Got 5200 as part of a retro lot--next steps?

[iscariot]

I got a 5200 and some carts as part of a lot that I purchased.  It's one of the 4 port models.  At present I only have an 800XL that I use with S-Video and the 5200 has a video connector that needs an RF connection.  Is there something I can do in order to test this?  The controllers appear to be in pretty lousy shape.

[+-^CrossBow^-]

Unless that 4port has been power modded, it will require the combo power/switch box for it. Looks like this:

 

 

 

[iscariot]

OMG that is what that is?  Ok.  So the power plugs into the video box?  Is there a way to plug this into composite video or something?

[+-^CrossBow^-]

8 minutes ago, iscariot said:

OMG that is what that is?  Ok.  So the power plugs into the video box?  Is there a way to plug this into composite video or something?

No. it is RF output only unless you upgrade the system to provide composite, s-video, or even RGB output from it.

 

What you need to do to test it is plug the end of the switchbox to your ANT coax input on the TV, then plug the power cord into the switch box. Then ...last....then you plug the PSU into the wall outlet.

 

Plug in a game and power it on. You might have to have your TV scan for new channels on the ANT side while it is powered up in order for it to be 'seen' and locked onto for a signal.

 

 

[iscariot]

Will modern TVs even do that?  I thought they only did ATSC now

[+-^CrossBow^-]

15 minutes ago, iscariot said:

Will modern TVs even do that?  I thought they only did ATSC now

Depends. My current LG might not be able to do it, but my previous Sony Bravia from about 3 years ago still had that ability. Just have to give it a go and see. Again, the console needs to be powered on with a game inserted so the video signal can be seen by the TV. If that doesn't work, then you can also use an old VCR.

 

Plug the 5200 switch box into the ANT in on the VCR. Then you should be able to use the VCRs composite RCA outputs back to the TV.

 

 

[BIGHMW]

...unless you connect that RF box to ONE OF THESE THINGS!!!

 

 

[iscariot]

Ok.  I tried all my "real" TVs and got nothing.  My neighbor has a really old LCD with an antenna in that I was able to get hooked up.  I can get as far as the title screen on the 5200 with a bunch of the games.  The controllers--eh.  I can't get either one to work.  I'm not sure if I can/should rehab them or anything like that.  Nothing, nothing at all works.  None of the buttons or anything work.  I'm not super married to the 5200, I'm wondering if I should sell this as a lot, or try getting things going.  It's got the box, a bunch of carts, the original 5200 box, 2 original controllers, 2 wico controllers with Y adapters, the PSU, etc.  This thing is MASSIVE.  I didn't remember how big one of these was.

[duckodb]

If your only getting the title screen when you put a game in and not getting past that to a preview of the game playing and giving the option to select one or two players and the difficulty level you haven’t gotten to a point where the controllers will work yet. Sometimes when the cartridges are dirty you get that title screen with different letters or numbers flashing for a few seconds then the Atari logo turns yellow and it freezes there. Try cleaning the game contacts with a qtip and alcohol. Still some of mine have to be wiggled around a certain way to work. 

[+x=usr(1536)]

4 hours ago, iscariot said:

I tried all my "real" TVs and got nothing.  My neighbor has a really old LCD with an antenna in that I was able to get hooked up.

Makes sense: a lot of newer TVs no longer have analogue tuners built-in and can only receive digital channels.

4 hours ago, iscariot said:

The controllers--eh.  I can't get either one to work.  I'm not sure if I can/should rehab them or anything like that.

They're pretty easy to refurbish, and work well once that's been done.

4 hours ago, iscariot said:

Nothing, nothing at all works.  None of the buttons or anything work.

Not uncommon, but easily repaired.  I've resuscitated completely-dead controllers with some cleaning; others have required mylar and keypad replacement.  POKEY may need replacement, but focussing on the controllers first would make sense.

4 hours ago, iscariot said:

I'm not super married to the 5200, I'm wondering if I should sell this as a lot, or try getting things going.

One that's refurbed and fully-working is going to fetch a better price than one that's only partially-functional.

[Ecernosoft]

On 12/29/2022 at 4:30 PM, iscariot said:

OMG that is what that is?  Ok.  So the power plugs into the video box?  Is there a way to plug this into composite video or something?

