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doubledown's latest controller build...the Atari Micro Joystick Controller


doubledown

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Ok, so I've finished up the engineering and assembly, for the "Stealth" variant of this micro joystick controller.  

 

yGuPNT.jpg

 

On the left, for the clicky version, a Seimitsu LS-32 microswitch joystick, and (2) iL PSL-C microswitch pushbuttons.  On the right, for the silent version, a QANBA Gravity Silent keyswitch joystick, and (2) Ultimarc GoldLeaf keyswitch pushbuttons.  

 

The LS-32 joystick comes with a square main gate, and a 3-position sub-gate, which allows for 8-way (square), 4-way (clover), or 2-way (slot, horizontal or vertical) restriction.  Available separately, Seimitsu also sells a circular main gate and a 3-position sub-gate which allows for 8-way (circle), 4-way (clover), or 2-way (slot, horizontal or vertical) restriction.  Additionally, KOWAL, also makes an octagonal gate, which offers an 8-way (octagon) restriction.  The factory centering spring on these joysticks has a force rating of approximately 1-1.25 lbs.  Arcade Shock offers 1.5 lb., 2 lb., 3 lb., and 4 lb. springs, to firm up the feel of the stick if one prefers...I like the 2 lb. variant myself.  Alternatively, these sticks can also be "tuned" easily by replacing the Omron microswitches, with something different as they're not PCB mounted, I like the ZF/Cherry D43Y (86g) microswitches myself, but replacing the 4 switches costs about $20, versus $1.60 to change out the spring (external retaining ring pliers are required to change the spring).  

 

The QANBA Gravity Silent Joystick as purchased, includes both square, and circular, 8-way gates...but as its very new, nobody is yet making an octagonal gate for it.  This joystick also comes packaged with 3 centering springs, the factory installed version, then 1 labeled as "0.5 times elasticity" (weaker), and the other one labeled as "2 times elasticity" (stiffer).  I have the "2 times elasticity" spring installed in mine, as I like the firmer feel.  Then, speaking of mine, as I needed to assemble a "Stealth" version to make sure there were no assembly/interference issues, here is the one I built for myself:

 

7EpAih.jpg

 

Mine as mentioned is the "Stealth" variant of course, which can be seen denoted in the new/additional text below the joystick.  And I changed up the coloring on mine from the standard red/black color scheme, to all black controls (like the Gauntlet arcade cabinets), and a yellow (top)-to-lime green (bottom) faded CPO with a light blue left/bottom shadow, surrounded by a dark blue border...which is all pulled from the Gauntlet arcade cabinet's marquee.  

 

So clicky and loud, or silent and smooth...the choice is yours!

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2 hours ago, doubledown said:

Ok, so I've finished up the engineering and assembly, for the "Stealth" variant of this micro joystick controller.  

 

yGuPNT.jpg

 

On the left, for the clicky version, a Seimitsu LS-32 microswitch joystick, and (2) iL PSL-C microswitch pushbuttons.  On the right, for the silent version, a QANBA Gravity Silent keyswitch joystick, and (2) Ultimarc GoldLeaf keyswitch pushbuttons.  

 

The LS-32 joystick comes with a square main gate, and a 3-position sub-gate, which allows for 8-way (square), 4-way (clover), or 2-way (slot, horizontal or vertical) restriction.  Available separately, Seimitsu also sells a circular main gate and a 3-position sub-gate which allows for 8-way (circle), 4-way (clover), or 2-way (slot, horizontal or vertical) restriction.  Additionally, KOWAL, also makes an octagonal gate, which offers an 8-way (octagon) restriction.  The factory centering spring on these joysticks has a force rating of approximately 1-1.25 lbs.  Arcade Shock offers 1.5 lb., 2 lb., 3 lb., and 4 lb. springs, to firm up the feel of the stick if one prefers...I like the 2 lb. variant myself.  Alternatively, these sticks can also be "tuned" easily by replacing the Omron microswitches, with something different as they're not PCB mounted, I like the ZF/Cherry D43Y (86g) microswitches myself, but replacing the 4 switches costs about $20, versus $1.60 to change out the spring (external retaining ring pliers are required to change the spring).  

