Another INTV controller adapter (WIP)

[petejk]

I cleaned up my Intellivision 2609's controllers, replaced the controller membranes, and still was not happy.

This put me on a quest to find an adapter that I could buy or assemble, that would allow me to use an Atari or SMS controller. Unfortunately it seems that grips03 is no longer making his.

 

Jay Tilton's schematics were linked in another thread, at https://web.archive.org/web/20060317145051/users.erols.com/tiltonj/games/tech/intvsticky.html

As I had never designed a PCB, I thought I should give it a go. Easyada had a learning curve of a couple of hours, but I think I have designed something that might work, so I have put an order in for some PCBs.

I decided to incorporate the Y splitter that Jay mentions into the PCB, giving input from the INTV, using a short DB9 extension, and connectors for the original INTV controller on one side, and the Atari/SMS controller on the other.

 

If anyone is interested, I've attached the schematic and gerber.

Suggestions (or pointing out errors that I have surely made) are welcome.Schematic_INTV Adapter.pdf

 

Gerber_INTV adapter.zip

Edited June 17 by petejk
Added PCB images

[+fdr4prez]

7 hours ago, petejk said:

Suggestions (or pointing out errors that I have surely made) are welcome.

Congrats - these are a nice little adapter.

 

Please take note that the website you reference does mention that you need to run a power wire from the console.

 

You appear to be getting power from the microUSB port.

 

 

In general, it would be best if you isolate the console from the adapter.

 

I've not built this specific adapter in the past, so I don't know how it will behave using the microUSB power, but in my other controller projects (completely different circuits) that are not isolated, then this can happen to the console:

 

Once the adapter is isolated, then the console behaves.

 

Hopefully this adapter is OK in this regard when using the microUSB power.

 

[petejk]

5 hours ago, fdr4prez said:

Congrats - these are a nice little adapter.

 

Please take note that the website you reference does mention that you need to run a power wire from the console.

 

You appear to be getting power from the microUSB port.

 

 

In general, it would be best if you isolate the console from the adapter.

 

I've not built this specific adapter in the past, so I don't know how it will behave using the microUSB power, but in my other controller projects (completely different circuits) that are not isolated, then this can happen to the console:

 

Once the adapter is isolated, then the console behaves.

 

Hopefully this adapter is OK in this regard when using the microUSB power.

 

Thanks for the feedback - I had been planning to use a Mini-USB 5v power supply, as I have a couple in my box 'o' cables & chargers.

However I should have at least one Mini USB charging cable in my box of cables that I could sacrifice (i.e. cut and make a pigtail out of), so as to grab power/ground from the console.

If the RF shielding in the console is a good ground, I would just need to identify a good +5v source within the console to tap, and hopefully the interference problem that you have highlighted can be avoided.

 

If I can't find a cable, there is always ebay, and they are cheap enough.

 

[+fdr4prez]

Grabbing power from the console will definitely avoid the interference problem that I mentioned. 

 

The size of the cable (miniUSB or microUSB) doesn't really matter - just use whatever is convenient for you. 

 

As I've not built one of these circuits before I'd be interested in seeing how the console reacts with using an external power source (like a USB phone charger) and this circuit - if you don't mind doing such an expirement. 

 

A quick test should be sufficient; at least it didn't kill my console and I did it a few times before I realized what was the cause. 

 

My controller project from that photo was using an Arduino, so it is completely different circuit from yours. 

 

My testing (that photo) was done on a Inty2 console and USB phone charger power, and we'd suspect that an original console would be the same. 

 

There is a reason why on that site it specifically mentioned to get power from within the console. 

 

After I added isolation to my project everything behaved normally. 

[+fdr4prez]

1 hour ago, petejk said:

so as to grab power/ground from the console.

If the RF shielding in the console is a good ground, I would just need to identify a good +5v source within the console to tap

I've not looked into where a good point of contact would be within the console. 

 

I suspect the 5v regular would be a great choice. 

 

It is unfortunate that the shield is in the way 

[+-^CrossBow^-]

3 hours ago, petejk said:

Thanks for the feedback - I had been planning to use a Mini-USB 5v power supply, as I have a couple in my box 'o' cables & chargers.

However I should have at least one Mini USB charging cable in my box of cables that I could sacrifice (i.e. cut and make a pigtail out of), so as to grab power/ground from the console.

If the RF shielding in the console is a good ground, I would just need to identify a good +5v source within the console to tap, and hopefully the interference problem that you have highlighted can be avoided.

 

If I can't find a cable, there is always ebay, and they are cheap enough.

