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Would someone be able to direct me, or help me with a few things?


82-T/A

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Ideally, I'm looking for a good site that deals specifically in arcade machine discussions and parts. I used to be on some Google Groups, but it appears that it totally died. The only person who's posted on there in the past 5 years is some crazy guy who blames the NSA for all of his problems. So I'm not sure where to look. I never really thought to check AtariAge, but there doesn't seem to be a lot of traffic in this forum either. Is there a really good / dedicated arcade forum site that you guys use?

 

There are a few things I'm looking to do:

 

1 - I have an otherwise PERFECT Galaga machine, totally restored. Monitor died... I need a new monitor... any ideas? Everything else works.

2 - I have a Missile Command that needs new artwork (my daughter ripped it off when she was 7).

3 - I have a Super PacMan that, while "restored" has been turned into a multi-cade. I'm looking for the following items:

  • Super PacMan Marquee
  • Stencil Kit so I can paint graphics on the front and sides.
  • Rebuild kit (or original replacement) for the joystick
  • Original coin tray.
  • Coin slot parts / etc.

 

I think that's all for now... thanks!!!

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1 hour ago, roadrunner said:

 

Well, that guy certainly could use some support I'd say.

 

There's a site that I've used somewhat in the past... "This Old Arcade" which has nearly everything I want... but everything is on his old site, and it seems like he might be quasi-retired at this point. I had a bunch of things that I requested... and literally over a year went by. He did reach out to me for some Missile Command stuff, saying he was going to make them again, so I paid ahead... but I do miss the excellent conversations I had on that Google Groups forum... maybe it was Yahoo Groups... either way, I haven't seen anything relevant in years except spam and people who need help unrelated to arcade machines.

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11 hours ago, 82-T/A said:

Ideally, I'm looking for a good site that deals specifically in arcade machine discussions and parts. I used to be on some Google Groups, but it appears that it totally died. The only person who's posted on there in the past 5 years is some crazy guy who blames the NSA for all of his problems. So I'm not sure where to look. I never really thought to check AtariAge, but there doesn't seem to be a lot of traffic in this forum either. Is there a really good / dedicated arcade forum site that you guys use?

 

There are a few things I'm looking to do:

 

1 - I have an otherwise PERFECT Galaga machine, totally restored. Monitor died... I need a new monitor... any ideas? Everything else works.

2 - I have a Missile Command that needs new artwork (my daughter ripped it off when she was 7).

3 - I have a Super PacMan that, while "restored" has been turned into a multi-cade. I'm looking for the following items:

  • Super PacMan Marquee
  • Stencil Kit so I can paint graphics on the front and sides.
  • Rebuild kit (or original replacement) for the joystick
  • Original coin tray.
  • Coin slot parts / etc.

 

I think that's all for now... thanks!!!

Have you ever tried the KLOV forum? Guys over there are doing these kinds of things all the time. They might be about to point you in the right direction.

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12 hours ago, pboland said:

Have you ever tried the KLOV forum? Guys over there are doing these kinds of things all the time. They might be about to point you in the right direction.

3 hours ago, schuwalker said:

Pboland, hit it on the head... KLOV is probably the best arcade forum nowadays although site traffic has been down a few years. RGVAC will still always hold the honor of formally being the best one out there -RIP

 

Thank you!!! I appreciate it. I don't view this as a replacement for AtariAge, of course... I'm here for the long haul... but definitely need / want some detailed help on a lot of longer term things I want to do with my arcade machines.

 

Thank you guys, I appreciate it. Just checked it out, I'll register and log in.

 

 

Side note, I found this... https://www.ebay.com/itm/115557333214 ... and just bought it. This solves one of my problems. I was going to rebuild it, but if I have an NOS that's identical, might as well go this route. A bit expensive... but I really beat on that controller.

 

 

Thanks again!!!

 

EDIT: Geeze... that is quite a process to create an account on there. I wonder how many people end up giving up at some point because of how complicated they make it?

Edited by 82-T/A
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These are the two threads I started if anyone cares:

 

https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/galaga-needs-a-new-monitor.516458/#post-4616654

 

https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/super-pac-man-looking-to-improve-and-semi-restore-back-to-original.516463/

 

 

Also, I'm hoping to eventually buy a rare sit-down Missile Command. It's something I've always wanted...

