybe a dual shock 1) In some games, that sucks, and in other games, that's exactly what the doctor ordered. The other is an 8-way fight stick. Just use a PS 1 controller without analogs, (or press analog on either a DS1 or DS2 to turn the analog light off)

 

It looks like none of the 5200 games have the concept of left action and right acito on their buttons. All the 5200 games I believe are main fire and aux fire. But if Tutankham was made ofr hte 5200, or if someone retrobrews something, if there is no software defined main=right (right hand stick) vs main=left (left hand stick) switcher, then I need a button switching adapter for 5200 port M-F.

 

One last thing, add this line of code to make it compatible with the few games that don't work right in 8-way mode, but do in 4, plus would prevent diagonal speed bursts that the Competiiton Pro might be in hot water for for giving you 141% of radius if X=10% and y=100%. If 141% joysticks are illegal, then this would make it a legal digital stick. (Assuming X=0 and Y=0 is neutral and range form -1 to +1. (i don't know if it does but follow the same basic concept)

 

" If (dig X<>0) AND (dig Y<>0) THEN

[

ana X =( SGN (dig X) * .707)

ana Y =( SGN (dig Y) * .707)

]

else

[

ana X = SGN (dig X)

ana y = SGN (dig Y)

]

 

Where SGN(n) returns either -1, 0 or +1, depending whether n is negative, neutral, or positive.

 

Seriously, how much does one cost prebuilt? It might be cheaper than hiring Mathew Gummo to digitize an analog stick, plus it's more useful, and Gummo is not sure about working with 5200 potentiometers. If I can avoid having him do a 5200 controller, it's better for me, him, and you. Seriously, how much?

[tripletopper]

Okay I didn't see the last thing. I don't know how to work with PCBs, so I'm seriously wondering if I can hire the labor. to get it wired the way I want. I'm seriously interested in buying one. Ttotek adpaters cost $22 plus shipping. so what would be a fair price for one of these things prebuilt? It can be as naked as the one shown. I just got to ziploc it when carrying it out of the house to prevent rain and moisture.

 

I know most people on Atari Age seem to be tech geniuses who can build the PCB off the blueprints. I'm not one of them. On December the 3rd, I can get some money, paypal it to the maker of these devices, and ship me one. ust because I'm unable to work on a lot of things with electronics, shouldn't mean I'm automatically locked out of the PS2-> 5200 adapter..

[tripletopper]

And Yes I did read right, I wasn't expecting a complete controller. I know I'm getting a PS2->5200 adapter. I know I have to provide my own fight stick, and my own PS2 PCB padhacked to get it working with the PS2->5200.

 

And SMBaker said he'll sell PCBs as long as there's interest near the beginning. So whoever said I was expecting a full fight stick didn't read what I was saything. I was always calling it a PS2-> 5200 adapter. I have a PS2 Street Fighter 15th Anniversary stick, but I got another stick that could be ready soon. I was NOT calling it a 5200 Fight Stick.

 

I've been consistent, so whoever wants to ban me has not read what I said. (I know there's a lot, and you may have skipped it due to sheer length )

 

I'll provide my own PS2 fight stick, SMBaker will (if I meet his price) provide the PS2-> 5200 adapter. How much for one?

[john_q_atari]

Please read the thread from the beginning. Go slowly, take your time with each message, with a pause at the end of reading each posting to reflect on what you have just read. After you are done with this, if you have been taking notes, you will hopefully come away with the following details:

 

1. smbaker designed and built his own adapter.

2. he posted a website with details on how it works and what parts are needed.

3. he sells people just the plain circuit board.

4. it is up to others to read his website and: order the parts themselves, assemble the device themselves, do their own soldering themselves, program the chip themselves, test it themselves.

5. No one has offered to do anything in #4, the line above, for anyone else. everyone is on their own on this project, but if they have a question that hasn't been addressed in the previous 99 posts, then they can always ask.

6. if someone wanted to do anything in #4 they would have offered to do it by now. they haven't offered. I don't think they are going to change their mind.