Two-Player Kiosk

[+Saturn]

Hey Saturn,

 

Fascinating.  I checked my other Kiosk, it doesn't have the front cut for 2 player, but does have the holes drilled underneath for the controller(s).  In looking at your pics it appears yours was originally a 2 player Kiosk and then someone created that center cut to make it a 1 player.  The 2 outside cuts look clean, but that middle one looks rough.  Is it just the pic or does that sound right?

Yes, that about sums it up. Though the edges are a little rough on the two outside cuts, that center one is especially jagged.

 

Maybe if the center cut had been a little to the left or right, I could've added a fourth cutout and a team tap for a four player kiosk.

 

BTW, my kiosk is missing the arm that is supposed to hold the controller. Does anyone have an extra or know where I could get one?

I don't have an extra one but I pulled back the rubber(?) sheath and it looks like a piece of cable or wire rope inserted into two 3/8" I.D. tubes (one on each end) with the arm welded to one of the tubes and a plate welded to the other which is somehow fastened to the controller. I'd take mine all apart and see how it was done but I'd probably break something. Have a knack for that.

 

The arm doesn't look to hard to make and there's a welding shop nearby. Now, if I only had the cajones to try it...

[jaysmith2000]

Yes, that about sums it up. Though the edges are a little rough on the two outside cuts, that center one is especially jagged.

 

Maybe if the center cut had been a little to the left or right, I could've added a fourth cutout and a team tap for a four player kiosk.  

 

 

Ooooohhhh, 4 player Kiosk, now that would be something to see! I sure love the Jaguar Kiosks, they are so frickin' cool looking!

 

Jason

[+Saturn]

Hey, I was looking at the front of my kiosk again and if you notice in my pics, there's a slight roundedness (<--is that a word?) to the front fiberglass part where the controller bracket is. The bracket is actually pushing it back and holding it tightly in place.

 

It may seem obvious, but I never really payed attention to why it was like that or examined it this closely. I just assumed it was the dumbass freight company that delivered it. It got shaken up pretty roughly on the trip from Mass.

 

I'm going to take the bracket off and check it out. If I can snake somebody local into making a few more, I'll post it here and if anybody needs one, maybe I can help.

 

Edit:

This is going to be a bigger deal than I thought. There's a second bolt a few inches further back on the bracket. I didn't see a quick way to get to it since that bolt and the nut encompassing it are shielded between the upper and lower portions where that orange adaptor(?) plate is at. When I find more time, probably this weekend, I'll remove the front door panel and take out the bolts holding the two sections together.

[K3V]

If you are able to get the controller bracket replicated be sure to let me know, I'll be first in line

[+Saturn]

If you are able to get the controller bracket replicated be sure to let me know, I'll be first in line  

Cool.

Well, I was able to seperate the kiosk tonight and I managed to remove the bracket. The controller is still fastened to the bracket and there's four slight protrusions visible beneath the paint, like maybe screw inlets are spot welded on the other side. Can someone fill me in on how to open this controller without damaging it? I need to check out how it's built and any info would help.

 

The "arm" of the bracket where the screws insert is about 9 1/4" long with about a 37° bend @ the 2" mark. The holes are @ 1 1/4" and 6 1/4" from the "clean" end. The material itself is regular carbon steel, I believe, but it has an odd shape to it. Looking at it from the end, it's shaped like a "C" or more like a "[". Don't know how hard it will be to find that.

K3V, are you looking for an EXACT replica? I found a couple more places today that might be able to do something with this. I'll try to find out.

 

On another note, after I removed the bracket, the pressure was released from the fiberglass in front and it went back to it's original shape. I couldn't believe how easily the plexiglass door slid back and forth.

 

That center controller would've worked flawlessly if the cutout was just a little higher.

 

Here's some pics...

[K3V]

Saturn:

 

I don't necessarily need an exact replica, but something close would be great.