Edited by 82-T/A
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23 hours ago, 82-T/A said:

 

Thank you!!! I appreciate it. I don't view this as a replacement for AtariAge, of course... I'm here for the long haul... but definitely need / want some detailed help on a lot of longer term things I want to do with my arcade machines.

 

Thank you guys, I appreciate it. Just checked it out, I'll register and log in.

 

 

Side note, I found this... https://www.ebay.com/itm/115557333214 ... and just bought it. This solves one of my problems. I was going to rebuild it, but if I have an NOS that's identical, might as well go this route. A bit expensive... but I really beat on that controller.

 

 

Thanks again!!!

 

EDIT: Geeze... that is quite a process to create an account on there. I wonder how many people end up giving up at some point because of how complicated they make it?

I dont think thats the right joystick for your game. I dont think it will fit on your panel without an adapter plate. you did buy a rare valuable joystick, but I think its correct for early capcom or data east games.

 

you should have this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/285094001230?hash=item4260ed3a4e:g:jPcAAOSwxB5jsGzU&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoE6E6c%2FeeBL92ecPu%2BrTLoahblH6iH9qBZZ5PFBaa2u5%2FKOZCUtvnp1XdqJXwkq7s0dpMDEqu7QRwNw%2FEYgZuivrWkZAYNVD6aX6o5mWRdvRY9vRDMKg9nwU9uzgoSaNsXSEWIirT6uc5b6HAA4vUMy%2BsjQutwgzEk%2FgAEWlEFP8LwmIn%2BY2AK%2FWiLLrjMdqDzSL%2F3B%2B%2FskamDsU4jcRxL8%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_bMk_CyYQ

 

your going to need a plate like this to use that joystick on super pac.

https://www.arcadeshop.com/i/499/ms-pac-joystick-mounting-plate.htm

 

you probably should consider rebuilding what you have. here is the main part you need

https://www.arcadeshop.com/i/1207/midway-joystick-grommet.htm

 

 

I dont think this old game is quasi retired. I think he has way too much work!  I would assume there is a very small market for super pacman stencils. I would suggest patience.

 

 

for your galaga, I recommend repair what you got. If you can pull your chassis, you can send it off for repair. I probably has a g07 or a 4900 in there. Galaga will burn the tube, but its damage is mostly confined to top and bottom. with the screen tint in place, it hides it pretty good. There are no good replacement monitors.  Anything you can find will be expensive and the quality of those monitors is junk. you cant do better than g07 or 4900 (or k7000). send your chassis to someone like arcadecup.  On klov, contact someone like buffet

https://arcadecup.com/

 

what you really want to look into is a tube swap. Essentially, find an old compatible tv tube and change it if you have bad screen burn (missile command will burn the screen bad). so if you have old 80's era 19" tvs around, crack it open and see what tube it has in it.  Maybe keep and eye out for those at  thrift stores, flea markets, yard sales.

 

https://www.junknet.net/arcade/donor-tvs/

 

 

you should be able to easily find parts for coin door. should be compatible with ms pac and others.

 

yes, go to klov. you will find more help for arcades and parts you want.

 

I saw the thread on klov, k7000a if the flyback is dead, you need a new chassis.  the new chassis should be an easy swap.  Maybe you can find someone who can sell you one and confirm it will work with your tube. I doubt your galaga orignally had a k7000a in it, so it was probably swapped once already. so your tube probably has low burn. so save it at all cost. once you get a k7000 chassis for it, you will be able to have it easily fixed in the future.

 

As for stand in missile command, they made around 100 of them. maybe 20-40 are left in the world.  I would never say never, but if you do find one, I hope you have a good budget to get it.

Edited by mr.bill
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When a flyback goes out, it usually sounds like a firecracker and will stink the house up for a day.  The flyback has the high tension lead going to the picture tube and attached with what looks like a suction cup.  A bad flyback will usually have a noticeable crack in it.

Everyone acts like it's the kiss of death when one fails, but they're easy to replace provided you can find one.  There are companies that make replacements for everything imaginable, so it's hard to believe it would be unavailable.