 

Likely best to just grab +5 directly off the regulator on the PSU board. And yes you can use the shielding as ground. That is what INTV was doing to power the LEDs in the Super Pro and INTV III consoles. Although I'm not a fan of that since it means having to desolder that wire off the shield in order to work on the consoles. So I would also grab ground off the the edge traces of the main logic or PSU board as well. In fact, there is an unused ground pin already soldered in place on the PSU board. There model 1s have that separate power cable with the 2prong molex like connector on it next to the 7812 regulator. Only one wire is used for the additional power to the CPU section, but the other is an unused ground.

 

 

[petejk]

11 hours ago, fdr4prez said:

Grabbing power from the console will definitely avoid the interference problem that I mentioned. 

 

The size of the cable (miniUSB or microUSB) doesn't really matter - just use whatever is convenient for you. 

 

As I've not built one of these circuits before I'd be interested in seeing how the console reacts with using an external power source (like a USB phone charger) and this circuit - if you don't mind doing such an expirement. 

 

A quick test should be sufficient; at least it didn't kill my console and I did it a few times before I realized what was the cause. 

 

My controller project from that photo was using an Arduino, so it is completely different circuit from yours. 

 

My testing (that photo) was done on a Inty2 console and USB phone charger power, and we'd suspect that an original console would be the same. 

 

There is a reason why on that site it specifically mentioned to get power from within the console. 

 

After I added isolation to my project everything behaved normally. 

When the PCBs arrive, hopefully within the next week or so, I definitely will test both using external and console power.

 

Your controller project sounds intriguing - do you have any details you care to share?

[petejk]

9 hours ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

Likely best to just grab +5 directly off the regulator on the PSU board. And yes you can use the shielding as ground. That is what INTV was doing to power the LEDs in the Super Pro and INTV III consoles. Although I'm not a fan of that since it means having to desolder that wire off the shield in order to work on the consoles. So I would also grab ground off the the edge traces of the main logic or PSU board as well. In fact, there is an unused ground pin already soldered in place on the PSU board. There model 1s have that separate power cable with the 2prong molex like connector on it next to the 7812 regulator. Only one wire is used for the additional power to the CPU section, but the other is an unused ground.

 

 

That’s a good point - taking my console apart, and having to deal with a stray power cable soldered to the shield would be good to avoid.

 

I like the idea of being able to grab 5v and ground from them power board - thanks

[+fdr4prez]

4 hours ago, petejk said:

Your controller project sounds intriguing - do you have any details you care to share?

my signature has links to two "plug-n-play" projects.

 

In regards to actual Intellivision controllers, for now, it is just these two:

 

 

Work and home life is keeping me busy to get much work done on them.

 

But wonderful things are happening in the background.

 

[+evg2000]

If you are interested in different type of controllers I did a paddle controller for both the INTV and the CV.  I sold a handful of INTV paddles, but they were pricey so I created a cheaper, different version and  open sourced it.
https://github.com/evg2000/ATTiny84_Version3.1

[petejk]

The PCBs finally arrived today, so I was able to solder the DigiKey acquired parts in place.

I should have a chance to mod my Intellvision 2609 this weekend and test them out.

When (if?) confirmed working, if anyone wants the BOM, I’ll post it here.

[petejk]

 

So I got sidetracked by work last weekend, but I was able to add controller ports and mini USB out to my Intellivision 1 today.

 

The “30cm” mini usb pigtails I bought from eBay were predictably short, so I had to extend wiring from the power board. I was able to snake them out of the bottom of the case. DB9 ports were mounted out of the rear of the case.

 

I cut off the original connector, and used these DB9 replacements that allow a solder free crimp of the existing wires. Some heat shrink over the top adds some strength.

 

 

Here are the mini USB cables. My next steps will be to buy a pair of 6 foot mini usb extensions to extend the power along with the 6 foot joystick extension. Taping them together could look quite neat running from the console to the couch.

 

What better stick to test with than a freshly refurbished CX-40, with new parts from Best Electronics?

 

The adaptors work flawlessly. I was pleasantly surprised that there were no issues, other than my needing to remove the metal port surround on the ‘From INTV’ DB9 to allow the short 9 pin extension, pictured, to fit. Zaxxon was my test game, and it is fun to play with a joystick!

 

Next steps:

 - Figure out how to design a 3D printed case for the adaptors. It should just be a basic cube with 4 holes, 3 for controller ports and 1 for power (or maybe someone smarter than me on this forum could help me out?!)

 - Wait impatiently for Mini USB extension cables to arrive so I can game from my couch!

 - Wait even more impatiently for Atari Blueretro adaptors to arrive from AliExpress, so that I can test some more modern wireless controllers with my Intellivision.

[petejk]

And as promised, I've attached the BOM (Digikey).

 

 

BOM.csv

[petejk]

I decided not to be helpless, and designed a case in Tinkercad.

STL file is attached. Plan is to cut the ports out with a craft knife/drill,to ensure the placement is right, and then glue the two halves together once test fit.

Hoping that PLA 75% infill will be strong enough!

 

INTV adapter case v1.stl