doubledown Posted April 28 Share Posted April 28 So a few years back I had started a thread detailing all of the custom controllers I was building at the time. That thread got pretty long, and went on for about a year and a half...so I figured I'd start a new thread now that I'm back around, and have the time for some new builds. I have previously built several twin-stick controllers, for a myriad of consoles, themed for myriad of games, but I've always used the large 17" x 11.5" or 20" x 11.5" Hammond enclosures for these. I wanted to try out a "smaller" enclosure, what I would consider medium-sized, to see how it felt/played in this smaller form factor. So presenting my: Robotron: 2084 Cabaret Edition - VVG Enhanced Controller This was built into a 14" x 8.5" Hammond enclosure. As this was going to be a smaller controller, I duplicated the artwork from the Robotron: 2084 cabaret arcade cabinets...as they were the medium sized cabinets...versus the large full-sized uprights and the small cocktail tables. The original arcade cabinets used WICO Heavy Duty leaf-switch joysticks, and leaf-switch pushbuttons...all which are silent...as they should be. But for this build I tried a new joystick made by QANBA, their Gravity Silent joystick w/ Cherry switches. The key with this joystick, is that it uses key-switches...not microswitches...so they are silent...as they should be. Additionally the joystick comes with both a square and round restrictor plate, so the round plate was installed, to match the round operation of the WICO originals. Then for the iL pushbuttons, I installed Rollie Leaf-Switches...so they are silent as well. These types of buttons don't have any sort of "factory" illumination options, as normally they were illuminated with some lighting source below the panel. Sometimes in arcade cabinets this was done with a small florescent lighting fixture below the panel, and sometimes it was done with several strategically placed incandescent bulbs near the buttons. Over the years there have been a few LED light options available at arcade parts suppliers, but they never seem to stay on the market too long. They might be available for 6 months or a year, then they're gone, and something new is out...it's a bit annoying. So I created a new LED lamp holding system for use with these types of buttons that I don't have to worry about them being discontinued, and included them here in this build. So the latching pushbutton in the upper right corner of the control panel surface is the On/Off switch for the LEDs. As the ColecoVision does not provide power at the controller ports like the Atari consoles do, I have in the past installed a small battery pack for LED operation when needed. In this instance, I simply wired the LEDs to the controller port, so the LEDs can only be illuminated when connected to an Atari (not a ColecoVision)...as I didn't want the extra expense and machining/installation time with this particular build. And as the ColecoVision and Atari consoles (2600/8-Bits/7800) all share a standard joystick and 1st button wiring scheme, this controller can be used on twin stick games for basically any of these consoles. The details of the controller/hardware are: ** Hammond 14" x 8.50" aluminum sloped top enclosure (braced, reinforced, & weighted) ** (2) QANBA Gravity Silent, w/ Cherry MX switches, w/ 2X springs, w/ GGG Hand Candy arcade red ball knobs ** iL PSL pushbuttons, w/ Rollie leaf switches, w/ VVG lamp holder w/ LED bulbs ** C&K 2PDT latching pushbutton switch, as On/Off switch for the LED illumination ** Rear-mounted cord cleats for cable management, w/ twin 10’ custom crimped controller cables, w/ port ID labels ** Robotron: 2084 cabaret arcade cabinet inspired, CPO artwork Enjoy! 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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