Either way, I highly doubt your flyback is bad.

 

 

There should be a pigtail with a molex connector that you can unplug and check for power to the monitor.  The supply side should lead down to the big power supply at the bottom of the cabinet.  Down there is an isolation transformer...120 volt input and 120 volt output. This MUST be used!  If that's been bypassed and you run 120 volts from your wall outlet directly to the monitor, you'll have a hot chassis which can kill anyone that touches a metal part of the game.  You'll also ruin components in the monitor and possibly destroy all the game boards.

 

If the game worked the last time you used it, it's most likely something simple that came apart while moving it.   

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34 minutes ago, Turbo-Torch said:

When a flyback goes out, it usually sounds like a firecracker and will stink the house up for a day.  The flyback has the high tension lead going to the picture tube and attached with what looks like a suction cup.  A bad flyback will usually have a noticeable crack in it.

Everyone acts like it's the kiss of death when one fails, but they're easy to replace provided you can find one.  There are companies that make replacements for everything imaginable, so it's hard to believe it would be unavailable.

Either way, I highly doubt your flyback is bad.

 

 

There should be a pigtail with a molex connector that you can unplug and check for power to the monitor.  The supply side should lead down to the big power supply at the bottom of the cabinet.  Down there is an isolation transformer...120 volt input and 120 volt output. This MUST be used!  If that's been bypassed and you run 120 volts from your wall outlet directly to the monitor, you'll have a hot chassis which can kill anyone that touches a metal part of the game.  You'll also ruin components in the monitor and possibly destroy all the game boards.

 

If the game worked the last time you used it, it's most likely something simple that came apart while moving it.   

There is no replacement flyback for k7000a. It’s a weird one with an added bit to it(amplifier?). there is a chance, it could be something else, but i would not put a dollar into repairing a chassis that will eventually fail and not be fixable. Find a repaired k7000 or buy a doa one and have  it repaired. I have never swapped a k7000a with a k7000, but you might need to swap chassis neckboards. So contact an expert like arcade cup or buffet on klov.  But save that tube! K7000 is probably easiest chassis to repair. 
 

 

 

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9 hours ago, Turbo-Torch said:

When a flyback goes out, it usually sounds like a firecracker and will stink the house up for a day.  The flyback has the high tension lead going to the picture tube and attached with what looks like a suction cup.  A bad flyback will usually have a noticeable crack in it.

 

Either way, I highly doubt your flyback is bad.

 

Thanks Torch, I'll inspect and check that out.

 

 

 

9 hours ago, Turbo-Torch said:

There should be a pigtail with a molex connector that you can unplug and check for power to the monitor.  The supply side should lead down to the big power supply at the bottom of the cabinet.  Down there is an isolation transformer...120 volt input and 120 volt output. This MUST be used!  If that's been bypassed and you run 120 volts from your wall outlet directly to the monitor, you'll have a hot chassis which can kill anyone that touches a metal part of the game.  You'll also ruin components in the monitor and possibly destroy all the game boards.

 

100%, just like you said. I must have read something somewhere at some point because I ended up adding two PSUs to replace the large original transformer that's down there, but it appeared as though I was still using the original smaller transformer for the monitor. Once I find my multi-meter, I'll test the voltage coming out of it to see if that's the problem. It's the original transformer, so I'm wondering if it was damaged from movement while being shipped?

 

 

9 hours ago, Turbo-Torch said:

If the game worked the last time you used it, it's most likely something simple that came apart while moving it.   

I spent a good amount of time looking at it, and honestly, I think it might have actually failed in the move before last. I asked my wife about it, and it hasn't worked since we moved from Florida to Texas back in 2017. I just think I never got around to looking at it until now, and realized it's been out of commission for a while.

 

 

 

23 hours ago, mr.bill said:

I dont think thats the right joystick for your game. I dont think it will fit on your panel without an adapter plate. you did buy a rare valuable joystick, but I think its correct for early capcom or data east games.

