RetroB1977 Posted March 26, 2022 Share Posted March 26, 2022 (edited) Well, I got my Gateway 2000 4sx-33 out today in hopes of installing Windows 95 on it. I found the 400mb hard drive a bit small so I was going to replace it with a much larger 1gb drive. After replacing the drive the computer locked up at the boot screen. I put the old drive back in, still locks up. Removed all the drives, floppy and hard. Still nothing! The lights on the keyboard do not flash and pushing num lock does nothing. Do any of you guys know what could be the problem? And how am I going to play Doom while I'm waiting!? Edited March 26, 2022 by RetroB1977 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RetroB1977 Posted March 26, 2022 Author Share Posted March 26, 2022 I removed all the expansion cards too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keatah Posted March 26, 2022 Share Posted March 26, 2022 (edited) Something this old should have all the contacts and connectors and socketed chips cleaned/reseated. Additionally, perhaps something in the BIOS got changed? And is your CMOS battery (or batteries, mine has 2) good? Those are the basics to start with. As for Doom, you'll have to run it on a modern system with DOSbox. Or try a modern engine like GZDoom https://www.zdoom.org/downloads .. It's a great experience! Edited March 26, 2022 by Keatah 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RetroB1977 Posted March 26, 2022 Author Share Posted March 26, 2022 18 minutes ago, Keatah said: Something this old should have all the contacts and connectors and socketed chips cleaned/reseated. Additionally, perhaps something in the BIOS got changed? And is your CMOS battery (or batteries, mine has 2) good? Those are the basics to start with. The CMOS battery died ages ago, luckily I got it out before it did any damage. It's alkaline but in a weird package. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keatah Posted March 26, 2022 Share Posted March 26, 2022 (edited) That's a fairly standard CMOS backup. My GW2K rig has 2, a VartaBomb soldered on-board, and the same one shown. Edited March 26, 2022 by Keatah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RetroB1977 Posted March 26, 2022 Author Share Posted March 26, 2022 7 minutes ago, Keatah said: That's a fairly standard CMOS backup. My GW2K rig has 2, a VataBomb soldered on-board, and the same one shown. Do you know where I can buy a new one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keatah Posted March 26, 2022 Share Posted March 26, 2022 Try ebay. If not, then just get a 3x AA battery holder. Standard alkaline cells will last years. My last set is going on 4 with minimal power drop. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keatah Posted March 26, 2022 Share Posted March 26, 2022 Be sure you address any onboard battery, otherwise it could potentially leak or drain your external pack. You can get 3.6V NiMH onboard batteries from ebay for less than $10.00 shipped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RetroB1977 Posted March 26, 2022 Author Share Posted March 26, 2022 1 minute ago, Keatah said: Be sure you address any onboard battery, otherwise it could potentially leak or drain your external pack. You can get 3.6V NiMH onboard batteries from ebay for less than $10.00 shipped. I don't see any on the board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keatah Posted March 26, 2022 Share Posted March 26, 2022 Dallas RTC maybe? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RetroB1977 Posted March 26, 2022 Author Share Posted March 26, 2022 17 minutes ago, Keatah said: Dallas RTC maybe? Nope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eightbit Posted March 27, 2022 Share Posted March 27, 2022 (edited) Was this computer working OK before you swapped the hard drive? Did it boot fine? What is the exact model of the motherboard used in this system? There are many OPTi 495 boards....try to see what is silkscreened on the board so we know what you have. Also, look for jumper P1. That should be the CMOS clear jumper on most of these boards. Normal CMOS operation would be with the jumper closing pins 2+3....where it should be now. Change it to pins 1+2 and power on the machine. Then power off and put it back on 2+3. Sounds like maybe a CMOS setting issue if I were to make a guess. Maybe a RAM problem as well. Try reseating the RAM as well. Edited March 27, 2022 by eightbit 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted March 27, 2022 Share Posted March 27, 2022 Dumb question; Is the IDE ribbon upside down? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RodLightning Posted March 27, 2022 Share Posted March 27, 2022 Could be a confused BIOS. If everything suggested previously doesn't work, also try pulling that daughter card and boot without it. Is it a modem board on the riser? Network card or something else? I remember sometimes having lockup on boot with 90s pcs after swapping hardware around. After a few cmos resets and tinkering, the problem would go away. I would definitely replace the battery. I would also probably try to get it back to a bootable state with the original drive and stock configuration before going any further. my two cents Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eightbit Posted March 27, 2022 Share Posted March 27, 2022 I had something very similar recently configuring my 486 DX4-100. I have been testing VLB video cards and one in particular did not like the AT bus clock setting in the BIOS. So, it would lock up much like this one on POST. I did not see a CMOS clear jumper on the board so I had to install an alternate VLB video card to get into the BIOS and change it. With the setting active the VLB video card that locked up on POST would not accept any keyboard input either....no lights, etc. This is why I am leaning toward making sure the BIOS here is back to factory defaults. