NoxSicarius Posted July 11, 2022 Share Posted July 11, 2022 I read through a few of these black screen topics, but I'm still coming up short here. I'm assuming it's due to my lack of knowledge on the console, but I feel like I'm going a bit crazy now. I noticed that VR2 reads about 5v and VR1 reads nothing. I found the schematics and traced the power. I have continuity between Q6 and VR1 so no broken bus. I see Q6 is showing 12v and Q7 is showing 0.7, but Q7 runs to VR2 and that is showing 5v. I would assume that means I should see some kind of voltage at VR1 because i'm getting 12 at Q6, but I get nothing. Maybe I'm checking the pins wrong, but is Q6 really borked? I find it odd it's showing 12v and Q7 runs 0.7. I did replace the VR1 7805 with a new one and I see no voltage still and get no heat, which is what's crazy to me. Looking at the 3 pins of Q6, I get no read testing between the left and right leads, but left and middle or right and middle result in 12v. Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong here? Is there something that sits between Q6 and VR1 I'm not seeing? Or is Q6 actually busted and I'm thinking about this all wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+x=usr(1536) Posted July 12, 2022 Share Posted July 12, 2022 Is this a 2-port or 4-port console? Going off of memory on this one, but IIRC both Q6 and Q7 are tied to the 4013. Replace that IC and see what happens; it's used to handle the state of the power switch. Also check Q8-Q10. Had problems with them on my 2-port that caused the 4013 to appear faulty when it wasn't. Finally, grab a copy of the 5200 FSM (if you haven't already); it'll make your life a lot easier. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoxSicarius Posted July 19, 2022 Author Share Posted July 19, 2022 (edited) On 7/12/2022 at 6:44 AM, x=usr(1536) said: Is this a 2-port or 4-port console? Going off of memory on this one, but IIRC both Q6 and Q7 are tied to the 4013. Replace that IC and see what happens; it's used to handle the state of the power switch. Also check Q8-Q10. Had problems with them on my 2-port that caused the 4013 to appear faulty when it wasn't. Finally, grab a copy of the 5200 FSM (if you haven't already); it'll make your life a lot easier. Good luck! 4 port original with the spark box. Ordered the 4013 today, backordered sadly. I assumed VR1 because I hear the spark box click over, it powers on, and the screen just goes black with no audio. Below is the schematic. To my novice views, it looks like if q6 and 7 are getting voltage, 4013 should be fine right? or am I missing something with that chip. The only other idea I have is maybe the MJE210 is messed up, but that doesn't seem the case. Edited July 19, 2022 by NoxSicarius Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+-^CrossBow^- Posted July 19, 2022 Share Posted July 19, 2022 8 hours ago, NoxSicarius said: 4 port original with the spark box. Ordered the 4013 today, backordered sadly. Backorder from where? Console5 has them in stock... https://console5.com/store/catalogsearch/result/?q=4013 Also, are you getting input voltage to both VRs? On average the VRs should be receiving about 10v +|- on the input side of them. It sounds like you only measured the voltage on the output side of the VRs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoxSicarius Posted July 19, 2022 Author Share Posted July 19, 2022 7 hours ago, -^CrossBow^- said: Backorder from where? Console5 has them in stock... https://console5.com/store/catalogsearch/result/?q=4013 Also, are you getting input voltage to both VRs? On average the VRs should be receiving about 10v +|- on the input side of them. It sounds like you only measured the voltage on the output side of the VRs? Oof. mouser and digikey have it backorded. the sites I use for most of my electronics pieces. hope i can cancel. thanks for sending it. i'll try a few things and see where this goes. i'm sure voltage is getting to vr1 because i have continuity between vr1 and q6 and q6 is getting voltage. vr2 is is working and getting warm. vr1 stays cold Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+-^CrossBow^- Posted July 19, 2022 Share Posted July 19, 2022 I realize you don't have any breaks in the trace between q6 and vr1, but are you actually getting measurable voltage to vr1's input side? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoxSicarius Posted July 19, 2022 Author Share Posted July 19, 2022 13 minutes ago, -^CrossBow^- said: I realize you don't have any breaks in the trace between q6 and vr1, but are you actually getting measurable voltage to vr1's input side? i wa just checking. 12v to the input leg. maybe my replacement 7805 is dead too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+-^CrossBow^- Posted July 19, 2022 Share Posted July 19, 2022 I would try a different 7805 as it should be producing a solid +5v output. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoxSicarius Posted July 19, 2022 Author Share Posted July 19, 2022 19 minutes ago, -^CrossBow^- said: I would try a different 7805 as it should be producing a solid +5v output. I'm wondering if the issue isn't the q6 mje210. q6 doesn't get arm and is passing a full 12v. q7 gets hot and passes a much smaller voltage. Does it sound like q6 might be it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+-^CrossBow^- Posted July 19, 2022 Share Posted July 19, 2022 Possibly but you stated you are getting +12 to the input of VR1? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoxSicarius Posted July 21, 2022 Author Share Posted July 21, 2022 On 7/19/2022 at 7:24 PM, -^CrossBow^- said: Possibly but you stated you are getting +12 to the input of VR1? ya, looks like it is, but i'm wondering if my meter is acting up. i'm getting anew one because I saw voltage on a trace when unplugged. I've got the parts coming in soon so I'm gonna replace q6 and the chip then see where it goes. Probably won't fix it, but considering q6 isn't warm at all, it might at least help. the weird thing is my meter reads small voltage at q7 output but 12v at q6 out. i'm thinking q6 is just passing the voltage through and not actually working Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoxSicarius Posted August 12, 2022 Author Share Posted August 12, 2022 Well I replaced Q6, VR1, and the flip flop with no change. I did notice that C38 and C51 are both seeing voltage, but not C37. I'm not seeing the voltage at VR1 anymore. Pretty sure that meter was wonky. So would not getting voltage across C37 cause this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoxSicarius Posted August 12, 2022 Author Share Posted August 12, 2022 The only other items I think may be causing it is r56 or r57. Otherwise I'm at a complete loss. But I just realized, should I be testing this with a game in the unit? I have not been doing so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+-^CrossBow^- Posted August 12, 2022 Share Posted August 12, 2022 24 minutes ago, NoxSicarius said: The only other items I think may be causing it is r56 or r57. Otherwise I'm at a complete loss. But I just realized, should I be testing this with a game in the unit? I have not been doing so. the 5200 will power on without a game. But of course you do only get a blank screen without a game loaded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoxSicarius Posted August 12, 2022 Author Share Posted August 12, 2022 18 hours ago, -^CrossBow^- said: the 5200 will power on without a game. But of course you do only get a blank screen without a game loaded. That's what I assumed. The manual states that my general issue is most commonly q6 r56 or 57. So I'll go in on 56 and 57 next. For r57, it has a 330ohm metal film resistor. Is it fine to replace this with a standard 330ohm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+-^CrossBow^- Posted August 13, 2022 Share Posted August 13, 2022 Due to the heat and voltage those need to be metal film type. However, I think the 330ohm is a miss print. I've got two donor parts boards that still have the factory resistors on them and they both have a pair of 182ohm 5% resistors on them. Combined they would be about 360ohm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoxSicarius Posted August 19, 2022 Author Share Posted August 19, 2022 R57 on mine is the same as yours. Looks like it is 182. However I have seen that some later produced boards used these. I've got some stray resistors laying around though finding a 182 may be rough. 330 is far easier to come by. If I can find any i'll swap out 57 and see if it at least functions. then I can do something to deal with the heat, either get a proper one or get jankey with it and slap a heat sponge on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+-^CrossBow^- Posted August 19, 2022 Share Posted August 19, 2022 9 hours ago, NoxSicarius said: R57 on mine is the same as yours. Looks like it is 182. However I have seen that some later produced boards used these. I've got some stray resistors laying around though finding a 182 may be rough. 330 is far easier to come by. If I can find any i'll swap out 57 and see if it at least functions. then I can do something to deal with the heat, either get a proper one or get jankey with it and slap a heat sponge on it. The last 5200 I had doing something similar ended up being Q7 as the issue even though it seemed to be good in circuit. I had first replaced out Q6 and when they didn't work, I went ahead and took q7 out and put the original q6 into q7 and the system came up after that. In fact, if you look at the first pic I posted above again, you will see that q6 is missing. Testing those resistors is just a matter of lifting one of the legs out of circuit and then using your meter to see what the resistance is reading as. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoxSicarius Posted August 23, 2022 Author Share Posted August 23, 2022 On 8/19/2022 at 9:05 AM, -^CrossBow^- said: The last 5200 I had doing something similar ended up being Q7 as the issue even though it seemed to be good in circuit. I had first replaced out Q6 and when they didn't work, I went ahead and took q7 out and put the original q6 into q7 and the system came up after that. In fact, if you look at the first pic I posted above again, you will see that q6 is missing. Testing those resistors is just a matter of lifting one of the legs out of circuit and then using your meter to see what the resistance is reading as. I'll go ahead and replace q7 first. I have a whole box of those suckers. I was thinking of doing that anyway because I feel the reading on q7 is weird. Just seems too low for powered on. If that doesn't work, i'll replace them resistors. I found a whole pack of 182 so I'm good to test that if q7 doesn't work. If none of that does, maybe the friken vr1 I put in was bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+-^CrossBow^- Posted August 23, 2022 Share Posted August 23, 2022 12 hours ago, NoxSicarius said: I'll go ahead and replace q7 first. I have a whole box of those suckers. I was thinking of doing that anyway because I feel the reading on q7 is weird. Just seems too low for powered on. If that doesn't work, i'll replace them resistors. I found a whole pack of 182 so I'm good to test that if q7 doesn't work. If none of that does, maybe the friken vr1 I put in was bad. Not sure where or when you got your 7805s. But I got in a batch of them recently and I will state that 2 of the last 20 or so, have been bad. They were receiving as much as 14v input, but only putting out about 2-3v on the output side. Very strange. Had it just last week in fact with a brand new 7805 I put in to replace an aging one into a 2600 and was completely frustrated by it for a good hour before I went back to test it and sure enough... 7805 appeared to be the issue. Replaced it with another one and the system came right up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoxSicarius Posted August 24, 2022 Author Share Posted August 24, 2022 Got mine from digi key. I've been running more checks on things. R56 and 57 aren't getting voltage, but they seem to be reading the proper resistance. R57 doesn't get hot, but r58 gets BLISTERING. So it seems i'm not getting power to the entire circuit area. I found a diagnostics section with info on the problem. As you can see, the problem may be on point 2. Point 2 seems to be listed as CI2 (c eye 2). I'm assuming it's an I and not a one because the 1 looks different on here. That or a lower case L. Can someone tell me what this point 2 is on the board? I'm beginning to fear it might be J1 and I have no idea where to get one of them other than a busted console. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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