Your first reaction to the awful 5200 video/power box? Lol

[+-^CrossBow^-]

42 minutes ago, Ecernosoft said:

Your first reaction to the awful 5200 video/power box? Lol

People here can hate on it all they want. But the fact is, that Atari was trying to be innovative and make the setup and use easier for folks. You have to remember that back then, many homes didn't have nearly as many power outlets along the walls as they do these days. That is one of the reasons the power cord on the 2600 is so stinking long was because Atari wanted to make sure that it would reach where the console was going to be placed/used. In the case of the 5200, they had to do something different because the controller cables were much shorter. As a result, it meant the 5200 was more likely to be placed on a coffee table or something to that effect. Atari was trying to minimize the amount of cables going to the console and going across your floor. They also wanted the system to essentially be automatic so you just popped in a game, turned your TV to channel 3 and tuned on the system. The original switch boxes they used prior to this required the person to also get up and flip the switch from TV to GAME before they could use the system.

 

Look, it isn't super ideal today, but back in the early 80s it was pretty cool and 'modern'. 

 

As everyone knows, Atari did eventually go back to the 2 cable setup with the 2port design and later made 4ports. But really it isn't as big a deal as everyone makes it out to be. And even if that box is missing or broken, it isn't terribly difficult to retro fit the console to no longer require it.

 

 

[Ecernosoft]

3 hours ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

People here can hate on it all they want. But the fact is, that Atari was trying to be innovative and make the setup and use easier for folks. You have to remember that back then, many homes didn't have nearly as many power outlets along the walls as they do these days. That is one of the reasons the power cord on the 2600 is so stinking long was because Atari wanted to make sure that it would reach where the console was going to be placed/used. In the case of the 5200, they had to do something different because the controller cables were much shorter. As a result, it meant the 5200 was more likely to be placed on a coffee table or something to that effect. Atari was trying to minimize the amount of cables going to the console and going across your floor. They also wanted the system to essentially be automatic so you just popped in a game, turned your TV to channel 3 and tuned on the system. The original switch boxes they used prior to this required the person to also get up and flip the switch from TV to GAME before they could use the system.

 

Look, it isn't super ideal today, but back in the early 80s it was pretty cool and 'modern'. 

 

As everyone knows, Atari did eventually go back to the 2 cable setup with the 2port design and later made 4ports. But really it isn't as big a deal as everyone makes it out to be. And even if that box is missing or broken, it isn't terribly difficult to retro fit the console to no longer require it.

 

 

You are right though.

 

[iscariot]

4 hours ago, x=usr(1536) said:

Makes sense: a lot of newer TVs no longer have analogue tuners built-in and can only receive digital channels.

They're pretty easy to refurbish, and work well once that's been done.

Not uncommon, but easily repaired.  I've resuscitated completely-dead controllers with some cleaning; others have required mylar and keypad replacement.  POKEY may need replacement, but focussing on the controllers first would make sense.

One that's refurbed and fully-working is going to fetch a better price than one that's only partially-functional.

Is there a good place for this stuff?  I bought my 800 video enhancement from TBA.  I found some stuff on eBay as well.  Is Best Electronics the place to go?  I see plenty of stuff there.

Edited December 31, 2022 by iscariot
More info

[+x=usr(1536)]

1 hour ago, iscariot said:

Is there a good place for this stuff?  I bought my 800 video enhancement from TBA.  I found some stuff on eBay as well.  Is Best Electronics the place to go?  I see plenty of stuff there.

For video upgrades, I've been going with the UAV from The Brewing Academy pretty much across the board.  The 5200 is capable of running a Sophia 2, though, so that may be an option.

 

For the controller parts, yes, I would strongly recommend Best.  Their stuff is solid, and I'm very happy with how their mylars and keypads perform in my controllers.

 

Best also has POKEYs, but they're a one-per-lifetime purchase.  Probably better to keep that in reserve and find an alternative source for them (7800 Ballblazer / Commando cartridges).  Then again, if you don't need one, so much the better

 

I've also bought stuff from console5.com amongst others.  It really just depends on what you need / want to do with the machine; if you have specific ideas in that regard, let us know what they are and you'll probably receive more opinions than you ever expected

[iscariot]

15 hours ago, x=usr(1536) said:

For video upgrades, I've been going with the UAV from The Brewing Academy pretty much across the board.  The 5200 is capable of running a Sophia 2, though, so that may be an option.

 

For the controller parts, yes, I would strongly recommend Best.  Their stuff is solid, and I'm very happy with how their mylars and keypads perform in my controllers.

 

Best also has POKEYs, but they're a one-per-lifetime purchase.  Probably better to keep that in reserve and find an alternative source for them (7800 Ballblazer / Commando cartridges).  Then again, if you don't need one, so much the better

 

I've also bought stuff from console5.com amongst others.  It really just depends on what you need / want to do with the machine; if you have specific ideas in that regard, let us know what they are and you'll probably receive more opinions than you ever expected

Ok.  Right now I need to start with the controllers.  They're literally falling apart, like the bezel holding the start/pause/reset buttons literally falls off.  I guess best will be my first stop.  I was considering a Sofia for my 800XL I mentioned another thread but it seems they're always out of stock.

