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Proline joystick fire button PCBs make great 2600 Jr. Select and Reset switches


x=usr(1536)

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Nothing really earth-shattering, but I found a pair of working Proline fire button PCBs earlier that had slipped my mind.  Given that the daily-driver 2600 Jr. had the usual work-when-they-feel-like-it Select and Reset switches due to an expired mylar, I decided to see if I could make the PCBs work as replacements for the mylar.

 

The switch PCBs from the Proline(s):

 

IMG_0974.thumb.jpg.1450fafa51f7e4f5afa85b154e0f8389.jpg

 

Fitment test:

 

IMG_0975.thumb.jpg.26bdb54a1ded8c0c3deb7175e4375934.jpg

 

Superglued in place with wiring attached (yes, I glued them down before soldering on the wires - ooops):

 

IMG_0976.thumb.jpg.edf5a65a8f9580a04770e0eb86f5dcff.jpg

 

And what it looks like from the underside:

 

IMG_0978.thumb.jpg.8f94d616d1b9122672fc0fc18b79ae69.jpg

 

There's not a lot more to show - the ground wires were spliced together to provide a single ground for both switches, which is essentially how the mylar took care of that.  All three wires were then run to their respective pins on the connector at the mainboard.  Colours are off-white for ground, orange for Select, and violet for Reset.

 

The foam squares on the back of the Junior's switch facings had to be removed for clearance, but that was no great loss.  They activate the dome switches on the PCBs really nicely, and the domes have enough springiness in them to make up for the foam being removed.  They also make a nice subdued click when depressed, so you get positive feedback that the switch actually did what it was supposed to do.

 

Pretty happy with how it turned out.  The connector at the mainboard will eventually be replaced with a right-angle pin header (not enough vertical clearance for straight ones) and the current switch wiring redone with DuPont connectors, but that's not likely to happen unless the current wiring turns out to be more delicate than I'd prefer.

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