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted March 27, 2022 Share Posted March 27, 2022 I am rather serious about the upside-down IDE cable. In older systems like this, the IDE controller is likely not PCI. This means the data lines have very little between them and the CPU's data bus. (unlike PCI, which has a bridge controller chip in the way). If the cable is upside down, it can cause a bus conflict, which can have symptoms similar to this. As a diagnostic step, the OP should disconnect all IDE devices. (Leave power connected, but disconnect the data cable. Often the PSUs need a load.) See if the keyboard magically springs to life, if they can boot from a diskette, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eightbit Posted March 27, 2022 Share Posted March 27, 2022 Just now, wierd_w said: I am rather serious about the upside-down IDE cable. I know, which is why I liked your first post about it This absolutely needs to be checked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted March 27, 2022 Share Posted March 27, 2022 (edited) Just being more clear about the rationale of the dumb question, that's all. (as concerns the alkaline battery replacement, an inexensive "3 AA battery holder" with the appropriate DuPont connector on the end can be had through any number of suppliers. 3 AA batteries in series adds up to 4.5v, and this was a very common solution to "dead battery" back in the day. Some sticker backed velcro to help stick it to the inside of the case, and bob's your uncle.) Edited March 27, 2022 by wierd_w 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eightbit Posted March 27, 2022 Share Posted March 27, 2022 If this computer did not turn on at all (and power was confirmed not to be the issue) I would be more concerned. But it is coming on which is hopeful. It's alive. I have no doubt the problem here can be sorted. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted March 27, 2022 Share Posted March 27, 2022 Indeed. It is TRYING to post, and just getting stuck. Possible sources of issue: Bad PSU providing insufficient power Bus conflict of some kind Bad RAM Corrosion on motherboard from dead caps (This system predates capacitor plague, but never hurts to check for spooge) "Out of tolerance", "Partially vented" caps Unstable / improper wall outlet power (wired backward, not grounded, noisy, irregular sinewave, out of tolerance voltage properties, etc...) Removing all other cards is part of diagnosing bus conflict as possible source, but the IDE cable on these older systems is another source of potential bus conflict. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted March 27, 2022 Share Posted March 27, 2022 Re-reading the opening post, the OP has already disconnected all drives. The image is pretty grainy, but it looks like there are yellow tantalum caps near the AT power connector. Those should be inspected for any signs of scorching or cracks, and should be touched gently while power is on to see if any of them feel hot or warm. If the OP has (and knows how to use) an LCR meter, they should check them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keatah Posted March 27, 2022 Share Posted March 27, 2022 I'd like to see some pics of the board. Either a full-shot or several smaller ones covering all areas. Is this a Micronics board? GW2K used the brand quite a lot prior to PentiumPro and Pentium II. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RetroB1977 Posted March 27, 2022 Author Share Posted March 27, 2022 10 hours ago, eightbit said: Was this computer working OK before you swapped the hard drive? Did it boot fine? What is the exact model of the motherboard used in this system? There are many OPTi 495 boards....try to see what is silkscreened on the board so we know what you have. Also, look for jumper P1. That should be the CMOS clear jumper on most of these boards. Normal CMOS operation would be with the jumper closing pins 2+3....where it should be now. Change it to pins 1+2 and power on the machine. Then power off and put it back on 2+3. Sounds like maybe a CMOS setting issue if I were to make a guess. Maybe a RAM problem as well. Try reseating the RAM as well. It worked great before I swapped the HDD. I reseated all the RAM and tried it with only one stick of each. I'll look for that jumper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RetroB1977 Posted March 27, 2022 Author Share Posted March 27, 2022 4 hours ago, wierd_w said: I am rather serious about the upside-down IDE cable. In older systems like this, the IDE controller is likely not PCI. This means the data lines have very little between them and the CPU's data bus. (unlike PCI, which has a bridge controller chip in the way). If the cable is upside down, it can cause a bus conflict, which can have symptoms similar to this. As a diagnostic step, the OP should disconnect all IDE devices. (Leave power connected, but disconnect the data cable. Often the PSUs need a load.) See if the keyboard magically springs to life, if they can boot from a diskette, etc. I've been running it without anything plugged in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RetroB1977 Posted March 27, 2022 Author Share Posted March 27, 2022 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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