Cartermw Posted March 28 Author Share Posted March 28 Although I am still not 100% happy with the case, I decided it was time to stop tinkering and start building. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cartermw Posted March 30 Author Share Posted March 30 Well lessons learned. 😔 while laying out the case, I thought, cosmetically speaking it would be nice to have the USB and DB9 cables coming in one side with the controller on the other. The only issue this caused was the strain relief that was on the DB9 was too fat for the case and would have to be cut off, no problem. Well yes problem, it turns out the wires in this cable are extremely fine, and do not want to cooperate. In hindsight I knew this from the prototype, but told myself after a few it would get easier... It didn't. The first 12 will be the way I designed them since the cases are nearly done, but after that I am going to move the cable entrance to the other side where the strain relief and pre-tinned wires will fit. Just when I thought I was done tinkering with this box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+evg2000 Posted March 30 Share Posted March 30 1 minute ago, Cartermw said: Well lessons learned. 😔 while laying out the case, I thought, cosmetically speaking it would be nice to have the USB and DB9 cables coming in one side with the controller on the other. The only issue this caused was the strain relief that was on the DB9 was too fat for the case and would have to be cut off, no problem. Well yes problem, it turns out the wires in this cable are extremely fine, and do not want to cooperate. In hindsight I knew this from the prototype, but told myself after a few it would get easier... It didn't. The first 12 will be the way I designed them since the cases are nearly done, but after that I am going to move the cable entrance to the other side where the strain relief and pre-tinned wires will fit. Just when I thought I was done tinkering with this box. yes, I have dealt with those thin wire also. PITA! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doubledown Posted March 31 Share Posted March 31 15 hours ago, Cartermw said: Well yes problem, it turns out the wires in this cable are extremely fine, and do not want to cooperate. In hindsight I knew this from the prototype, but told myself after a few it would get easier... It didn't. Yes, those type of "fiber-filled" conductors are a royal PITA, as @evg2000 mentions, and as you have discovered. Keep fighting the good fight. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cartermw Posted April 2 Author Share Posted April 2 After some testing and experimentation yesterday, I have a few suggestions on using the Neocoleco Adapter. When completed, the units will have their default configuration, which to me is not very useful. The joystick doesn't work, you have to use the directional pad, the right trigger isn't configured, essentially what I am saying, figure on configuring your unit shortly after you get it. If you are using an Xbox One controller make sure it is updated. Otherwise it will only partially work, which is very frustrating, just trust me. No matter the controller be patient while syncing to the NeoColeco. Remember the unit needs to boot which takes about a minute, if you try to sync before it is ready you will end up fighting it for about 5 minutes trying to get the two talking. Once again very frustrating. I found the easiest way to get a new controller connected is to first reset it. On the Xbox and Playstation controllers hold the sysc buttons until the unit shuts down. The Xbox controller will vibrate twice, the Playstation controller will just shut off. Of course if you have any questions, let me know. There is also a great BlueRetro discussion group, https://github.com/darthcloud/BlueRetro/discussions, with amazing enthusiast willing to help. Thank you, That Old Nerd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petejk Posted April 3 Share Posted April 3 On 4/2/2023 at 6:40 AM, Cartermw said: After some testing and experimentation yesterday, I have a few suggestions on using the Neocoleco Adapter. When completed, the units will have their default configuration, which to me is not very useful. The joystick doesn't work, you have to use the directional pad, the right trigger isn't configured, essentially what I am saying, figure on configuring your unit shortly after you get it. If you are using an Xbox One controller make sure it is updated. Otherwise it will only partially work, which is very frustrating, just trust me. No matter the controller be patient while syncing to the NeoColeco. Remember the unit needs to boot which takes about a minute, if you try to sync before it is ready you will end up fighting it for about 5 minutes trying to get the two talking. Once again very frustrating. I found the easiest way to get a new controller connected is to first reset it. On the Xbox and Playstation controllers hold the sysc buttons until the unit shuts down. The Xbox controller will vibrate twice, the Playstation controller will just shut off. Of course if you have any questions, let me know. There is also a great BlueRetro discussion group, https://github.com/darthcloud/BlueRetro/discussions, with amazing enthusiast willing to help. Thank you, That Old Nerd I can't wait until you have a batch complete, and a unit available for purchase! There are a handful of different BT controllers I would be keen to try out 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cartermw Posted April 5 Author Share Posted April 5 I thought I would take a moment to update this project. I unfortunately ran out of filament for my printer, so I had to pause building, a new roll is expected on Thursday or Friday. Once the cases are printed I am going to open the soft launch to this site. I have 20 boards ready that will be sold, once the cases are ready, for $60.00 plus shipping. Once those 20 are sold I will be moving to an e-commerce solution at a price of $70.00 plus shipping. I was originally going to use Etsy, but I believe I can save myself and the buyer a little money by building a personal site, I am currently looking into Shopify, but if anyone has any suggestions let me know. With this project done, except for tinkering with the case, I think I will forever be tinkering with this case, I am looking to move on to the next design. My current plans are to move on to designing a multi machine adapter that will accommodate the kempston/Atari, Atari 7800, and MSX compatible machines. For full disclosure and the love of the game, you can find designs for the Atari 2600 & 7800 joysticks on the BlueRetro site right now, I am just adding my own flair onto the build. The next adapter I am looking at is for the Sinclair systems, and finally if I can nail down the analog stick I am looking to design something for the Atari 5200. I want to thank everyone again for your support and assistance