 

you should have this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/285094001230?hash=item4260ed3a4e:g:jPcAAOSwxB5jsGzU&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoE6E6c%2FeeBL92ecPu%2BrTLoahblH6iH9qBZZ5PFBaa2u5%2FKOZCUtvnp1XdqJXwkq7s0dpMDEqu7QRwNw%2FEYgZuivrWkZAYNVD6aX6o5mWRdvRY9vRDMKg9nwU9uzgoSaNsXSEWIirT6uc5b6HAA4vUMy%2BsjQutwgzEk%2FgAEWlEFP8LwmIn%2BY2AK%2FWiLLrjMdqDzSL%2F3B%2B%2FskamDsU4jcRxL8%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_bMk_CyYQ

 

your going to need a plate like this to use that joystick on super pac.

https://www.arcadeshop.com/i/499/ms-pac-joystick-mounting-plate.htm

 

you probably should consider rebuilding what you have. here is the main part you need

https://www.arcadeshop.com/i/1207/midway-joystick-grommet.htm

 

Hah, ah man... I was almost certain that's what I had... damnit! Haha.

 

... aaaaand you're right. Just took a reach-around picture (best I could get), and it's exactly what you said I have.

 

IMG_4806.thumb.JPG.02710224ab2b3dd83444f5fc7aa36483.JPG

 

I'll get the things you recommended, and maybe just need to clean the contacts. Thank you!

 

 

23 hours ago, mr.bill said:

 

I dont think this old game is quasi retired. I think he has way too much work!  I would assume there is a very small market for super pacman stencils. I would suggest patience.

 

Yeah, I get it... I figured as much too, but I know he's built them in the past, so just not sure what all is involved. Seems to me stencils would basically be putting it on his CNC machine and letting it do the work. He's produced them in the past. But for lack of a better option, I guess I just have to wait.

 

 

23 hours ago, mr.bill said:

for your galaga, I recommend repair what you got. If you can pull your chassis, you can send it off for repair. I probably has a g07 or a 4900 in there. Galaga will burn the tube, but its damage is mostly confined to top and bottom. with the screen tint in place, it hides it pretty good. There are no good replacement monitors.  Anything you can find will be expensive and the quality of those monitors is junk. you cant do better than g07 or 4900 (or k7000). send your chassis to someone like arcadecup.  On klov, contact someone like buffet

https://arcadecup.com/

 

what you really want to look into is a tube swap. Essentially, find an old compatible tv tube and change it if you have bad screen burn (missile command will burn the screen bad). so if you have old 80's era 19" tvs around, crack it open and see what tube it has in it.  Maybe keep and eye out for those at  thrift stores, flea markets, yard sales.

 

https://www.junknet.net/arcade/donor-tvs/

 

I would ideally like to. I just moved about a year ago and for the life of me I cannot find a multimeter. I had like four of them, and no idea where they are right now, which is crazy. As a hobby, I have rebuilt car engines, and restored Swiss watches. The movers took stuff from my watch shop, and mixed it in the same box with the stuff I have all my automotive tools and garage tools in. So I'm at the point where I have to decide if I want to finish going through those boxes, or just buy another one... hahah. I would very much rather keep a monitor in there if I can, and don't mind the screen burn since it's apropos with the game.

 

 

23 hours ago, mr.bill said:

you should be able to easily find parts for coin door. should be compatible with ms pac and others.

 

Honestly, probably just best for me to try to find a "loaded door" that's already for sale on eBay and just swap over the parts, right?

 

 

23 hours ago, mr.bill said:

As for stand in missile command, they made around 100 of them. maybe 20-40 are left in the world.  I would never say never, but if you do find one, I hope you have a good budget to get it.

 

This is my "Battlesphere Gold," I must have it. I won't talk about budgets on here... my only problem is WHERE I would put it. Right now, I have three arcade machines in our downstairs guest bedroom, and the Galaga in the living room. I'm not sure where I'd even have the room for it... but I'll have to figure it out. I assume it'll fit through a standard 36"x80" doorway?

 

 

 

 

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If you want to check it with a meter, give it a shot to see if you got ac going in.  But beyond that, don’t mess with it unless you feel confident.  Look for cold solder joints. See if you see any neck glow.  See if you see screen collapse when you power Down the game. 
 

