Where do you buy your s-video jacks that you use for your video mods?

[raymondjiii]

I thought these things would be all over the place but all I am finding is PCB mount and not one where it can fit into a drilled hole.

 

Thank you,

Ray

[+x=usr(1536)]

1 hour ago, raymondjiii said:

I thought these things would be all over the place but all I am finding is PCB mount and not one where it can fit into a drilled hole.

Is this the type you're looking for?

 

https://console5.com/store/s-video-jacks-panel-mount-black-plastic-housing-solder-type.html

[raymondjiii]

11 minutes ago, x=usr(1536) said:

Is this the type you're looking for?

 

https://console5.com/store/s-video-jacks-panel-mount-black-plastic-housing-solder-type.html

Yes, thank you! I looked there but I guess I did not look hard enough 😐

[+Nathan Strum]

I use these:

https://www.l-com.com/firewire-din-scsi-sata-mini-din-4-bulkhead-jack-leads-front-mount

[+-^CrossBow^-]

6 minutes ago, Nathan Strum said:

I use these:

https://www.l-com.com/firewire-din-scsi-sata-mini-din-4-bulkhead-jack-leads-front-mount

Those look awesome but would be too large for where I mount the jacks in 7800 consoles along the bottom section of the shell where RF cord wraps up. Too large overall and I can tell it is too deep to fit and wire in properly as well. And Yikes...that is some cost too at $18 each for low quantity orders?! I use the ones that were linked too from Console5 for most installs including the 7800, but I've also starting using the ones that Crayon King provides in his RGB kits in some situations as they might fit better even though I have to epoxy them in since they have no way to secure them in place.

 

[juansolo]

Got this lot on the way, £11 for 100... Considering it used to cost something like £8 for two of the other sort we used to use, these should last us a while if they're any good.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-x-PCB-Mount-4-Pin-Female-S-Jack-DVD-Mini-Din-Sockets-Connectors-/125792076451?nma=true&si=mQ36iUoiNhSo6MpeWmnY5r0Ouhk%3D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

[+-^CrossBow^-]

6 hours ago, juansolo said:

Got this lot on the way, £11 for 100... Considering it used to cost something like £8 for two of the other sort we used to use, these should last us a while if they're any good.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-x-PCB-Mount-4-Pin-Female-S-Jack-DVD-Mini-Din-Sockets-Connectors-/125792076451?nma=true&si=mQ36iUoiNhSo6MpeWmnY5r0Ouhk%3D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

I have something similar on my 32x I did several years ago that I made s-video output only. Worked great for that application but as I tend to keep the RF modulators in place for most of the consoles, there isn't anywhere for me to use a jack like that on most of my commissions and projects.

 

[juansolo]

We almost always pull them, or gut them and use the cases to put things into. Nobody uses RF here anymore, plus on any Jap/US consoles they simply don't work here over RF.

[+-^CrossBow^-]

7 minutes ago, juansolo said:

We almost always pull them, or gut them and use the cases to put things into. Nobody uses RF here anymore, plus on any Jap/US consoles they simply don't work here over RF.

I keep it in place for troubleshooting purposes and because the whole point of the UAV is to reverse it back to stock and not have to remove anything. So as the RF doesn't really get in the way or cause any issues being left in, I...leave it in. But yes if I were to remove them as you do, then I could see this being very useful for the s-video output. Still doesn't quite cover what is needed for the audio unless you go with a 3.5mm jack mounted on the channel select switch hole or something like that. But then you have composite to route also?

 

[juansolo]

3 minutes ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

I keep it in place for troubleshooting purposes and because the whole point of the UAV is to reverse it back to stock and not have to remove anything. So as the RF doesn't really get in the way or cause any issues being left in, I...leave it in. But yes if I were to remove them as you do, then I could see this being very useful for the s-video output. Still doesn't quite cover what is needed for the audio unless you go with a 3.5mm jack mounted on the channel select switch hole or something like that. But then you have composite to route also?

