Trouble with Second player port working for a few minutes then dying (Sears Intellivision)

[8bitwidgets.com]

Pretty much it.  Seems like when it's off for awhile it comes back but when it's been on for maybe 5-10 min it just stops responding..  first player continues to work without issue.  

 

A quick off / on doesn't resolve it, but if it's been left off for a period of time like say an hour.. it comes back.  

 

Has anyone seen anything like this occur before?   It's like something might be getting over heated?   or maybe a capacitor that gets used for awhile stops working?    

[walldog1]

1 hour ago, Caleb Garner said:

Seems like when it's off for awhile it comes back but when it's been on for maybe 5-10 min it just stops responding..

Do all controller functions die or just some? It sounds like the whole controller quits on you from my reading. Remember that both controllers run thru the Sound Chip. It's an electronic component that a problem could be responding to it's internal temperature.

 

Since it is a Sears, try switching the 2 controllers where they plug into the DB9 connectors. Does the problem follow the controller OR stay with the DB9 Port? If problem stays with the DB9 Port, I would say you most likely need a different AY-3-8914 IC Chip. But all wiring and connections to the Sound Chip should be checked out also.

 

I have new AY-3-8914 GI chips, manufactured in 2017 in Taiwan for sale if interested. I have a listing on eBay. I tried to reorder more recently but no more response to my e-mails. So these are the last of the new ones.......for now.

[8bitwidgets.com]

I need to test more throughly.  when it goes i think it goes completely after the thing has been off for some time it works again so it definitely seems like a heat thing.  

 

The port is definitely the issue.  I have done control swapping direct to the unit.  the port doesn't feel damaged or lose.   the cables and controller all work fine under all circumstances on the left port.  

 

I have a spare first gen intellivision i could borrow parts from.  I forget what problem it had.  i think it just didn't do anything but show black.. something really basic like that..  

 

 

[walldog1]

3 hours ago, Caleb Garner said:

I have a spare first gen intellivision i could borrow parts from.

I would go ahead a swap the sound chip from your other unit. It won't hurt to try unless your chip is soldered directly to the board which makes it a little more challenging.

[8bitwidgets.com]

19 minutes ago, walldog1 said:

soldered directly to the board

I don't know for sure but i THINK it's socketed not soldered..  anyway i'll know soon..  work space is a bit of a mess right now, but i know which tub its in..  =D 

[+-^CrossBow^-]

Could also be a loose or cold solder joint where the cable plugs into the main board that once the heat gets to a point, it looses connections. The 2nd player port is right near the main power transformer and they do get pretty warm plus the rest of the heat trapping RF shielding inside those early models.

 

[8bitwidgets.com]

On 11/7/2022 at 6:41 PM, -^CrossBow^- said:

The 2nd player port is right near the main power transformer

yea that certainly seems like a good possibility.  Will try the easy stuff first but it may come to that.  i've not opened a sears machine before only the original system.  

[+-^CrossBow^-]

8 hours ago, Caleb Garner said:

yea that certainly seems like a good possibility.  Will try the easy stuff first but it may come to that.  i've not opened a sears machine before only the original system.  

Sears units open the same way the original models do. The ONLY difference is that the tray along the center is of a different mold of course and that instead of the controller being plugged into the main board, you have controller wire harnesses that plug into the main board with the DB9 ends snapped into place onto the center tray. But all of the screws are found in the exact same places. 

 

Okay I misspoke, another difference in the Sears unit is that one of the case screws is shorter than the others. It is the one that goes into the center front of the shell. It is smaller because there is less plastic there due to that being where the controllers sit. If you use the wrong size screw there when putting it back together, you will end up with the screw poking up through the plastic. So yeah... make sure you keep track of that shorter case screw for that particular spot.

 

[walldog1]

5 hours ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

Okay I misspoke, another difference in the Sears unit is that one of the case screws is shorter than the others

<CrossBow>, you are the Wikipedia of all old gaming system! I still have never repaired a Sears unit but you have taught me most all the differences between it and a Mattel 2609. Too bad I'll never get a chance to repair one due to my last tests by Dr's.😥

 

Good luck Caleb on your disassembly. If no frayed wiring or bad solder joints, Sound Chip swap should solve your issue I hope.

[8bitwidgets.com]

Thanks guys for the tips!   I'm excited to figure out what's going on.  Will definitely report back when I open it (for science!)