Edited January 1 by iscariot
More info

[+x=usr(1536)]

1 hour ago, iscariot said:

Right now I need to start with the controllers.

Good call.  If they aren't working, there's no good way to test anything else.

1 hour ago, iscariot said:

They're literally falling apart, like the bezel holding the start/pause/reset buttons literally falls off.

Dunno if Best sells that bezel, but it has two tabs that hold it in place.  If those are broken off, your only real option is to glue it in down, but that makes disassembly and reassembly very fiddly.

 

Late edit: forgot to mention that testing the controller cables for continuity with a multimeter would be a good first step.  It's not unknown for them to develop internal breaks in the wiring, and no mylar is going to fix that.

[marauder666]

I see the Rf/Power over one cable as forward thinking.  Something similar exists today, power over ethernet, or 48V phantom power on microphones.  AC and DC current can exist independently on cables.

 

[duckodb]

6 hours ago, x=usr(1536) said:

 

 

Late edit: forgot to mention that testing the controller cables for continuity with a multimeter would be a good first step.  It's not unknown for them to develop internal breaks in the wiring, and no mylar is going to fix that.

It’s sure not, ive got 2

that work perfect as long as the cable is bent over to the right where it comes out and held along the right side of the controller, ive got gorilla tape holding them in that position at the moment.

[iscariot]

On 1/1/2023 at 10:13 AM, x=usr(1536) said:

Good call.  If they aren't working, there's no good way to test anything else.

Dunno if Best sells that bezel, but it has two tabs that hold it in place.  If those are broken off, your only real option is to glue it in down, but that makes disassembly and reassembly very fiddly.

 

Late edit: forgot to mention that testing the controller cables for continuity with a multimeter would be a good first step.  It's not unknown for them to develop internal breaks in the wiring, and no mylar is going to fix that.

Hmm.  I'm wondering how hard it would be to make a 3d-printed part for that.  Doubtful that there's a huge demand though.

[+-^CrossBow^-]

1 hour ago, iscariot said:

Hmm.  I'm wondering how hard it would be to make a 3d-printed part for that.  Doubtful that there's a huge demand though.

I disagree on that. I've had several break on me over the years no matter how careful I am. Although I've had those tabs break off, I've got at least 3 controller tops where the opposite happened. When I was removing the bezel, it actually broke the plastic on the top shell where the tab would snap under. On those, I have no choice but to scrap the rest of the controller top parts for use with other controllers.

 

[iscariot]

57 minutes ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

I disagree on that. I've had several break on me over the years no matter how careful I am. Although I've had those tabs break off, I've got at least 3 controller tops where the opposite happened. When I was removing the bezel, it actually broke the plastic on the top shell where the tab would snap under. On those, I have no choice but to scrap the rest of the controller top parts for use with other controllers.

 

Hmmm.  Maybe this is something to think about then.  My modeling skills aren't very good but this might be an excuse to get better.

[+-^CrossBow^-]

12 minutes ago, iscariot said:

Hmmm.  Maybe this is something to think about then.  My modeling skills aren't very good but this might be an excuse to get better.

To be clear, I do think that replacement bezels would be a nice thing to have available. But just wanted to state that I've had the top shells break a small portion off as well, although maybe not quite as often as the tabs on the bezels.

 

[Ecernosoft]

On 12/31/2022 at 1:49 PM, iscariot said:

Is there a good place for this stuff?  I bought my 800 video enhancement from TBA.  I found some stuff on eBay as well.  Is Best Electronics the place to go?  I see plenty of stuff there.

Wait! Don't give up.

 

We've been able to find TV's (Particularly from Best buy) that HAVE the RF jack on them and most do a decent job. It's not perfect but It's pretty good.

[0078265317]

On 12/31/2022 at 11:31 AM, x=usr(1536) said:

Makes sense: a lot of newer TVs no longer have analogue tuners built-in and can only receive digital channels.

They're pretty easy to refurbish, and work well once that's been done.

Not uncommon, but easily repaired.  I've resuscitated completely-dead controllers with some cleaning; others have required mylar and keypad replacement.  POKEY may need replacement, but focussing on the controllers first would make sense.

One that's refurbed and fully-working is going to fetch a better price than one that's only partially-functional.

You mean no coax on some newer tvs.  They how do you play anything made before the millennium after all my tis break.  If there is no coax or rca then I can't hook up my vcr.