Like  I said, I would not put money into fixing the k7000a. If someone like buffet or chad said it was ok, then maybe.  I would say buy a donor k7000 and put the money into that. make sure you get the right k7000. It should have no extra parts connected to flyback, but the easiest way to tell is look for the tall heat sink.  If it’s tall, that’s the 25” monitor version.

 

my buddy is big time into watches.  But he quit after  the I watch came out. He only wears that now. I just bought a fossil centipede watch. Just waitin* on batteries to see if it works. 
 

someone else used to make stencils. I think escape pod, but that was a long time ago. I never stenciled a game. I think they were originally done with wood or metal.  I think new ones a cut stickers. 
 

I had a chance to get a missile command stand in, but a friend wanted it, so I did not bi$ against him.. 

Edited by mr.bill
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  • 2 weeks later...
On 1/10/2023 at 6:36 PM, mr.bill said:

If you want to check it with a meter, give it a shot to see if you got ac going in.  But beyond that, don’t mess with it unless you feel confident.  Look for cold solder joints. See if you see any neck glow.  See if you see screen collapse when you power Down the game. 
 

Like  I said, I would not put money into fixing the k7000a. If someone like buffet or chad said it was ok, then maybe.  I would say buy a donor k7000 and put the money into that. make sure you get the right k7000. It should have no extra parts connected to flyback, but the easiest way to tell is look for the tall heat sink.  If it’s tall, that’s the 25” monitor version.

 

my buddy is big time into watches.  But he quit after  the I watch came out. He only wears that now. I just bought a fossil centipede watch. Just waitin* on batteries to see if it works. 
 

someone else used to make stencils. I think escape pod, but that was a long time ago. I never stenciled a game. I think they were originally done with wood or metal.  I think new ones a cut stickers. 
 

I had a chance to get a missile command stand in, but a friend wanted it, so I did not bi$ against him.. 

 

 

Thanks! Long story short... I don't feel like spending another $10 bucks on a voltage tester, because I know I have three of them in boxes. So I just spent $530 bucks on garage cabinets (hahaha) so I can finally open up all those damned boxes and put all my tools away. So I'm waiting for that. In the mean time, I have several other things I can fix on the Super Pac Man and Missile Command. But as soon as I test it, I will post here and let you know if anyone cares.

 

So I found some graphics for Super Pac Man online, bought them, knowing they were too big. I e-mailed the person who I bought them from, and he told me he got them from another guy who made a whole set (perfect) for his Super Pac Man cabinet. I got that guy's information, texted him, only to discover that he had literally just sold all his printing equipment a week before. Unbelievable... haha. So I wait for This Old Game...

 

 

As for watches... it's another hobby of mine. I actually have a YouTube channel where I review watches that I buy, as well as watches that I fix up. Originally, I created the channel just to advertise the watches I was selling, but it grew into a hobby more than I realized and now I actually get money from YouTube every month: Wenger Todd's Watchshop - YouTube

 

I do some basic repairs for modern watches as well:

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Made some progress on the Super Pac-Man. I couldn't wait for This Old Arcade, so I went with a company that reproduces graphics for arcade machines in Italy. Total cost was about $230 bucks, but overall I'm really pleased with how it came out. The "problem" the graphics are a little bit too big. I'll tell the company later so they can adjust for future customers, but still... it looks good, I just was unable to properly place pac man's mouth over the opening the way it's supposed to. Still, again... it looks really good and I'm not disappointed.

 

IMG_4896.thumb.JPG.5459dd52365d83038f6ffceae2509a2b.JPGIMG_4899.thumb.JPG.0e66aae41099f9645eb37aa941a60ff3.JPG

IMG_4900.thumb.JPG.3750c0ef3f82db794d0e079684ec24eb.JPG

 

 

I also ordered a set of matching / locking Happ keys, a pair of Happ coin mechs, some new #161 arcade bulbs, a monitor surround (for under the glass) and a few other odds and ends.

 

And @mr.bill, I'm going to order the Happ joystick rebuild kit as well, along with that grommet. Thank you!

 

 

Haven't really touched the Galaga, I think I just wanted to have the Super Pac-Man completely finished first before I started tearing another arcade machine apart.

 

Overall, I'm pretty happy with how it's come out.

 

 

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13 hours ago, mr.bill said:

looks good.  It will play perfect with a rebuilt original!

