Jump to content
IGNORED

2600 RGB mod + UnoCart help needed


a7mag3ddon

Recommended Posts

 

I recently bought a PAL 2600 and did deluxe composite mod then purchased an Unocart to go with it, for a few weeks this has been working perfectly along with my original games, but i wasnt happy with the picture.

 

Ive just installed the Full Tim Worthington RGB Mod and all seemed well with my original games (about 10 of them)

 

Only thing is now the unocart will not work at all and i dont know why.

 

Is it not compatible with RGB or something? I have tried going via my OSSC and directly into my TV but it just doesnt want to work.

 

I have also tried running it without an SD in case its a setting stored on the card or something.

 

Just in case it matters i flashed the Cart with the PlusCart firmware ( which is what ive been using for a few weeks without problem via composite )

 

Please can anyone help?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Maybe the RGB mod is drawing more current from the regulator? So there might not be enough to "boot" the PlusCart. Multicarts typically need a bit more current than a normal standard ROM cartridge.

 

You can check the 5V rail without a cartridge, with a normal cartridge and with the PlusCart. Maybe you have to replace the regulator or use a more powerful wall plug.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I do have both latest unified and legacy already on the cart as I was testing the two.

 

I don't have a working atari now to reflash the cart.

 

Unless there's a way to do it directly.

 

I was thinking about what you said about the power and was thinking of using my bench power supply to give 5v volts at s higher current to see if that works.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are you not using the DC-DC switching regulator that came with the RGB kit? The reason that is included is to reduce the overall current draw in the system so you can power up the RGB and the 2600 using an original PSU. The original PSUs only put about .5mA or 1/2 Amp of current, and with the RGB in place I think it was too much. So the DC-DC switchers were included to be installed as that drops the current draw from the console with the RGB in place to about 320mA average current draw.

 

So you have to use a DC-DC switcher to prevent current issues related to power in the RGB upgraded consoles.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

Are you not using the DC-DC switching regulator that came with the RGB kit? The reason that is included is to reduce the overall current draw in the system so you can power up the RGB and the 2600 using an original PSU. The original PSUs only put about .5mA or 1/2 Amp of current, and with the RGB in place I think it was too much. So the DC-DC switchers were included to be installed as that drops the current draw from the console with the RGB in place to about 320mA average current draw.

 

So you have to use a DC-DC switcher to prevent current issues related to power in the RGB upgraded consoles.

 

 

I was using it, unicart didn't work, I switched back to a new 7805 Still didn't work so put the dc to dc back in

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I know that both an UNOcart and Plus carts will work in RGB upgraded consoles. I use both in testing on my work bench and I know I've used them on RGB upgrades I done. So it should work. Just wanted to make sure you were still using the DC-DC switching regulator as it is required. You can install a 1A or 2A 7805 but the regulator can only draw as much as the PSU can provide so even with a higher output regulator installed, you aren't going to get that much if the PSU can't supply that much to begin with.

 

Again, it was a simpler solution to require replacing out the regulator to a switcher to drop the current draw requirement vs making everyone upgrade both the regulator and PSUs to higher amperage output variants.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

Well I know that both an UNOcart and Plus carts will work in RGB upgraded consoles. I use both in testing on my work bench and I know I've used them on RGB upgrades I done. So it should work. Just wanted to make sure you were still using the DC-DC switching regulator as it is required. You can install a 1A or 2A 7805 but the regulator can only draw as much as the PSU can provide so even with a higher output regulator installed, you aren't going to get that much if the PSU can't supply that much to begin with.

 

Again, it was a simpler solution to require replacing out the regulator to a switcher to drop the current draw requirement vs making everyone upgrade both the regulator and PSUs to higher amperage output variants.

 

 

I got it working by reflashing the legacy V17 firmware to the cart. Which means on my machine the PlusCart firmware i was using does not seem to be compatible.

 

I also used my bench psu to test as well with an original cart the console draws 280ma @9v and the Unocart 270mah on the menu.

 

Who would i report a bug in the FW to for the plus cart firmware?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also, what does this mean on the RGB mod install (I closed it)

 

JP1 open for TTL sync / closed for 75 ohm sync (recommended).

 

Whenever I play an NTSC game now I get no video, only audio. Its a pal console but it played both types on composite.

 

Edited by a7mag3ddon
spellcheck
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So after speaking to Tim Worthington directly about this, he thinks my Ataris video timing is slightly off and that my TV doesn't like it.

 

This is why the PlusCart dual firmware doesn't work for me as its default is NTSC (Since got it working by using composite and changing menu to PAL)

 

I'm going to swap out the PAL crystal with an NTSC one to see if I can get it to work that way as a last resort and will update this post once I've tested just in case anyone in future has this issue.

 

Sadly as I have only the 1 TV I'm unable to check on another.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/14/2023 at 11:05 AM, a7mag3ddon said:

So after speaking to Tim Worthington directly about this, he thinks my Ataris video timing is slightly off and that my TV doesn't like it.

 

This is why the PlusCart dual firmware doesn't work for me as its default is NTSC (Since got it working by using composite and changing menu to PAL)

 

I'm going to swap out the PAL crystal with an NTSC one to see if I can get it to work that way as a last resort and will update this post once I've tested just in case anyone in future has this issue.

 

Sadly as I have only the 1 TV I'm unable to check on another.

Did you solved the issue? If not you might change the TV setting by flashing a config to the second flash sector (sector 1) with the STM32CubrProgrammer. I can provide you the necessary bin file for TV mode PAL or PAL60.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 minutes ago, a7mag3ddon said:

No i was unable to fix it.

 

If i select NTSC or PAL60 on UnoCart with jumper i loose picture, If I play any ntsc game I also loose picture and just get sound.

 

As I have a programmer I am happy to try anything at the moment.

 

Thank you

 

After flashing the firmware you can upload this bin file to the second sector (0x08004000):

PAL-config.bin

 

  • select the bin file in the "Erasing & Programming" tab of the STM32CubeProgrammer
  • set the start address to 0x08004000
  • if you newly flashed the firmware you might select "Skip flash erase before programming"
  • press the "Start Programming" button

 

Flash-Config.thumb.png.f630d6b4c5bef2ee11bcc1d911a073a0.png

 

Your UnoCart should now boot in PAL mode, but this is only for the menu. If you select a NTSC or PAL60 ROM it will not work with your PAL only TV.

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh sorry, I managed to fix the cart side by using composite video to change the menu tv mode to pal.

 

What I can't get running is ntsc games via RGB using the TW Rgb mod.

 

I'm trying to source a console that was made in UK or California to try, although Tim said I'd probably have same issue.

 

I'm also trying to find another TV to test on too as I only have the 1 at home, oh I could try a projector that I have with HDMI input..  didn't think of that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...