Proline joystick issue

[Goochman]

My one and only proline joystick is acting up.  Ive never worked on one of these so was hoping for some insight before I tear into it.  For unknown reasons the joystick wont register "Up".  All over directions and firebuttons work fine.

 

Are these easy to service inside like the 2600 stick or should I not bother?

[+-^CrossBow^-]

They use the same dome switches that the 2600 controllers use so they are pretty easy to work on. 

 

[+slx]

Best sells refurb kits. 

[Goochman]

I finally got around to opening my joystick and it looks brand new, except UP wont register.  Contacts and everything are in good shape.  Any suggestions on how I can test that the wires work?  Which wires connected to the board align with the UP pad?  Maybe I can connect a different wire to see if the pad works?

 

 

[+-^CrossBow^-]

You could also attach a standard 2600 controller and see if you can at least get response in all directions with that. Only 1 fire button, but it is enough for troubleshooting. 

 

Failing that, you would need a multimeter and set it to continuity mode. From there you need to attach the probes so that one is on the common ground they all share and the other at the wire point for the actual UP switch. Press down on the dome to be sure you get continuity. Use a paper clip to stick into the end of the cable that plugs into the 7800 and make sure you have good continuity from the wire end on the board to the plug end. If all of that checks out, then it would likely be an issue within the console itself and not the controller.

 

[+x=usr(1536)]

When my 7800 went into a storage bin around 2003, both Proline joysticks worked perfectly.

 

When the 7800 came out of storage a year or two ago, both Proline joysticks were shot.  Opening them up revealed that everything on the PCBs looked fine, but the dome switches had degraded to the point of just flat-out not working for the most part.

 

Best's kit fixed that, and I highly-recommend it.  However, give @-^CrossBow^-'s advice to check continuity a shot first.  No sense buying the PCBs if you don't need them.

[Goochman]

TBH I have no idea what went wrong with my Proline CX-24.  I opened it up and sure enough the up button didnt register.  I opened a 2600 joystick and used those wires on the CX-24 board and everything worked.  After screwing around a bit I eventually broke the tabs on the CX-24 trying to get the handle off.  I then broke the green wire connector on the 2600 joystick.  What comedy of errors..........

 

I tried testing the CX-24 board one more time and everything worked.........all directions and fire button - WTF!

 

Anyhow I ordered a refurb CX-24 from Best and a new metal slide/plastic actuator so I should have 2 workings sticks.

 

 

One last question - how do you separate the joystick top from the metal shaft?  Thats how I broke the plastic actuators on my original stick?

[+x=usr(1536)]

23 minutes ago, Goochman said:

TBH I have no idea what went wrong with my Proline CX-24.  I opened it up and sure enough the up button didnt register.  I opened a 2600 joystick and used those wires on the CX-24 board and everything worked.  After screwing around a bit I eventually broke the tabs on the CX-24 trying to get the handle off.  I then broke the green wire connector on the 2600 joystick.  What comedy of errors..........

 

I tried testing the CX-24 board one more time and everything worked.........all directions and fire button - WTF!

Pressing down on the domes and unplugging / replugging the wiring connectors at the PCB edge could potentially have removed enough oxidation that things started making contact again.

23 minutes ago, Goochman said:

Anyhow I ordered a refurb CX-24 from Best and a new metal slide/plastic actuator so I should have 2 workings sticks.

An excellent decision

23 minutes ago, Goochman said:

One last question - how do you separate the joystick top from the metal shaft?  Thats how I broke the plastic actuators on my original stick?

Force.  More than you think may be necessary.

 

From what I recall, on mine I put a 15mm open-end wrench under the joystick knob, then grabbed the shaft with a pair of Vise-Grips.  Using that frightening amount of strength where you need power but without breaking anything, I put direct upward pulling force on the wrench while using the Vise-Grips to keep the thing anchored in place.  Eventually the knob popped right off and I let out a sigh of relief.

 

BTW: Best has replacement parts for the CX24, so if you want to get a replacement actuator, they should have them.