and hope to work with all of you in the future. Michael Carter, AKA That Old Nerd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cartermw Posted April 5 Author Share Posted April 5 BTW for my Adam loving friends, an Adam variant is coming in the future as soon as I can find ABS in a color I like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cartermw Posted April 9 Author Share Posted April 9 I am sorry to say, but I am going to put off selling any more units for the time being. In my first batch of 12, I had two that didn't function. I figured I had screwed something up and moved on. I just finished testing my second batch of 12 with over half bad. I decided to dig in and figure out why, and to this point I cannot. Each board has the same fault, the cd4066 that controls fire and arm doesn't work. I am getting a good signal to the chip and can manually trigger the output, but nothing when I push the button. I tried swapping chips, and even took the other two cd4066 chips out of the circuit, with no change. My current verdict is I either got a bad bach of boards or my routing is somehow faulty. I have a new batch of boards that have updated routing, I am going to build a few of them and see if they perform better🤞. To the three individuals that already bought a unit, for all I know your current unit will work fine for years to come, but I will not bet my reputation on it. I will be sending you out a new unit when I have one I feel comfortable with. Keep the old unit as a spare. Thank you for your patience, That Old Nerd 🤓 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cartermw Posted April 22 Author Share Posted April 22 Good news and frustration. After building my first dozen boards from the second batch of boards, first two test perfect, and then my gremlin popped up again. I was ready to cry, and decided to shut it down and sleep on it. This morning I had a thought, I had initially ran pull down resistors on the CD4066 triggers as a ' better safe than sorry ' addition to avoid noise. My current theory is these resistors are adding enough of a drag on the line some of the triggers were too weak to engage the chip. This morning I removed the array, and sure enough this gremlin was gone, but his cousin decided to join the game. Now all of the inputs work, but occasionally I need to unplug and reset the DB9 in my Phoenix before the unit starts working. Very frustrating, but I am getting closer. Michael Carter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+evg2000 Posted April 22 Share Posted April 22 If the 4066 continues to be an issues, and you can't come to a solution you might want to consider optocouplers. I used PC847 4x OptoCouplers in my project 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cartermw Posted April 22 Author Share Posted April 22 Gremlin #2 was easier to slay. I threw a couple 100k drains on the coleco's common pins and now it is connecting without issue. I am going to start fixing all of the units tomorrow and will hopefully be ready to start selling again on Monday. I am also going to try a YouTube demonstration. It is a bit out of my comfort zone, but that's half of the fun. BTW of the users who already purchased a unit, if you start to have issues, let me know, I will either work with you to repair it, the fix is easy, or send it back and I will take care of it. Thanx Michael Carter AKA That Old Nerd 🤓 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cartermw Posted May 2 Author Share Posted May 2 If anyone is interested, I created a short video introducing the unit. I am working on a second video I hope to have up soon. The first video is https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8EQlP8BtEJE. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cartermw Posted May 13 Author Share Posted May 13 Well the NeoColeco saga just won't end. I have been using a unit for the last couple of weeks on my Adam without issue. I decided it was time to make the software video and since my Adam has some video glitches, I decided to make the video on my Phoenix. I used my Phoenix to test the first batch of boards and it performed just like the Adam, but now that I made the changes to the board to fix the gremlins, it will no-longer work on the Phoenix. To be more specific, it is acting just like the Adam was before I added the output resistors in that it initially works, stops working after a couple of minutes. You can get it to work again if you unplug and replug the DB9 but will fail again after a few minutes. I tried driving the board off of the PS2 port hoping is was a ground potential issue, but the Phoenix will only push 10ma when the board needs 19ma to run. For now I have pulled the unit for now and am deciding how I want to proceed. Thank you for your interest and patience. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted May 13 Share Posted May 13 41 minutes ago, Cartermw said: For now I have pulled the unit for now and am deciding how I want to proceed. Sorry to hear this project has run into problems. Wow only 10ma of power supplied by the Phoenix's PS2 port? That really seems very weak. What kind of PS2 devices does the Phoenix expect to see plugged in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cartermw Posted May 13 Author Share Posted May 13 19 minutes ago, mytek said: Sorry to hear this project has run into problems. Wow only 10ma of power supplied by the Phoenix's PS2 port? That really seems very weak. What kind of PS2 devices does the Phoenix expect to see plugged in? I know, I even bumped the PS to 2amp hoping it would help, but it didn't make a difference. I was tempted to upen up the unit and see how they were handling the Voltage, but knowing that they are no longer available I am hesitant to push my luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cartermw Posted May 13 Author Share Posted May 13 I had to correct my math 🫣. The Phoenix is pushing 100ma not 10. I need 180-190ma for the board. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cartermw Posted June 5 Author Share Posted June 5 🤞 I think I figured it out 🤞. After designing a board for the Atari, and wondering why it would work on the 2600, but not the 7800, I noticed something interesting. The contact points on the CD4066 were pushing upwards of 400 ohm resistance. I took a closer look at the cutsheet and it makes sense. The lower the operating voltage the higher the resistance on the contacts. I tested the theory with an out of circuit IC and when I dropped the operating voltage from 5v to 3.3v the resistance went from around 10ohms to around 400 ohms. I swapped the CD4066s to 74HC4066s on the first unit yesterday and it works on the Colecovision, the Adam, and the Phoenix. I need to wire up a few more before I am confident enough to re-open sales, but it is a good sign. 🤓 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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