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So, I was thinking today since I got a new laser cutter/engraving device was if I could use it to make a decent single-sided PCB.  This was so much easier than the toner transfer method!  I wanted to share this experience for all the other DIYers that like to make their own PCB and may have a laser engraver at their disposal.

 

First to let everyone know I purchased the xTool S1 20 watt version diode laser.

 

After some testing I was able to get what looks to be a usable PCB and it passes all continuity test too.  Just need to assemble it for a final test.

 

First, I tried to just use a sharpie to color the board and then invert the mirrored image to engrave.  But that did not really work that well, so I decided to paint the copper board and use the laser to engrave off the paint that was not going to be traces.

 

IMG_1953.JPG.f38e3e6a6f3cd0ea70adfe04a1414b1e.JPG

 

Once the paint dried, I put it on bed of my laser engraver, squared it up and got it ready to engrave.  I engraved a couple of different mirrored inverted images of a couple of different boards.  The laser engraved the paint right off as I wanted it to.  See below for the results.  

IMG_1955.thumb.JPG.01ad220981e07b23151de4091b3fba88.JPG

I cut the board in 1/2 and put it in the etching solution and left it for probably an hour.  Took all the copper off where the paint was engraved off.

IMG_1956.JPG.118e6ad2e5f09381a6b8b8d112da6c61.JPG

Using some acetone, I removed the paint from the copper that remained on the board, and I have to say that I am pretty impressed by the results.

IMG_1957.JPG.14052ec41066f9827b0e35e9c9e35cba.JPG

For anyone that wants to know my engraving settings that I used they are below:

 

xTool S1 20 watt diode laser 

Selected material 3mm basswood plywood since I was just taking off paint.

Power = 60%

Speed = 120mm/s

Pass = 1

Bitmap mode = grayscale

lines per cm = 100

Engraving mode = Bidirectional

 

 

 

 

Edited by Shift838
  • Like 11

Yay! Laser PCBs! 
 

I once hoped that the laser precision would allow for prototyping finer traces. But in my experiments, I only got as far as a working 1-sided Arduino with 0.1". 
 

What etch process did you use? I found the "regenerating copper chloride" process quite efficient. Vibrate the solution every minute or so. 
 

I see you etched away a large  area. I would try to minimize the copper being removed. That conserves your solution.


Another trick that I liked--if you are rasterizing a design, is to burn vector outlines of the traces. 
 

It looks like you hit upon a good paint for this. My friends and I tried a bunch of spray paints before getting one that stuck well all through the etching. 

 

Have fun with your laser! I know you are creative and persistent! 
 

 

  • Like 5

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