RickyDean Posted November 11 Share Posted November 11 (edited) Well just waiting for a few parts to com in next week and, after a bit more work I'll be able to join the Elite group of Ubergrom builders. And yes @Ksarul, I'm now aware that I put a .1uf Cap in the place that a 1nf cap should be, I'll change it as soon as I get them in. Got to busy populating it. Put this in the wrong thread though I believe, can a moderator move it? Edited November 11 by RickyDean added content 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Ksarul Posted November 11 Share Posted November 11 I know from experience what that particular mistake will do. I was sorting parts for the first batch of UberGROM boards I built and misread the value stamped on a bag of capacitors. I built ten boards with .1uF capacitors where the 1nF capacitors belonged and none of them worked. I spent a couple of weeks troubleshooting, and one day when I was looking for bad solder joints/shorted traces with my magnifying glass one of those capacitors came into my field of view and I had my facepalm moment. .1uF does not equal 1nF. I changed them out and the boards all started working. . .BTW, getting the 32-pin PLCC sockets into those holes can sometimes be a bit fiddly, especially if one or more leads is just slightly out of alignment. I usually look at that before I put them in and gently straighten the misbehaving pins, if needed. Another trick is to install the jumper block on the RA pin pair in the lower right corner of the board before you solder it into place, as you won't have issues squeezing it past the other components that way. Note the pads near that pair as well--if you attach wires and a push-button switch to them and mount it into the cartridge case, you now have a reset switch. You do need to remove the jumper block from the pins if you do this, but it is a neat little board option originally suggested by @acadiel. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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