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Need help diagnosing hardware problems


FoxMachine

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A few weeks ago I was playing some games with a FG99, and I have no idea what happened, but after resetting a game with the button on the cartridge, my computer won't turn on anymore. The red light comes on, but there's no video signal going out to the TV, and the light on the cartridge doesn't come on either. I noticed I could hear a faint noise when I turned it on, and when I left it, it started to grow into a loud hum until I shut it off. I'm kind of terrified this thing's gonna blow. If I somehow fried it, I'll genuinely be kind of sad considering this is the first retro computer I've owned.

The only other thing I could think of that could be a reason for something going wrong is the Atari controller adapter I had plugged in, but I'm not sure how that would cause problems.

 

Does anyone have any idea what could be the problem?

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@FoxMachine, what are your available troubleshooting tools?

As @HOME AUTOMATION has noted, sounds like a PS issue.

Time to open it up and do a visual inspection. Also look close at your brick. They can get very warm normally but a really hot one is bad juju.

A smell inspection will help too. - Magic smoke stinks even before an escape.

 

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14 minutes ago, Duewester said:

@FoxMachine, what are your available troubleshooting tools?

As @HOME AUTOMATION has noted, sounds like a PS issue.

Time to open it up and do a visual inspection. Also look close at your brick. They can get very warm normally but a really hot one is bad juju.

A smell inspection will help too. - Magic smoke stinks even before an escape.

 

It definitely gets hot. If I opened it up,what indicators would be there to tell me what's wrong? Aside from that bad capacitor, I suppose.

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Come to think of it, I believe the RESET circuitry goes to the clock-chip. Some, perhaps older 4A's, used a clock-chip, that required a heatsink. I blew-out that chip while carrying out some "tests" on my first 4A. So, maybe there is something to the reset-theory.:twisted:

 

  P.S. The clock-chip, on mine, was socketed.

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1 hour ago, HOME AUTOMATION said:

Come to think of it, I believe the RESET circuitry goes to the clock-chip. Some, perhaps older 4A's, used a clock-chip, that required a heatsink. I blew-out that chip while carrying out some "tests" on my first 4A. So, maybe there is something to the reset-theory.:twisted:

 

  P.S. The clock-chip, on mine, was socketed.

Mine have been 50-50 socketed but all the same chip. 3 black and silver and one tan.

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1 hour ago, FoxMachine said:

It definitely gets hot. If I opened it up,what indicators would be there to tell me what's wrong? Aside from that bad capacitor, I suppose.

Opening the brick wouldn't be my first choice of fun things to do before New Years. A.) It's sealed and B.) it's a honking big transformer.

@arcadeshopper is correct. Check the voltages out of the transformer/brick.

Just curious, but have you been leaving the power supply plugged in even when not in use?

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50 minutes ago, Duewester said:

Opening the brick wouldn't be my first choice of fun things to do before New Years. A.) It's sealed and B.) it's a honking big transformer.

@arcadeshopper is correct. Check the voltages out of the transformer/brick.

Just curious, but have you been leaving the power supply plugged in even when not in use?

Yes, I have. Should have known better, I suppose.

 

Also, a question to all of you in general. In the case that the brick is the problem, would it be better to buy one of those new replacement power supplies instead of getting one that works, then will potentially break again? They seem to cost only about $30 or so more.

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34 minutes ago, FoxMachine said:

Yes, I have. Should have known better, I suppose.

 

Also, a question to all of you in general. In the case that the brick is the problem, would it be better to buy one of those new replacement power supplies instead of getting one that works, then will potentially break again? They seem to cost only about $30 or so more.

I'd be surprised if your supply is the issue.. its likely the INTERNAL one.. which is detailed here https://www.arcadeshopper.com/wp/ti-99-4a-faq-power-supplies/

 

the "new replacement" supplies are not a direct replacement they replace both supplys and require you to solder connectors and make internal changes to the console

 

I have plenty of the original supplys in stock in my store

 

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1 minute ago, arcadeshopper said:

I'd be surprised if your supply is the issue.. its likely the INTERNAL one.. which is detailed here https://www.arcadeshopper.com/wp/ti-99-4a-faq-power-supplies/

 

the "new replacement" supplies are not a direct replacement they replace both supplys and require you to solder connectors and make internal changes to the console

 

I have plenty of the original supplys in stock in my store

 

Ohhhh I see. Had no idea it was the internal one. So the external one should be fine?

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@FoxMachine, @arcadeshopper is correct - "Should means nothing". My personal experience has been bad bricks. One dead when I got it (it eventually turned out to be the aftermarket fuse that TI installed in line to the brick), One I killed by leaving plugged in (did not have the fuse). However, I have not had a bad internal power supply (knock on wood, salt over shoulder, kiss the horseshoe and chop off the rabbits foot). Should I ever have one go bad I have some old ATX power supplies and I will use one of them instead of buying something.

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