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KeeLog Power Supply


dhe

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never heard of them, also this won't work without replacing the internal power supply in the console with some sort of adapter/wiring 

clearly stated on this page: https://www.keelog.com/ti-99-4a-psu-oled-digital-black-us-replacement-ti-99-4a-power-supply-us-plug/

you must modify your console to use this supply AND if you plug in an original TI supply to a modified console bad things will happen.. fyi

ymmv

 

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4 hours ago, arcadeshopper said:

clearly stated on this page: https://www.keelog.com/ti-99-4a-psu-oled-digital-black-us-replacement-ti-99-4a-power-supply-us-plug/

you must modify your console to use this supply

I DID notice the link dhe posted was saying regulated DC 12V and 5V, and was just "that sounds non-functional levels of wrong".

 

At least it is wrong on the side of "no damage to unmodified console", but I suspect he found something that works for Commodore 64, realized it was useful for other platforms with a connector swap... and is trying to expand his market beyond what is reasonable.

 

Regardless of the reasons, this is irksome. He wouldn't do this to a Commodore 64(he uses a design with 9VAC for that). But for the TI? Eh, screw it, slap the plug on and include a footnote somewhere about requiring internal modification.

Edited by JB
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It does have the advantage of replacing both the internal and the external portions of the power supply though, @JB. Anyone using one just needs to find a way to forcefully identify the fact that the console has been modified though (like a huge red sticker that says DC only inputs--an AC power supply will destroy this machine).

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13 minutes ago, Ksarul said:

It does have the advantage of replacing both the internal and the external portions of the power supply though, @JB. Anyone using one just needs to find a way to forcefully identify the fact that the console has been modified though (like a huge red sticker that says DC only inputs--an AC power supply will destroy this machine).

I prefer a entirely different connector on the back. for instance this board I'm building right now has dc to dc converters and you just use a 12v barrel plug on the back.. it replaces the internal board and has the power switch as well 

 

it's not the best design though, could be better..  we've talked on the zoom about it and possibly designing something with less board and easier to build.. 

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1 minute ago, arcadeshopper said:

I prefer a entirely different connector on the back. for instance this board I'm building right now has dc to dc converters and you just use a 12v barrel plug on the back.. it replaces the internal board and has the power switch as well 

 

it's not the best design though, could be better..  we've talked on the zoom about it and possibly designing something with less board and easier to build.. 

Not a bad idea--plug extender that puts the TI receptacle outside the console and a DIN plug into the console hole. Then if you make the pinout the same on the DIN as the pinout on an ELPAC or meanwell, you could use any of them to power the console interchangeably.

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1 hour ago, RXB said:

I have in my attic like 20 of these TI power supply units. Never had one go bad on me yet!

Yep I have boxes of them.. there's no shortage of power boards or external supplies..  

the only benefit of swapping out the internal supply is heat and newer components.

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  • 1 month later...
On 4/2/2022 at 6:09 PM, dhe said:

Has anyone tried one of these?

https://www.keelog.com/power-supply/#ti99

 

 

I did pick one of these up.  Decided to look into getting it working.  So since I have some time while I wait for the 838-IO Plus boards to be made i started digging into it.

 

I should have noticed this before I ever purchased it.

 

So the keelog site states take the 4 wires from the connector that goes to the internal power supply board and remove them.  There is an issue with that one statement as there are not 4 wires.  There are only 3 for the 99/4A (not QI - QI's only have 2 wires).  The 3 deliver:

 

  • Red = +5v
  • Black = +8v
  • White = +16v

 

So there is no fourth wire for GND.  You would have to solder one to the original connector.

 

I am working on a board design that will have spots to solder or plug these wires in.  I also plan on making a separate breakout for +5 and GND to power JediMatt42's USB Keys (v1.0).  My updated version 2.0 will just plug and play.

 

I want to be able to not worry about cutting and splicing on the mainboard connector at all.  If I could locate (highly doubtful) a new male 4 pin power plug that the TI uses then I could definitely make it completely plug and play.  I have been looking for that connector for quite some time with absolutely no luck.

 

 

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7 hours ago, Shift838 said:

So the keelog site states take the 4 wires from the connector that goes to the internal power supply board and remove them. 

 

That is not what it says at all. It says to cut the 4 wires coming from the motherboard to the PS (power supply)—there are, in fact, 4 wires, one of which is ground.

 

7 hours ago, Shift838 said:

So there is no fourth wire for GND.  You would have to solder one to the original connector.

Exactly what the directions say to do. 

 

It certainly does say to cut the 3 wires going from the PS to the external PS connector, but clearly does not identify one of those 3 wires as ground. The modification relies on the 3-wire input socket having 4 pins, even though one is not wired. It is that fourth pin to which the directions say to solder the cut console ground wire.

 

Of course, the Keelog solution will not work for the QI console because the QI PS input socket only has 2 pins.

 

...lee

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The 4-pin MOLEX connectors between the power supply and the main board are still in production. I hunted some of them down a few years ago to replace one on one of my machines. I was able to find both types (the later type and the early type), although it was a bit harder to find the early style ones (with the "V" shape at one end). The connectors at the back of the TI that the AC power supply plugs into are much more difficult. I've seen them for sale a few times over the years, but I don't think anyone is still actively manufacturing them.

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1 hour ago, Ksarul said:

Here's a 3-pin substitute connector. . .as pretty much the only way you are going to get one of the 4-prong types would be to sacrifice one of the early revision power supplies. The 3-pin connectors (PH-163 type) are uncommon but not yet unobtainium, as are the 2-pin types.

maybe we could 3d print one that has the holes in the right place and mount wires and male ends some how.  that would not be too hard to do.

 

 

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KeeLog seems to have good technical support. Maybe you could explain why their product sucks for the TI and they don't sell more. -- And here is how you can fix that (that's the part you would need to explain to them).

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2 hours ago, dhe said:

KeeLog seems to have good technical support. Maybe you could explain why their product sucks for the TI and they don't sell more. -- And here is how you can fix that (that's the part you would need to explain to them).

I am already chatting with someone around it...

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so i measured the power pins on the back of the TI and i believe I found some solid post that are close enough to the measurements.

 

My plan is to make a simple PCB that is the same size as the power connector on the back of the TI with the mount holes for the posts in the same spots.   Solder the post directly in the mount holes , then make a connector that plugs directly on the board  (I have quite a few of those) and solder the connector to the PCB.

 

I have posts coming in the mail, so hopefully when they get here I can start on it.  Yet, just another project to keep me busy...

 

 

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  • 6 months later...
On 5/4/2022 at 9:12 PM, Shift838 said:

My plan is to make a simple PCB that is the same size as the power connector on the back of the TI with the mount holes for the posts in the same spots.   Solder the post directly in the mount holes , then make a connector that plugs directly on the board  (I have quite a few of those) and solder the connector to the PCB.

 

If those pins work, you could add a fifth unused pin to act as a key to prevent an original power plug from connecting to it. Hopefully, you can drill a matching hole in the Keelog plug. 

 

On 5/4/2022 at 9:12 PM, Shift838 said:

 

 

 

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