Which 5200 would you recommend to a new owner in 2023? The 4 port, 2 port or something else?

[RockLobster]

9 hours ago, LANC3L0T said:

I love the RockLobster name you picked... straight from the Amiga 500 motherboard!

Yes thank you!   Was definitely from the mobo which came from the B-52 song and not from the song itself.  

 

9 hours ago, LANC3L0T said:

I bought a 5200 DB15 to DB9 adapter from RetroGameBoyz

Fantastic to have learned this.  Thanks again.   I guess 5200 and ColecoVision hobbyists both hate OEM controllers.     I assume you can use a "Y" DB-9 adapter so you can press other buttons from a real controller as needed?

 

9 hours ago, LANC3L0T said:

I know I could buy the Atari 5200 Ultimate SD Cartridge, but the $130 price is quite high.

Is this from the Atarimax people?

[LANC3L0T]

1 hour ago, RockLobster said:

I guess 5200 and ColecoVision hobbyists both hate OEM controllers.     I assume you can use a "Y" DB-9 adapter so you can press other buttons from a real controller as needed?

The Atari 5200 adapter from RetroGameBoyz cost $60 and is basically a number pad that plugs into the 5200.  It has a 9 pin male port that you plug a joystick into.  The only games that don't work are those that require the analog input... I think Missile Command is one that does not work.  It looks like this:

They also sell one that has an arcade style joystick built in for $125, and looks like this:

 

1 hour ago, RockLobster said:

Is this from the Atarimax people?

The Multicart SD is sold by Atarimax and 8bitclassics for $129.

[RockLobster]

11 minutes ago, LANC3L0T said:

The Atari 5200 adapter from RetroGameBoyz cost $60 and is basically a number pad that plugs into the 5200.

oh that's perfect

 

11 minutes ago, LANC3L0T said:

They also sell one that has an arcade style joystick built in for $125, and looks like this:

That's hilariously retro and industrial.  love it

[Flyindrew]

I just had my Retrogameboyz joystick delivered this morning (at work now, so havent tried it yet). One thing to note about the joystick, they build it from scratch for you. That being the case, you will receive it about a month after you place the order. Just wanted to let you know its not like Ebay where you will get your product shipped in a short amount of time. This is not a complaint whatsoever. Just giving you a heads up should you decide to order one.

[LANC3L0T]

7 minutes ago, Flyindrew said:

I just had my Retrogameboyz joystick delivered this morning (at work now, so havent tried it yet). One thing to note about the joystick, they build it from scratch for you. That being the case, you will receive it about a month after you place the order. Just wanted to let you know its not like Ebay where you will get your product shipped in a short amount of time. This is not a complaint whatsoever. Just giving you a heads up should you decide to order one.

Great point, thanks for pointing that out!!  Let us know what your opinion after trying it out on a few games.  I think it makes many of the arcade style 5200 games so much easier to play.

 

For the games that require the standard 5200 joystick, I recommend going to https://www.best-electronics-ca.com  They have modern redesigned parts you can use inside the joysticks that will improve reliability and response.  Plus, they deserve our love and support for the numerous years they have devoted to the Atari community.

[RockLobster]

9 minutes ago, LANC3L0T said:

I recommend going to https://www.best-electronics-ca.com 

 

I see that they used the same web design language that conspiracy theorists used in the 90's...

[LANC3L0T]

4 hours ago, RockLobster said:

 

I see that they used the same web design language that conspiracy theorists used in the 90's...

Yeah their web site is not easy to navigate.  And you have to call them to place an order.  I don't mind though, because they are very pleasant and can offer advice if needed.

 

I bought and installed a couple of the 5200 power mod kits from Console5: https://console5.com/store/atari-5200-4-port-powered-switchbox-bypass-modification-kit.html

And this power supply to use after the MOD was complete: https://console5.com/store/triad-magnetics-power-supply-for-atari-5200-twin-famicom-pal-snes.html

 

I grew up with an Atari 2600 and bought a three 7800 systems and some games a few years ago.  I knew very little about the 5200 until buying a couple of systems and games last year.  I was interested in the fact that it had the Pokey sound chip on the motherboard, unlike the 7800.  That chip is also used in many 80's arcade machines, so the 5200 games are close to being arcade perfect.  The way you are currently eyeing the 5200, was pretty much how I felt last year.  🙂

 

FYI: You should feel comfortable buying used Atari systems... they are built like tanks!!  Every "untested" 2600 and 5200 system I bought of eBay worked.  I only had one 7800 system (out of three) that needed the power switch replaced.  If it doesn't work, the people in these forums get super excited to help figure out why a system doesn't work.  😄

[RockLobster]

35 minutes ago, LANC3L0T said:

I bought and installed a couple of the 5200 power mod kits

The power supply for both the 2-port and 4-port 5200 consoles are the same right?   With the exception that the power plug is directly on the console with the 2-port model?

 

Also I've ready issues about fire/sparks with the 4-port version?  Is this why people perform the power mod?

[RockLobster]

37 minutes ago, LANC3L0T said:

That chip is also used in many 80's arcade machines, so the 5200 games are close to being arcade perfect.  The way you are currently eyeing the 5200, was pretty much how I felt last year.

