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2600+ Power Brick, what should I get?


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Glad I saw this. I was afraid that when it said it came with a USB-C powercable that meant it was a C to C, but I assumed steadier minds prevailed, apparently not. Just ordered an A to C cable from Amazon.

 

I still can't understand why C-to-C is becoming more common when C to A makes infinitely more sense regardless of the situation.

It's akin to making a micro to micro charger. Like, you could do that... but why?

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I'd actually ordered a power block in anticipation for my Atari 2600+, and then ordered my GameStation Pro afterwards. When the GSP arrived, it too didn't come with a power block, so I just used that one. Seems to work well for both. I guess it makes sense... I don't really have a lot of devices, so I didn't have any USB-C power blocks, but now I have one.

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  • 3 weeks later...

There are a few people I've helped on social media and other forums who believe they had a DOA 2600+ because they've used a power configuration that isn't compatible with powering it for whatever reason.

 

As our Switch and Steam Deck docks are already nicely installed under our TV I first tried a quick swap over with the USB-C power source from them (the official Nintendo one and the official Valve one), neither would power the 2600+, so at that point I assumed mine was dead too.

 

I then found a very old Apple iPhone charging brick and used the supplied cable and it worked fine. Weirdly, when I plugged that into our extension lead that only powers on when a Master device is powered up (n our case the TV) it wouldn't work either, despite the TV being on and other devices drawing power from the same extension lead. 

 

I can see how people are assuming they have DOA units, especially as many people will have high powered USB bricks/fast chargers these days, which don't appear to play ball with it.

 

I also, oddly, have an issue with it not playing nicely with our HDMI switcher. I've tried multiple HDMI leads but the signal is just not getting through, I have to put the HDMI lead directly onto the TV for it to work. No other device has an issue with the switcher.

 

All the above means it unfortunately does not integrate nicely into our home setup and requires a bit of effort to fire it up, as we need to rearrange leads (power and HDMI) every time we want to use it.

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4 hours ago, ukaskew said:

There are a few people I've helped on social media and other forums who believe they had a DOA 2600+ because they've used a power configuration that isn't compatible with powering it for whatever reason.

 

As our Switch and Steam Deck docks are already nicely installed under our TV I first tried a quick swap over with the USB-C power source from them (the official Nintendo one and the official Valve one), neither would power the 2600+, so at that point I assumed mine was dead too.

 

I then found a very old Apple iPhone charging brick and used the supplied cable and it worked fine. Weirdly, when I plugged that into our extension lead that only powers on when a Master device is powered up (n our case the TV) it wouldn't work either, despite the TV being on and other devices drawing power from the same extension lead. 

 

I can see how people are assuming they have DOA units, especially as many people will have high powered USB bricks/fast chargers these days, which don't appear to play ball with it.

 

I also, oddly, have an issue with it not playing nicely with our HDMI switcher. I've tried multiple HDMI leads but the signal is just not getting through, I have to put the HDMI lead directly onto the TV for it to work. No other device has an issue with the switcher.

 

All the above means it unfortunately does not integrate nicely into our home setup and requires a bit of effort to fire it up, as we need to rearrange leads (power and HDMI) every time we want to use it.

My HDMI switcher works, but like USB, HDMI is one of those “standards” that didn’t seem to be created with a lot of thought given to the consumer experience so you have different cables with the same form factor to do different things. USB is so much worse! Seemed so promising as a replacement for 9- and 25-pin serial ports and parallel ports, but from non-reversible connectors to the myriad of different connectors it’s just been a mess from day one. Now we have the USB-C form factor being used for totally different protocols so you can have a cable that looks like it would work, but doesn’t because it’s actually thunderbolt-4 or whatever. But in the end the cables that come with your device should at least work, so I guess that’s something, but unless you have spare ports, it’s not ideal. I can’t blame Atari for that though - unless they’re part of the USB consortium, in which case “WHAT WERE YOU THINKING?”

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The Common Sense Cable Consortium (CSCC) says:

 

1.  If the plug fits; it's compatibility is guaranteed.

 

2.  Plugs can only fit in one possible orientation.

 

3.  A different cable type should be provided for each purpose (A/V I/O etc)

 

4.  Each cable type has different shapes.

 

Unfortunately, Ron Gooley, the founder of CSCC was mercilessly targeted through a highly effective "smear & erase" campaign orchestrated by the CIA in conjunction with aid from the CCP.  His whereabouts are currently unknown, and his existence is denied by the powers that be.

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  • 3 weeks later...

hi every one, i just found my old 2 plug usb wall adapter. it is a 5v 2.1a was wondering if i could use it on my atari 2600+. before i use it i want to make shure it would be safe and not blow my console up! please let me know!

Edited by remery467
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On 11/17/2023 at 9:01 AM, Laner said:

 

A lot of TV USB ports provide minimal power (and I don't know of many with usb-c ports); It may be better to get a separate power supply. Something like this should be more than sufficient: https://www.amazon.com/iPhone-Charger-Delivery-AirPods-Samsung/dp/B09CKBPZ34/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=2RP6N1VAOUND8&keywords=usb-c+power+adapter&qid=1700233183&sprefix=usb-c+power%2Caps%2C107&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

the 2600+ can run off that minimal power, it's designed to. If your TV or monitor doesn't have one it doesn't have one tho. 

Edited by tradyblix
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On 11/17/2023 at 4:01 PM, Laner said:

 

A lot of TV USB ports provide minimal power (and I don't know of many with usb-c ports)

The cable that comes with the 2600+ is USB-A to USB-C. So your TV only needs a simple USB-A port. Which all TVs of at least the last 10 years have. And minimal power is enough, even my cheap (~$10), small power bar (Poweradd Slim 2) can drive the 2600+.

Edited by Thomas Jentzsch
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37 minutes ago, Thomas Jentzsch said:

The cable that comes with the 2600+ is USB-A to USB-C. So your TV only needs a simple USB-A port. Which all TVs of at least the last 10 years have. And minimal power is enough, even my cheap (~$10), small power bar (Poweradd Slim 2) can drive the 2600+.

That is one of the nice things about the 2600+. You can use a portable hdmi screen with a dual port power bank and skip the hassle with cables. Good for retro-events where you want to show off your games :) 

 

At PRGE they even charge an extra $150 for a power socket to your table... In all other retro events I have visited the power socket was free.

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1 hour ago, Thomas Jentzsch said:

The cable that comes with the 2600+ is USB-A to USB-C. So your TV only needs a simple USB-A port. Which all TVs of at least the last 10 years have. And minimal power is enough, even my cheap (~$10), small power bar (Poweradd Slim 2) can drive the 2600+.

BTW: The R77 does not work from my power bar.

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12 hours ago, remery467 said:

hi every one, i just found my old 2 plug usb wall adapter. it is a 5v 2.1a was wondering if i could use it on my atari 2600+. before i use it i want to make shure it would be safe and not blow my console up! please let me know!

Yes, that will work just fine. The 2600+ will only draw the current that it needs.

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