 

The QANBA Gravity Silent Joystick as purchased, includes both square, and circular, 8-way gates...but as its very new, nobody is yet making an octagonal gate for it.  This joystick also comes packaged with 3 centering springs, the factory installed version, then 1 labeled as "0.5 times elasticity" (weaker), and the other one labeled as "2 times elasticity" (stiffer).  I have the "2 times elasticity" spring installed in mine, as I like the firmer feel.  Then, speaking of mine, as I needed to assemble a "Stealth" version to make sure there were no assembly/interference issues, here is the one I built for myself:

 

7EpAih.jpg

 

Mine as mentioned is the "Stealth" variant of course, which can be seen denoted in the new/additional text below the joystick.  And I changed up the coloring on mine from the standard red/black color scheme, to all black controls (like the Gauntlet arcade cabinets), and a yellow (top)-to-lime green (bottom) faded CPO with a light blue left/bottom shadow, surrounded by a dark blue border...which is all pulled from the Gauntlet arcade cabinet's marquee.  

 

So clicky and loud, or silent and smooth...the choice is yours!

Awesome! You already know my answer on this in PMs.

 

Might have to talk about options for the coloring though...hmmm.

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  • 2 months later...

An update on this controller....specifically with regards to the 2600/7800 2-button mode switch:

 

When I originally designed the circuitry for this pushbutton switch, that allows the controller to offer both 2600 2-button (Joy2B+ / Genesis controller) compatibility and 7800 2-button compatibility, I tested it with 2600 and 7800 games on (2) Atari 7800 consoles, (1) Atari 2600 console, and (1) Coleco Expansion Module #1...and everything worked as it should.  I have this feature in 3 or 4 of my own personal controllers.  But when I sent a controller to @ZeroPage Homebrew, James found that the 2nd button, in 2600 mode, wasn't working on his 2600 or his 7800 (with a 2600 game).  Of course I initially thought some damage may have occurred in shipping...maybe some throwing impact during shipping broke a solder connection, or perhaps a crimped socket in the cable plug failed...or similar.  So I had him send it back to me for evaluation, and while I was waiting for it, I had friends bring over all of their 2600 and 7800 consoles so that I could do a large battery of testing.  

 

What I found was that the circuitry fully passed on 3 Sears Light sixers, 1 Atari Heavy sixer, 1 Coleco EM1, and 4 7800s.  But there were failures on 1 Sears Heavy sixer, 1 Atari Light sixer, 1 Atari 4 switcher, and 4 7800s, wherein the 2nd 2600 button wouldn't work.  What or why...I have no idea.  Board revision differences...breakdown of PCB components (resistors, capacitors, or the likes)...something else unknown...again, no idea.  So at this point...this circuit can work...depending on the console...and it works on all of mine.  Unfortunately, the only way to determine if it works on a specific console(s)...is to try it on said console(s).  It looks like the only way to truly guarantee that it will work for any console, is to completely divorce the 2600 / 7800 button wiring & resistors, by having 2 of something...either 2 controller cables (1 for 2600, 1 for 7800), or 2 pushbutton switches, that both get cycled to change modes.  For this 2nd option, I'll need to design a new PCB, and then determine if it can fit into this very small Serpac enclosure, or maybe something slightly larger.  So in the near future here, I'll be working on this.  

 

For James at @ZeroPage Homebrew however, as he already has a few 7800 controllers, the 7800 2-button mode wasn't as important to him, and he wanted something a bit different, with a different feature, so presenting the:

 

ZPH Edition - VVG Micro Controller

 

nO2BlW.png

 

I removed the 7800 2-button compatibility, and wired it directly for Joy2B+ (Genesis compatible) 2600/8-bit 2-button compatibility only, and added/installed a 6-position rotary switch that allows him to assign the 2nd button to act as Button 2, or, any of the joystick directions Up/Down/Left/Right, or it can be turned to Off and inactive.  This allows the 2nd button to be able to be "assigned," to any of these 5 inputs...depending on the game.  It can be set to Joystick Left...for quick braking in Grand Prix, Joystick Down...for quick ducking in Keystone Kapers...and for many many other games.  Additionally James wanted a joystick controller for his consolized Lynx...which can use SMS controllers.  For this to work however, the controller (SMS pad or alternative), needs to be "dumb", and it wouldn't work with my 2600/7800 circuitry, due to the diodes that were installed.  So by removing the 7800 compatibility, and thus the diodes, it now also works on his Lynx as well.  And as James seems to like "clicky" controls, his is built with a Seimitsu LS-32 microswitch joystick, and iL PSL-C microswitch pushbuttons.  

 

So for now I'll be designing a new 2 pushbutton switch PCB for the 2600/7800 mode switching feature, just one more project added to the queue.  

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I'm definitely going to have to get one of these in the stealth flavor. The switch to change what the second button does for 2600 games is probably something I'd be looking for (pressing up on the joystick to jump in some games is pretty annoying).