 

I swapped the batteries and the centipede watch is fully working. I need to take a working pic.

 

1972568208_centipedewatch.thumb.jpg.464553cdcddd840240cc5dcf40b4ddd1.jpg

 

OMG, this is amazing... how have I never heard of this???

 

fossil-atari-centipede.jpg

Edited by 82-T/A
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Not much of an update... but I finally got some light bulbs (lol) for the coin displays. I also ordered some 1.5mm felt strips and put them along the inside of the coin door. This prevents the doors from slamming metal on metal (I know...) and keeps the light from shining through the cracks... (I know... don't harass me, I'm waiting for my monitor surround, coin mechanics, and joystick rebuild kit).

 

IMG_4903.thumb.JPG.9269fe5d6e9dc15176ee4227bae7be61.JPG

 

IMG_4904.thumb.JPG.cd5db2c2fb330d1f5ccbee7a380cc014.JPG

 

 

Lights off... no shine through.

IMG_4906.thumb.JPG.1ee662da3869278e22ecabd5fc14fc07.JPG

 

 

 

I don't want to over-restore the machine to make it look like it's brand new. I mean, most people wouldn't even recognize that it has a sticker on it versus having been painted with stencils... but I still want it to look NICE, but look like it's actually been used. So I'll probably touch up the paint around the right 25-cent slot where it's rusty... I guess a lot of people putting quarters in on the right side back in the day!

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fossil also made a breakout and asteroids. the problem with them is they are not playable.  You need to track down the nesltronic ones if you want to play. I have qbert and frogger.

 

the original ones came in a tin. I have the centipede tin. the reproduction asteroids has a different face, but was repackaged into an asteroids box.

 

159779041_centipedetin.thumb.jpg.0afad0d4f10d2d7e0c7be28adbf018ce.jpg

 

asteroids.jpg.913402605494f53f35b8f9ed92544551.jpg

Edited by mr.bill
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7 minutes ago, mr.bill said:

fossil also made a breakout and asteroids. the problem with them is they are not playable.  You need to track down the nesltronic ones if you want to play. I have qbert and frogger.

 

the original ones came in a tin. I have the centipede tin. the reproduction asteroids has a different face, but was repackaged into an asteroids box.

 

asteroids.jpg.913402605494f53f35b8f9ed92544551.jpg

 

That is pretty sweet, honestly. Does it sort of play on it's own?

 

Asteroids, really, is my favorite game. I mean, I say that, but it's a toss-up between Missile Command and Asteroids. I just have a hard time deciding.

 

When I was like... I dunno, 7 or 8? My family was doing a road trip through New England, and we were in some small town near Worchester (pronounced Woosta') Massachusetts. We were staying in a Howard Johnson, and there was this breezeway between the hotel "building" and the restaurant / hotel lobby. It had two arcade games sitting in there, an Asteroids, and a Galaga. Honestly... I probably pumped 10 bucks worth of quarters into that Asteroids during the two days I stayed there... I played it non-stop. I would wake up in the morning, get dressed as fast as I could so I could go out there and play. It was way better in my opinion than the one I had on my Atari 2600 at home. The rastor or vector graphics (don't know what it's called)... just blew me away... haha...

 

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Ok, installed a new 19" black plastic monitor surround to go under the glass bezel. Worked really well. I had to trim a half-inch off the bottom portion, but it sits perfectly flush, and looks really nice on top of the DELL monitor that had been installed in there. So I'm happy. Everything lines up... I even put some felt strips between the glass and the wood rails, as well as between the metal plates and the control panel, and the wood where the control panel sits. There are absolutely no rattles, on anything!

 

I also rebuilt the controller with the new grommet, and the new knob / shaft and shaft bushing. It's a little harder to play, but I assume the grommet just needs to be broken in a little bit. Otherwise, it's absolutely fantastic now.

 

IMG_4920.thumb.JPG.ec8bacd21a7c66585c91a0c52fbb71df.JPG

 

 

Just waiting for my coin mechanics now, and then I'll finish up the wiring so all of that actually works.

 

 

IMG_4921.thumb.JPG.ff7f40062910998e2a6a2e835c7c98c2.JPG

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