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Keelog Power Supply


Greg2600

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4 minutes ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

They do seem a bit on the pricey side but I'm very tempted to pick up one for the CV to have on hand and also for the Atari XL/XE line. Although I did just rebuild my 'Beauty Queen' XL PSU only a month ago LOL!

 

I think you've talked me into it Jesse.  Going to buy a couple and try em out! 

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I also inquired on the FB Group and the Keelog's seem to be getting a stamp of approval, I'll probably try them on my CV and C64.  My OEM bricks still work on both but we know how flaky they are.  As for price, I mean, they're in line with most modern replacements to be honest.  I don't see the point of the more expensive OLED versions, the $50 LED should be fine.  Frankly who needs a display on a PSU anyway?

 

I checked on lemon64 and there were some instances of a Keelog popping the C64 fuse (too much on the AC rail) but others had no issues. 

https://www.lemon64.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=74063&start=0&sid=229dd291b08386bd5a5516130ee5e0f5

Quote

There has been a couple of reports of instability when using the Keelog PSU, this seems to be due to the AC rail being too high. An original 240v rated PSU outputs around 10v AC (24:1) while the Keelog is outputting around 12 (20:1). I assume the same holds true for the 110v version

While this shouldn't be an issue for most C64s, the internal voltage regulators will take care of it (while generating more heat). It will lead to issues when using the 326298 boards as they have no heatsink on the 5v regulator, so it will likely overheat and shut off until it cools down again. Also this means the Keelog is sending higher AC to the user port, but this is rarely used by anything so also shouldn't be an issue for most.

So, if you have a 326298 board or are using a device that's powered by AC on the user port - I DO NOT recommend getting the Keelog.

 

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1 minute ago, Greg2600 said:

I also inquired on the FB Group and the Keelog's seem to be getting a stamp of approval, I'll probably try them on my CV and C64.  My OEM bricks still work on both but we know how flaky they are.  As for price, I mean, they're in line with most modern replacements to be honest.  I don't see the point of the more expensive OLED versions, the $50 LED should be fine.  Frankly who needs a display on a PSU anyway?

 

I checked on lemon64 and there were some instances of a Keelog popping the C64 fuse (too much on the AC rail) but others had no issues. 

https://www.lemon64.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=74063&start=0&sid=229dd291b08386bd5a5516130ee5e0f5

 

Interesting... For reasons I've never understood my actual output voltages from my wall outlets here at my house is actually well above the 117v normal and my killawatt has reported voltages between 123 - 128v at my house. I know it is the reason that I can't actively use my TurboDUOs original PSU for more than about 30min - hour as it will start to buzz very angrily beyond that! LOL! 

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27 minutes ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

Interesting... For reasons I've never understood my actual output voltages from my wall outlets here at my house is actually well above the 117v normal and my killawatt has reported voltages between 123 - 128v at my house. I know it is the reason that I can't actively use my TurboDUOs original PSU for more than about 30min - hour as it will start to buzz very angrily beyond that! LOL! 

Well don't forget that alternating current flows in a sine wave (0 to supposedly +/-150 volts) and the "average" is around 117.5 or thereabouts.  There could be an issue there, but normally it's only time to freak when your light bulbs start burning out quickly.  123-128 is way too high, and you're being charged I'm sure for power you can't even use.  If that's the true reading, should force the power company to come and investigate.

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12 minutes ago, Greg2600 said:

123-128 is way too high, and you're being charged I'm sure for power you can't even use.  If that's the true reading, should force the power company to come and investigate.

Honestly, I have the cheapest electric bills I can ever recall having since I moved into this house. I can tell you that I noticed the spike in the output right around the time they installed the new digital meter on the house. I've also am lucky in that ever since they did that, I also experience brief 10 - 20min outtages at least once a month now and always during the middle of the day when we aren't usually home. So that's fun...

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

An update on this, as my order for the CV and atari 8-bit supplies arrived from DHL. I not home yet to check them out but certainly will and give my thoughts on them. I'm especially curious on the CV one as I at least have OEM, HD0180P's MW supply, and the ColUSB to compare it with.

 

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Well, after messing with it for the past 15 - 20min I can only state that the Atari 8-bit PSU seems to work just dandy. But the actual plug end for the Colecovision PSU that I received is roughly .5mm too small all the way around. As a result, none of the openings on the plug actually line up on the pins on the CV power input port. To make sure it wasn't something goofy with my daily driver CV I checked with my spare and also compared with a few parts boards that still have their power ports attached. Nope... same story on all of them. There is no way to physically modify the plug end that I can see to make those pins line up better as it appears to be a well made 3d printed plug but it is sealed.

 

I've emailed them to ask about it and will await to hear from them on it.

 

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On 12/17/2021 at 12:24 AM, -^CrossBow^- said:

Well, after messing with it for the past 15 - 20min I can only state that the Atari 8-bit PSU seems to work just dandy. But the actual plug end for the Colecovision PSU that I received is roughly .5mm too small all the way around. As a result, none of the openings on the plug actually line up on the pins on the CV power input port. To make sure it wasn't something goofy with my daily driver CV I checked with my spare and also compared with a few parts boards that still have their power ports attached. Nope... same story on all of them. There is no way to physically modify the plug end that I can see to make those pins line up better as it appears to be a well made 3d printed plug but it is sealed.