 

I already have a CX-10, a modern Chinese clone of the CX-40, and a CX-78. This seems like the one to replace them all for my 7800 (that I use for my 2600 as well).

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You do amazing work doubledown! (And so do you Crossbow)

 

Currently I'm refurbing and restoring 8 of these original Nintendo arcade joysticks with my 8yrold son. Since they are similar style, I thought I'd post the video here that I used for reference. Learned a lot from it with history and design, maybe this is useful.

 

Spoiler

 

 

Today I obtained the lubricant this guy referenced in the video from an Air Soft store in my town. Much better then lithium greese, I think.

 

I thought I should mention, 4 of my Nintendo arcade joysticks I modified to have a "pull" feature, with an extra microswitch on the bottom. I think the Punch-Out arcade game had this feature. Works well. I can send pics on request of this would be useful somehow.

Edited by CaptainBreakout
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8 hours ago, madmax_2069 said:

I'm definitely going to have to get one of these in the stealth flavor. The switch to change what the second button does for 2600 games is probably something I'd be looking for (pressing up on the joystick to jump in some games is pretty annoying).

 

I already have a CX-10, a modern Chinese clone of the CX-40, and a CX-78. This seems like the one to replace them all for my 7800 (that I use for my 2600 as well).

 

To add a "button assignment" rotary switch, to a controller which also features the 2600/7800 selector switch, is a bit tougher then with a controller with only 2600 compatibility, due to the wiring...but it is possible, if a 2 pole rotary switch is used.  I know I've used them before on CV controllers, but I think those are only available in a 5 position switch...so the "Off" position wouldn't be available...which really isn't that big of a deal.  So where the switch on the ZPH controller can be set to Off/Up/Dn/Le/Ri/B2 (w/ 6 position), I would probably wire it as B2/Up/Dn/Le/Ri (w/ only 5 positions). 

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On 5/24/2023 at 7:14 AM, doubledown said:

For James at @ZeroPage Homebrew however, as he already has a few 7800 controllers, the 7800 2-button mode wasn't as important to him, and he wanted something a bit different, with a different feature, so presenting the:

 

ZPH Edition - VVG Micro Controller

 

nO2BlW.png

 

Massive thank you to @doubledown for this incredible versatile controller and it looks awesome with the ZPH logo! It was a huge surprise for ZPH's 5th Anniversary. We put it through its paces last show with my consolized Lynx and we'll be using it again tomorrow on the Atari 800XL!

 

- James

 

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12 hours ago, doubledown said:

 

To add a "button assignment" rotary switch, to a controller which also features the 2600/7800 selector switch, is a bit tougher then with a controller with only 2600 compatibility, due to the wiring...but it is possible, if a 2 pole rotary switch is used.  I know I've used them before on CV controllers, but I think those are only available in a 5 position switch...so the "Off" position wouldn't be available...which really isn't that big of a deal.  So where the switch on the ZPH controller can be set to Off/Up/Dn/Le/Ri/B2 (w/ 6 position), I would probably wire it as B2/Up/Dn/Le/Ri (w/ only 5 positions). 

That would be totally fine with me just as long as I can assign the second button for 2600 games and wouldn't interfere with 7800 games. 

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14 hours ago, madmax_2069 said:

That would be totally fine with me just as long as I can assign the second button for 2600 games and wouldn't interfere with 7800 games. 

 

The 2nd button would be assignable as B2 (2600/8-bit/SMS or 7800 button 2, depending on the mode), or Joystick Up/Down/Left/Right, for any console/computer that its used on.  Whether that's a 2600, Atari 8-bit, 7800, SMS, C-64...or what-have-you.  If B2 is assigned to a joystick function...like say Up, for jumping in a particular game...it does not however disable joystick's ability to still provide this same function.  So depending on how feverishly you are playing...you could accidentally still trigger this action un-wantingly with the joystick, as it is still enabled, even if assigned to B2.  To de-activate the joystick's mating input, it would require a bit more wiring/switches.  On my Switch-O-Matic controller:

 

vwc6y5.png

 

The 4 latching pushbuttons, in a diamond shape, to the right of the joystick (left of the orange pushbutton), are used on this controller for this exact feature.  In the image above, the Left / Right joystick enabling switches are active (orange), but the Up / Down joystick enabling switches are disabled (black), joystick Up is assigned to active button 2, and joystick Down is assigned to active button 3.  I like to play H.E.R.O. like this.  Using the 2nd and 3rd buttons for flight and dynamite.  Of course you starting getting this fancy...and the controller needs to be larger...and it gets costlier.  

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