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Question about components of Sega Genesis Cartridge PCB


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Hey folks,


I recently came into possession of a copy Trayisa that had its CR2032 battery explode inside of the cartridge. After cleaning the board up, I noticed a number of spots where corrosion occurred that ate away at one of the components (labeled as C3). My assumption was that this was a ceramic capacitor of some kind as opposed to a resistor (only because of the naming convention used for the components on the PCB). There are colored stripes on the component, similar to a resistor (Red, Red, Orange, White or Gray if I'm reading the component correctly). My question is "What is this component?". I would like to repair the board. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.


PCB Info:

SEGA 1990







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You can look up the colour codes and how to read them online but essentially they are the same as resistor colour code except that instead of starting from 0 you are working in pico farahds (pf).

So I believe 2, 2 & 3 zero = 22000pF = 22nF, white/grey will be the tolerance, generally ceramic are 10% 

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Ugh, but I've recently seen worse. But it was a common that I got it as a shell donor, so LOL.


Yeah those are just bypass caps, it could probably work fine without them, but almost anything in the right range is okay. Just take out the bad stuff, try to clean it, and test it out before you put in a new battery. I'm not sure what kind of chemical is best, as I don't know whether a lithium coin battery is acidic or basic, but probably some baking soda water and an old toothbrush, then rinse, towel dry, and let it air dry after that. I think I'm going to try it with my board now.

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I just tried cleaning the messy board I had with baking soda, it seemed to work okay, but I had already removed all the parts from the board, which made it easier to clean. The capacitors had a "223" and a "336" on them, 336 doesn't make sense (33µf), but 223 would be 22000pf/22nf/.022µf. Your capacitors seem to be red/red/orange, which is also 223. Anything in the range of 0.01 to 0.1 is probably fine, with larger being marginally better. It will probably work without any of them, their purpose is to even out the power supply close to the chips.


If you can't get it to work, you could move the ROM to a new board. I have taken apart a lot of carts, and while I didn't find too many 5955A, it is possible that 6278A could work too. (42-pin ROM, 6264/76C88 RAM, 74C00, but I don't have a schematic to confirm) It's also a single-sided board and may be easier to transplant. The best part is you'll find them in lots of junk games.


As for the blue vias, I've seen that on boards that are NOT messed up, so it's probably just some solder mask weirdness. As long as the copper hasn't been damaged, and you stabilize the pH, it should be okay. I see where some of the copper on mine got exposed where the solder mask was lost.


known 5955A carts:

Tecmo Super Hockey

Tecmo Super NBA Basketball

Shining in the Darkness
Phantasy Star III
Pirates! Gold


known 6278A carts:

NHL All-Star Hockey '95
World Series Baseball
College Football's Nat. Ch.
College Football's Nat. Ch. II
NBA Action '94
ATP Tour Championship Tennis
NFL Football 94 w/Joe Montana
ESPN National Hockey Night


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  • 2 weeks later...

So I now have a functional cart of Traysia. I did get components that were too large for the cart, cleaned the board without removing chips, and removed a minimal amount of corrosion from one of the ICs to just make contact with fresh solder. I also had to bridge a cap with a pin from one of the ICs due to the solder pad being completely corroded away. The goal was to see if the cart and components still work. Mission accomplished. I will be getting more appropriate components and give the board a more detailed cleaning at a later date. I did also neutralize any remaining acid or other chemicals on the cart as well as use a single pass of corrosion cleaner. Results are attached. 








Edited by ChrisBushman
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  • 3 weeks later...

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