 

I've emailed them to ask about it and will await to hear from them on it.

 

Wow, so you can't even use the CV model?  You might have been the first AtariAger to actually try out the CV adapter, although for pete's sake they had to have tested these somehow on actual consoles.

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2 hours ago, Bomberman93 said:

I received my Keelog CV PSU yesterday.

The plug is totally crap. The female pins are to tight and when I tried to stretch them, a little piece of plastic broke. The plastic ist very hard and fragile, not like the original, which is very soft.

And there is 1mm space on each side at least.

 

There is not way to actually make it fit with the one I received. When I match the plug up with my actual CV power port, it is like the entire thing was designed at 95 - 90% of actual size? And you are correct, that the female ends inside the port are not wide enough to actually allow the pins to fit in the first place. So even if the plugs did line up properly, they still won't fit. It is completely useless. 

 

However, the Atari PSU is good. So if only that plug end had been made properly I'm sure it would be a good PSU. As it stands, I can't use it at all unless I crack it open and replace that portion of it out.

 

Another thing worth mentioning is that the entire PSU is self contained. So the power cords are attached inside the brick housing. And the entire thing is about 6.5' long in total from plug end to plug end with the brick basically in the center of that. I will note that the brick is on the small side and weighs hardly anything. In fact, the entire PSU cables and all on my postal scale comes in at just 14oz total weight.

 

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I bought three of these for my Ataris and Commodores. No issues with them. No news is good news I guess. 

 

I wonder if there were changes in the Colecovision production back in the day that Keelog didn't realize. Maybe someone can send them high-res pictures/measurements so that they can correct this.

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4 hours ago, youki said:

this problem about the plug is very curious.  Is possible that the power plug for the CV is different depending the country?

The plug is exactly the same for US, Canada and UK ColecoVision units.  Not sure about Europe or Australia but I suspect they are exactly the same as my understanding is that all the CBS Electronics units were made in the UK (although I can't prove that and will stand corrected if someone can provide some pics). 

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Well again, the only way to describe the plug is that it was designed at 90% of the actual size. So the plug is smaller in diameter, the pins female plugs are too close together and they aren't wide enough even if they were lined up right.

 

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Okay I broke out my calipers to measure things and yeah... I would say these Keelog PSU plugs are WAY off!

 

First here is the rough width between the upper pins on the actual CV plug. I know mine is missing a pin, that is why this is a parts board, but I eyeball this pretty darn close and I would say it is still about 10mm normally.

CV_Plug_Width.thumb.jpg.e12ea8d5b2506dde1ce8d6edd380f677.jpg

 

Here is the distance between those same two pins on the Keelog PSU plug. It is at least a .5mm off

klg_plug_width.thumb.jpg.b429c854499470da6d76159784ba1fd3.jpg

 

Here is the rough width of the lower pins on the actual CV plug end.

cv_plug_lower_pin_width.thumb.jpg.0a4be30a841c586280b84cf7ca6ba954.jpg

 

Again, the Keelog PSU is off here by more than .5mm

klg_lower_pin_width.thumb.jpg.cb25a56c19b32d5da243857c1c4dbaa2.jpg

 

The rough width between the lower and upper row pins is also pretty critical...

cv_row_width.thumb.jpg.f605c5e1e55976aed382748fb1b0d53d.jpg

 

However the Keelog PSU is again is not even close here...

klg_cv_row_width.thumb.jpg.b5e6e5b11dbf77b4910082fbce7b3c2e.jpg

 

Finally the nail in the coffin as if the above wasn't enough... this is the width of the actual pins inside the plug according to my calipers...

cv_pin_width.thumb.jpg.185946c7014c2110fb57d60cab16d6be.jpg

 

The Keelog is close but this can't be close it has to be exact and even slightly larger than the original pins but the keelog width is too small to allow the pins to fit inside.

klg_pin_width.thumb.jpg.2dc877559e0bfcb1648972621a194f7e.jpg

 

So yeah, this plug they have made while it looks quite nice, there is no physical way it will actually plug into a standard Colecovision. The only option here is to cut their plug off and splice on an OEM one that isn't worn out already.

 

Here is a bonus pic showing the brick size compared to a ColUSB and a 2600 TIA chip.

size_comparison.thumb.jpg.ab54007f407adf06dbfe8290d1004f78.jpg 

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I believe they are 3D printed yes. Looks to be two halves that are epoxied together in the end. However, even if the pins were in the right locations, they still need to use wider female pins in order for the the plug to fit properly.

 

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41 minutes ago, Greg2600 said:

Oh the pins are too small as well?  Don't the female pins "expand" slightly as you insert?  Maybe they don't have to be exactly the same size as the male pins?

that would normally be true, but there isn't any room for theirs to expand any further. I've tried and I've not been able to get even a single loose pin to insert into one of the pin openings. The initial diameter is much too small and if you look carefully at the pics I posted, the ends of them plugs already appeared to be flared out slightly. So they are an even tighter diameter inside the actual plastic housing. 

 

Point is, they won't fit in the current construction. The pins aren't aligned properly and the inner diameter of the pins is not wide enough to allow to be plugged in even if the pins were aligned.

 

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