+SpiceWare Posted August 13, 2019 Share Posted August 13, 2019 I've a friend working up a video about paddles for his YouTube channel, Displaced Gamers. He's done a number of interesting technical videos such as why dithering looked so much better back in the day than it does on modern emulation, various Atari 2600 repairs, why you can use channel 96 in the US to play an imported Famicon, etc. He's asking if the Padde Capacitor referenced in the Stella manual is an internal component of TIA, or elsewhere. Not being a hardware guy, I don't know. Any other paddle hardware info for the 2600 as well as Commodore & Atari computers and anything else that supported paddles would be useful as well. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChildOfCv Posted August 13, 2019 Share Posted August 13, 2019 The capacitors are connected to the TIA's paddle input pins in the Atari. They're the .068 capacitors in the 2600 schematic. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CapitanClassic Posted August 13, 2019 Share Posted August 13, 2019 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+SpiceWare Posted August 21, 2019 Author Share Posted August 21, 2019 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
overgrouth Posted October 2, 2019 Share Posted October 2, 2019 All pots are different reguardless of their manufacture's. Sure some are more simulair to others but to make matters worse Atari litterly bought off the shelf parts rather then having these manufactured making every single one of these different acrost the board. Pulling apart identicle paddle controllers results in finding different innards for the pots and on ocashion you come acrost the ones that are fully sealed pots leaving you screwed over when having the idea to clean them. Though being sealed as they are the question is are they really dirty. Well in some cases it may be true but more often I find the contacts in the pot A pin and a round peicw of metal warp with usage and if you jam a screw in the pot forcing these two contacts to make full contact again the netorious jitter from loosing connection vanishes and you once again have paddles like brand new as long as you do not get the screw so far in the pot that it causes resistance. If the paddle is had to turn it does not matter how smooth it is your going to feel like the paddle is experencing lag. It is not lag but ratger resistance generating torque and when you stop the rotation the torque pushes your hand a hair further resulting in failure when trying to play a game. You seem to never get to the intended location in time and once your there you seem to stop but it then overshoots the position you though you had apearing as if it were lagging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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