So the POKEY chip is in basically every 8-bit Atari console/computer except the 2600 and 7800?

[RockLobster]

39 minutes ago, LANC3L0T said:

Every "untested" 2600 and 5200 system I bought of eBay worked.  I only had one 7800 system (out of three) that needed the power switch replaced. 

Better luck than me!   So far 2 of 5 2600's have been bad and 1 of 2 7800's.   We'll see what happens when I get a 5200!

[Flyindrew]

Ok..just finished Retroboyz controller on 3 of my favorite games in my collection, Moon Patrol, Pac Man and Defender. I realize it's a small sample size. The review is kinda mixed.

 

Moon Patrol-The Retroboyz controller was amazing with this game. The joystick and button combo made it feel like you were playing an actual arcade cabinet. Controller response was on the money! Far superior than the original controller on this game.

 

Pac Man-The original 5200 controller is far superior with this game. I had a rough time moving up in a pinch. Even with fiddling with the dials, something about this game with the Retroboyz controller seemed a little bit off.

 

Defender-Id say this was an even draw with the original controller. 

 

I don't regret for a second buying the Retroboyz controller and for those of you who hate the original 5200 controller, it's a very nice alternative. I happen to love the original controller and will probably use the Retroboyz as a supplement. 

[LANC3L0T]

4 hours ago, RockLobster said:

The power supply for both the 2-port and 4-port 5200 consoles are the same right?   With the exception that the power plug is directly on the console with the 2-port model?

 

Also I've ready issues about fire/sparks with the 4-port version?  Is this why people perform the power mod?

 I did the power mod simply because it removes the need for a TV adapter (which was not included in either of the 4 port 5200's that I bought).  The systems I bought did not come with a power supply, but I do believe that original 2 and 4 port system's power supply works on a modded 4 port system... can somebody please verify this?

4 hours ago, RockLobster said:

Better luck than me!   So far 2 of 5 2600's have been bad and 1 of 2 7800's.   We'll see what happens when I get a 5200!

LOL.  I love tinkering with non-working systems, so I was a little bummed that most of them worked.  But, at the same time, I was very glad that none of the chips were dead.

 

How serious were the issues with your two 2600 systems and the 7800?  Did you get all three working?

[+-^CrossBow^-]

13 hours ago, LANC3L0T said:

And this power supply to use after the MOD was complete: https://console5.com/store/triad-magnetics-power-supply-for-atari-5200-twin-famicom-pal-snes.html

 

That is an great alternative, but you do realize that you don't need a new PSU after doing the power conversion right? The barrel jack you install is the same size as the 5200 original so you can still use the original 5200 power supply even after doing the conversion. 

 

I only mention this because I've seen folks state something similar and it is because they seem to think they need a new power supply to match and you don't. So while I do agree is a good power supply, only buy it if you don't have one or need a spare.

 

[RockLobster]

10 hours ago, LANC3L0T said:

 I did the power mod simply because it removes the need for a TV adapter (which was not included in either of the 4 port 5200's that I bought).

Yeah and it looks like they go for $25-30 these days too...

 

10 hours ago, LANC3L0T said:

I do believe that original 2 and 4 port system's power supply works on a modded 4 port system... can somebody please verify this?

I would love for someone to validate that the power supply (voltage, amp and connector) are the same for both the 2-port and 4-port models stock or modded.

 

10 hours ago, LANC3L0T said:

I was very glad that none of the chips were dead.

Are dead chips common with the 5200 like it is for the C64s?

 

10 hours ago, LANC3L0T said:

How serious were the issues with your two 2600 systems and the 7800?  Did you get all three working?

 

Well the 7800 had a bad RF module and I was going to just use it as Composite mod candidate but someone bought it off of me first.

 

The two 2600 systems... they seem to run bc I can see faint pictures but not sure what's going on yet.   Just got them this week.   Previous 2600s and two ColecoVision 2600 modules all worked.   tested on known good power supplies but no luck. haven't cracked open yet.  what should I look for first?

[+-^CrossBow^-]

4 hours ago, RockLobster said:

I would love for someone to validate that the power supply (voltage, amp and connector) are the same for both the 2-port and 4-port models stock or modded.

It is confirmed, while the two will show slightly different output voltages between the 2 models on their power supply shell, they actually put out about 14v without a load and then drop down do about 12v to the voltage regulators.

 

So.. in short, yes, either power supply for the 5200 can be used on either model of the 5200. 

 

 

[RockLobster]

22 minutes ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

yes, either power supply for the 5200 can be used on either model of the 5200. 

Thank you!

[+x=usr(1536)]

5 hours ago, RockLobster said:

The two 2600 systems... they seem to run bc I can see faint pictures but not sure what's going on yet.   Just got them this week.   Previous 2600s and two ColecoVision 2600 modules all worked.   tested on known good power supplies but no luck. haven't cracked open yet.  what should I look for first?

Check that the channel select switch is set to the channel that you're using, and also hit it with some contact cleaner.  I've seen a couple that rusted internally to the point of being only semi-functional at best; check Console5 if you find that you need a replacement.