 

Current one we're doing he just wants S-Video and Phono for audio which is nice as I can board mount both. So I mount the audio phono where the channel select switch was. If they want composite only I tend to do it on a single 3.5mm stereo jack using the old RF modulator housing by either taking out the phono jack or hollowing it out and putting the stereo jack within. If they want both then it's an S-Video jack and a 3.5mm stereo jack. That can take more effort figure out what goes where. The few times I've done it I've used a hollowed out board mount frame with the stereo jack in the channel switch location then the S-Video mounted where the modulator was.

[Asaki]

3 hours ago, juansolo said:

Nobody uses RF here anymore...

It's making a comeback... O_O

[+x=usr(1536)]

3 hours ago, Asaki said:

It's making a comeback... O_O

Next thing you know, hipsters with their skinny jeans and IPAs will ruin it.

[+Nathan Strum]

21 hours ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

Those look awesome but would be too large for where I mount the jacks in 7800 consoles along the bottom section of the shell where RF cord wraps up. Too large overall and I can tell it is too deep to fit and wire in properly as well. And Yikes...that is some cost too at $18 each for low quantity orders?! I use the ones that were linked too from Console5 for most installs including the 7800, but I've also starting using the ones that Crayon King provides in his RGB kits in some situations as they might fit better even though I have to epoxy them in since they have no way to secure them in place.

Admittedly, I've only been using these in 2600s, where there are bucketloads of space. And I don't mind the cost, because they're cool.     For 7800s, I'm using pigtail cables so I don't have to install any jacks in the case.

[Sir Guntz]

What 7800 S-Video mod do you guys like to use with these panel mount connectors?

[juansolo]

5 hours ago, Sir Guntz said:

What 7800 S-Video mod do you guys like to use with these panel mount connectors?

Either a UAV with a few choice extras (Chroma shift and switching) or our own on veroboard. Depends on what they want and what they plan to plug it into. UAV has the edge if it's going into a panel (better filtering), ours into a CRT (slightly sharper). There's not a lot in it, but the UAV is the easier option.

Edited March 11, 2023 by juansolo

[raymondjiii]

On 3/10/2023 at 10:28 AM, -^CrossBow^- said:

I keep it in place for troubleshooting purposes and because the whole point of the UAV is to reverse it back to stock and not have to remove anything. So as the RF doesn't really get in the way or cause any issues being left in, I...leave it in. But yes if I were to remove them as you do, then I could see this being very useful for the s-video output. Still doesn't quite cover what is needed for the audio unless you go with a 3.5mm jack mounted on the channel select switch hole or something like that. But then you have composite to route also?

 

Do you sell that s-video upgrade for the UAV (from your video). I assume you created that pcb or is that from The Brewing Academy?

[+-^CrossBow^-]

1 hour ago, raymondjiii said:

Do you sell that s-video upgrade for the UAV (from your video). I assume you created that pcb or is that from The Brewing Academy?

The mount board under the UAV is m own design. It has a few components added to help with the colors a little better and it has the extra resistors and capacitor already on it for the audio. I've sold only about 3 or 4 to others and had made the rest for my own installs in the future. However, @MacRorie has the gerbers and BOM to mass produce them and hopefully offer them in the TBA store in the future as part of a new 7800 UAV kit. Would cost more of course as there are more parts and the PCB but it saves time in labor when installing the UAV and makes it more compact and standardized.

 

 

[raymondjiii]

Yeah, I would like to get that little board.

 

 

I got my first UAV mod done with many thanks to @-^CrossBow^- for his great instructions and videos. I'm going to have to glue that s-video jack into place but I have not tested it yet since I don't have any equipment with s-video anymore.

 

Now I have to do a couple of more of these mods - my kids all want one now - if you can believe that.

 

The part that I could not quite figure out was how to get the audio and video lines out from under the RF shield. I did want to keep the RF in place and the RF shield. I thought CrossBow - based on pictures - either removed the shield or just ran the wires between the board and shield. I decided to route mine out the back where there is a notch in the RF shield and let the wires "rest" under the bottom RF shield. Composite and audio work well though.

