Boschloo Posted January 7 Share Posted January 7 (edited) Quote I regret selling the 1902, honestly. Did it have analogue RGB? @OLD CS1 Edited January 7 by Boschloo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+OLD CS1 Posted January 7 Share Posted January 7 31 minutes ago, Boschloo said: Did it have analogue RGB? @OLD CS1 Yes, In the second picture in my listing, see the square hole next to the 9-pin connector -- that is the digital/analogue switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boschloo Posted January 7 Author Share Posted January 7 14 minutes ago, OLD CS1 said: Yes, In the second picture in my listing, see the square hole next to the 9-pin connector -- that is the digital/analogue switch. Mine has that and it does nothing. It's as fake as a thermostat in a Chinese hotel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boschloo Posted January 7 Author Share Posted January 7 BTW, I want to point out that the screen image was squashed when I first received that Commodore 1084-D. It was vertically compressed. I could not figure out how to fix it until I saw that "V-Height" hole. I thought that maybe there used to be a knob there that broke. Anyway, I stuck a long thin screwdriver in there. Suddenly the monitor made a sound like a car engine throwing a rod so I quickly moved around to the front to turn it off, thinking it blew up. But when I got there, the image was fixed. Bizarre. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+OLD CS1 Posted January 7 Share Posted January 7 6 minutes ago, Boschloo said: Mine has that and it does nothing. It's as fake as a thermostat in a Chinese hotel. How did you test it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+OLD CS1 Posted January 7 Share Posted January 7 Just now, Boschloo said: Suddenly the monitor made a sound like a car engine throwing a rod so I quickly moved around to the front to turn it off, thinking it blew up. But when I got there, the image was fixed. Bizarre. Might could use some internal work. That "pop" could be the flyback, or a capacitor, or... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boschloo Posted January 7 Author Share Posted January 7 1 minute ago, OLD CS1 said: How did you test it? I had the A500 hooked up to it, I flipped the switch, no difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+OLD CS1 Posted January 7 Share Posted January 7 Just now, Boschloo said: I had the A500 hooked up to it, I flipped the switch, no difference. You clean the switch? I remember I had a 1084 which would do weird stuff with the screen, which turned out to be the A/D switch needed some T.L.C. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boschloo Posted January 7 Author Share Posted January 7 1 minute ago, OLD CS1 said: You clean the switch? I remember I had a 1084 which would do weird stuff with the screen, which turned out to be the A/D switch needed some T.L.C. I haven't got this far, but, the power button is a pain to deal with. It turns on, then you have to massage it until it turns off. Something inside isn't catching. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eightbit Posted January 9 Share Posted January 9 On 1/7/2024 at 2:12 PM, Boschloo said: BTW, I want to point out that the screen image was squashed when I first received that Commodore 1084-D. It was vertically compressed. I could not figure out how to fix it until I saw that "V-Height" hole. I thought that maybe there used to be a knob there that broke. Anyway, I stuck a long thin screwdriver in there. Suddenly the monitor made a sound like a car engine throwing a rod so I quickly moved around to the front to turn it off, thinking it blew up. But when I got there, the image was fixed. Bizarre. The hole is there intentionally. There was never a knob. And, never stick a metal screwdriver in there to make adjustments! If you do, better be careful! Also noteworthy to add not to put pressure on that internal knob. They bend in quite easily and then you'll have fun trying to bend it back without opening the monitor to do so. Trust me from old experience The power switch type on the 1084 always breaks. What I used to do is wedge a matchbook cover into the switch to keep it on (if it would not stay in) and then use a power switch at the plug side to switch on and off the monitor. Or, if you can get it to engage and stay on, leave it that way and use an on off switch at the plug. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+OLD CS1 Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 2 hours ago, eightbit said: They bend in quite easily and then you'll have fun trying to bend it back without opening the monitor to do so. LOL "Ask me how I know." Yeah... I made that mistake once. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick3092 Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 On 1/7/2024 at 1:06 PM, Boschloo said: Mine has that and it does nothing. It's as fake as a thermostat in a Chinese hotel. I'm a little confused by this thread. This picture looks like a 1084D, but model 1902 is being thrown around in the first post and title? One thing to note on the 1902 is it never had analog RGB AFAIK. At least not from the factory (well, supposedly some very early ones did, but the vast majority did not). The 1902 schematics and PCB show that analog was originally planned, but at the last minute Commodore seems to have scrapped it. They closed up the 3 position switch hole so the switch could only select two RGBi modes and not analog. And they stopped populating a few passive components that connect to the switch. The good news is you can add in those missing passive components (a few resistors, electrolytic caps, ceramic cap, and jumper wires) and restore analog to the 1902. Then you just have to take a dremel tool to the case to allow the switch to move to the third analog position. I just did this to my 1902 last year. Works fine with any TTL analog RGB signals. I own both a 1902 and 1084D that I have worked on (recapped both, RGB mod on 1902). And despite the case looking similar, I can confirm the innards are very different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+OLD CS1 Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 5 hours ago, nick3092 said: One thing to note on the 1902 is it never had analog RGB AFAIK. At least not from the factory (well, supposedly some very early ones did, but the vast majority did not). I just pulled up a 1902 manual. The back of it in the manual does not match up to the 1902 I took pictures of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+OLD CS1 Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 5 hours ago, nick3092 said: The 1902 schematics and PCB show that analog was originally planned, but at the last minute Commodore seems to have scrapped it. 8 minutes ago, OLD CS1 said: I just pulled up a 1902 manual. The back of it in the manual does not match up to the 1902 I took pictures of. Okay, I was just looking at 1902A and 1902. Yes, my photos are of a 1902 and, according to the manual, as @nick3092 points out, that switch on the back is for POS and NEG RGBI. No analogue. Sorry about that. I still regret selling it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick3092 Posted January 11 Share Posted January 11 (edited) The 1902a is an abomination. Changing from RCA jacks to din for composite/svideo (and RGBi) was a terrible idea. And AFAIK, there is no easy way to restore analog RGB like on the non-A. Although I thought a while back I saw someone claim they figured it out. But I doubt it's as simple as populating a few empty part locations on the PCB like the non-A. Edited January 11 by nick3092 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+OLD CS1 Posted January 11 Share Posted January 11 40 minutes ago, nick3092 said: The 1902a is an abomination. Yeah, it looks like it would be a "CR" model. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m0nde Posted August 26 Share Posted August 26 I just took apart a 1084D to fix vertical height and other geometry problems and it was hellish to reassemble until I saw that the main board had a simple slot to fit back into the base. Then it just fit together like a glove. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motrucker Posted September 8 Share Posted September 8 (edited) When I read the OP had put a regular screwdriver in that "hole", I cringed. He's lucky to still have a working monitor. I think we have all been there however. Currently I am running my C-64C though a VGA CRT monitor. Every CBM monitor I owned has died. Edited September 8 by motrucker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leech Posted September 17 Share Posted September 17 (edited) On 9/8/2024 at 11:28 AM, motrucker said: When I read the OP had put a regular screwdriver in that "hole", I cringed. He's lucky to still have a working monitor. I think we have all been there however. Currently I am running my C-64C though a VGA CRT monitor. Every CBM monitor I owned has died. Yeah, I bought a set of POT adjusters for that very reason! I may as well share my horror/success story of one of my Commodore monitors. It is a 1084P-1. When I got it, it wasn't showing any blue, instead of white, it was yellow. I ended up being determined to fix it one day and played with all the calibration... turns out though, there is a red pot and blue pot on the mainboard, instead of the three colors that are on the board attached to the tube... after many hours of trying to adjust those (with aforementioned POT adjusters), I noticed the blue POT was bent slightly and touching a resistor... bent it out of place and BOOM, the blue color started to work! It literally was just shorting out against the POT and turning it to 0. https://www.amazon.com/SPECTROL-008T000-TRIMMER-ADJUSTMENT-TRIMMERS/dp/B00HKJ90V4/ Edited September 17 by leech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eightbit Posted September 25 Share Posted September 25 Well, you *could* use a little metal screwdriver. I have done it thousands of times in the past. It's fun. It's just like playing "Operation", except if you slip the buzz is much much stronger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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