[LANC3L0T]

13 hours ago, RockLobster said:

Are dead chips common with the 5200 like it is for the C64s?

The three 5200 systems I bought still work perfectly.  The only "chip" fault I remember reading about involved the common CD4013 Flip-Flop IC that can be picked up at console5 (or many other places):

https://console5.com/store/cd4013-flip-flop-ic-atari-5200-power-stuck-on-or-off.html

[RockLobster]

9 hours ago, LANC3L0T said:

The only "chip" fault I remember reading about involved the common CD4013 Flip-Flop IC that can be picked up at console5

Thank you, this is super helpful.  I love Console5's reasonable prices but I hate ordering just one thing at a time bc of shipping.   Will have to remember this and order some cap kits in conjunction if I ever need this.

[RockLobster]

18 hours ago, x=usr(1536) said:

Check that the channel select switch is set to the channel that you're using, and also hit it with some contact cleaner. 

yeah it's on my to-do to crack it open and at least deoxit the shit out of everything.  are there common chips or caps that fry without them visibly looking so?

[+x=usr(1536)]

1 hour ago, RockLobster said:

yeah it's on my to-do to crack it open and at least deoxit the shit out of everything.  are there common chips or caps that fry without them visibly looking so?

Other than the 4013 mentioned above, not really.  5200s are generally pretty solid, including the caps.  Note that I'm not the most extensively-experienced person around here with them, but I did get something of a being-thrown-in-the-deep-end education on their possible failure modes.

 

For background, my daily-driver 5200 came to me stone-cold dead, missing the RF modulator, and looking as though someone had started and subsequently aborted an A/V mod halfway through.  Long story short, the biggest problem I had with that one - at least from the standpoint of diagnosing it - ended up being dead transistors presenting effectively the same symptoms as a dead 4013.  Now, I did go through and replace the 4013 as well as the caps in that particular instance simply because the machine was so far gone (including a dead CPU), plus the voltage regulators, transistors, etc.  Firing the parts cannon at a problem isn't my preferred way of doing things, but in this case the machine seemed to have had a very hard life and better safe than sorry seemed like the best approach.  Besides, it was free, so any time and / or money I put into it was totally voluntary.

 

Anyway, the point of that aside was to say that a recap isn't necessarily going to be required out of the box - just run it, see if there are any problems, and take it from there.  The common failure modes on these machines are pretty well-known, and for the others we'll help to figure it out 

[RockLobster]

28 minutes ago, x=usr(1536) said:

Other than the 4013 mentioned above, not really.  5200s are generally pretty solid, including the caps. 

oh sorry, that comment was regarding my dead Atari 2600's.   

[0078265317]

Also there is another thread about a guy who made his own masterly clones.  He has a few left.

 

 

[LANC3L0T]

On 5/28/2023 at 11:41 AM, RockLobster said:

oh sorry, that comment was regarding my dead Atari 2600's.   

Based on some fun I had over the holiday weekend, I can give you my rookie advice.

Always start by checking the power coming out of the voltage regulator and large capacitor.  If those look good, pull out the RIOT, CPU and TIA chips one by one and test them in a known good system.  I prefer to go that route before trying known good chips in a faulty unit.

 

As for the fun I had:  I revived two Atari 2600's and made a few dollars from my local retro video game shop.  The shop owner said that the units were donated to him because both had defective video output.

I had to replace the RIOT chip in a 6-switch unit that at least tried to display something, but it was very messed up.

The 4-switch unit just showed a black screen with a thin vertical line on the left side.  It's RIOT chip worked fine in one of my good units.  But, the CPU did not.  I installed a spare CPU and everything worked great!!  Unfortunately, I had to de-solder both of them and add a sockets, unlike the 6-switch system that was already socketed.

 

While testing each system, I noticed that the RIOT and CPU chips ran much hotter than the TIA... so I have a hunch those two will fail far more often than the TIA.

[+x=usr(1536)]

7 hours ago, LANC3L0T said:

Always start by checking the power coming out of the voltage regulator and large capacitor.

A useful acronym I only picked up semi-recently:

 

Always

Start

At

Power

 

It's become something of a mantra.  Sometimes I even remember to follow it 

7 hours ago, LANC3L0T said:

As for the fun I had:  I revived two Atari 2600's and made a few dollars from my local retro video game shop.  The shop owner said that the units were donated to him because both had defective video output.

I had to replace the RIOT chip in a 6-switch unit that at least tried to display something, but it was very messed up.

The 4-switch unit just showed a black screen with a thin vertical line on the left side.  It's RIOT chip worked fine in one of my good units.  But, the CPU did not.  I installed a spare CPU and everything worked great!!  Unfortunately, I had to de-solder both of them and add a sockets, unlike the 6-switch system that was already socketed.

If it's any consolation: every time my daily-driver Junior is switched on, it makes a rumbling 'BRRRRRR' noise and shows a vertical grey stripe on the left side of the screen (which is otherwise black) for about three seconds.  After that, it's perfectly fine for however long it runs for regardless of whatever's in the cartridge slot.  I've decided not to make better the enemy of good enough by trying to fix it and just live with it