 

All four switches on this unit were shot! Replaced all of them with parts from Console5.

 

[+-^CrossBow^-]

46 minutes ago, raymondjiii said:

Yeah, I would like to get that little board.

 

I got my first UAV mod done with many thanks to @-^CrossBow^- for his great instructions and videos. I'm going to have to glue that s-video jack into place but I have not tested it yet since I don't have any equipment with s-video anymore.

 

The part that I could not quite figure out was how to get the audio and video lines out from under the RF shield. I did want to keep the RF in place and the RF shield. I thought CrossBow - based on pictures - either removed the shield or just ran the wires between the board and shield. I decided to route mine out the back where there is a notch in the RF shield and let the wires "rest" under the bottom RF shield. Composite and audio work well though.

 

All four switches on this unit were shot! Replaced all of them with parts from Console5.

 

Some things are best left to the imagination....

 

But no in all seriousness, what I used to do was to actually install the jacks on the opposite side along the bottom. That is because the UAV installs back then were closer to that side. So, I would actually remove the section of the RF shielding that is at a 45 angle near the power port. Just use a large pair of pliers to bend it all back and forth and it would usually break out quite cleanly. I would then use my bar file to remove any left over burrs on the shielding and make it as smooth as I could. Then as an additional measure so it doesn't cut through the wiring, I would apply some kapton tape around the edge of the break. 

 

Now with the mount boards, the UAV is on the opposite side and so I now install the jacks in the same place you did yours. Because of that, there is enough space around the RF modulator section of the RF shielding to just route the wiring through there and then back down.

 

And yes, there is actually enough space from the bottom RF shield and bottom shell for the wiring to just lay between. I don't do any modification to the bottom RF shield at all and with the new mount boards, I don't have to modify the top RF shield anymore. 

 

If you used the same s-video jacks from Console5 that was linked too, then the only glue or in my case I use epoxy, would be around the edges of the s-video jack on the inside. There is just enough thickness in the plastic that you should be able to get a full 2 threads of the securing nut to help hold it all in place while the glue or epoxy cures. I have also started to apply some epoxy to the threads of the RCA jacks because I've had a few 7800s now that I did a few years ago come back for additional services and the RCAs were already loose. I had hoped that the star lock washers I use vs the slip ring washer would hold them in place better but apparently not. I've also had MORE issues with those gold plated jacks than any others because the metal on them is way soft and I usually end up breaking the thread sleeve completely off the rest of the jack while tightening them. So I'm only planning to stay with the nickel plated ones going forward as they appear to be of much better quality metal overall and are able to handle the stress of my tightening them.

 

 

[raymondjiii]

4 hours ago, raymondjiii said:

Yeah, I would like to get that little board.

 

 

I got my first UAV mod done with many thanks to @-^CrossBow^- for his great instructions and videos. I'm going to have to glue that s-video jack into place but I have not tested it yet since I don't have any equipment with s-video anymore.

 

Now I have to do a couple of more of these mods - my kids all want one now - if you can believe that.

 

The part that I could not quite figure out was how to get the audio and video lines out from under the RF shield. I did want to keep the RF in place and the RF shield. I thought CrossBow - based on pictures - either removed the shield or just ran the wires between the board and shield. I decided to route mine out the back where there is a notch in the RF shield and let the wires "rest" under the bottom RF shield. Composite and audio work well though.

 

All four switches on this unit were shot! Replaced all of them with parts from Console5.

 

I want to apply the UAV to my 2600 now. I did the Console5 2600 refresh kit today and I see that whoever did my comp mod used a very basic one.

[juansolo]

Example of how we've done the board mount one here:

Considering it was my first doing it that way, I'll get neater once I've made a drilling template. I have a few more to practice with (£11 delivered from eBay seller).

 

Edited March 15, 2023 by juansolo