 

Looking forward to any future progress reports

 

-Kevin

[Tyrant]

This is a really interesting thread, and making me very jelous .

 

Opening controllers: I use the point of a metal nail file to remove the 4 rubber discs, and stick them to something shiny (the serial no sticker) to keep their stickyness (very important), then undo the 4 crossheaded screws. Once you can get to the insides you should be able to work out how its held onto the arm, even if its not something you can un-do without destroying the back half of the controller (which is hardly a huge loss hehe).

 

Making new arms: While its slightly off topic I know, when I get some money (ie a job) I'm going to replace a little damage to one of the arms on my dreamcast kiosk, and possibly get someone to make me up a pair of Y arms so I can play gauntlet legends 4 player , perhaps even at JFUK next year if someone has a van and wants to give me a lift.

[jaysmith2000]

This is a really interesting thread, and making me very jelous .

 

Opening controllers: I use the point of a metal nail file to remove the 4 rubber discs, and stick them to something shiny (the serial no sticker) to keep their stickyness (very important), then undo the 4 crossheaded screws. Once you can get to the insides you should be able to work out how its held onto the arm, even if its not something you can un-do without destroying the back half of the controller (which is hardly a huge loss hehe).

 

Making new arms: While its slightly off topic I know, when I get some money (ie a job) I'm going to replace a little damage to one of the arms on my dreamcast kiosk, and possibly get someone to make me up a pair of Y arms so I can play gauntlet legends 4 player , perhaps even at JFUK next year if someone has a van and wants to give me a lift.

 

That sounds sweet Nick! Plus, seeing your name here reminds me that I need to take a pic of my "Tyrant Rotary" to put on my web-site.

 

Jason

[+Saturn]

 

Opening controllers: I use the point of a metal nail file to remove the 4 rubber discs, and stick them to something shiny (the serial no sticker) to keep their stickyness (very important), then undo the 4 crossheaded screws. Once you can get to the insides you should be able to work out how its held onto the arm, even if its not something you can un-do without destroying the back half of the controller (which is hardly a huge loss hehe).

Thanks for the info.

I actually looked up this thread, though and went on and cracked this baby open last night. I'd been able to replicate everything up to this point but this part might take a little longer. Should be do-able, just taking slightly longer. I'll add shots of the harness inside the controller (and a more detailed update) when I have more time.

 

[+Saturn]

Okay, I made a ton of progress Friday as far as finding material for the arm and even found a close match for the cable supporting the controller. I think the original is 3/8" and the kind I located is half inch.

 

The thickness of the plugs(?) that the cable fits into on the original is extremely thin. I couldn't find anything this gage so I substituted half inch pipe which has a very noticeable larger outside diameter. This I don't like because it adds weight and bulky size to the mount. Dunno what to do about that as I haven't been able to find anything better....yet. The top plug is 1" and the bottom plug is 2" in length.

 

Back to the arm, that original piece was formed or pressed into the "[" shape. This old dude said they don't have stuff that small so what I was able to recreate isn't 100% accurate. I don't have my camera or the pieces so I can't shoot pics right now.

 

I opened up a bunch (4) of standard controllers to have a peek at the insides. Nothin' to it.

 

*was sweating bullets*

 

Inside the original controller were four nuts fixed around all-thread screws that were apparently spot welded to the plate that's on bottom of the controller. I had suspected this because of the protrusions. Far as I know, this will be impossible for me to recreate. May consider drilling straight through the plate and adding small screws, nuts and washers instead. The only real difference would be the four visible screw heads underneath the controller (instead of a near smooth plate surface). I removed a U shaped (w/ squared corners) bracket from the inside of the original controller that had four matching holes in it. Maybe this was in place for stress?

 

I have plates made up and brackets for the inside but the only material available that was this thin was 409 stainless steel. The original being carbon. It may work but will have to have the holes punched instead of drilled- which I'm told is impossible (I wonder why ). Don't know how long that could take.

 

Whatcha think, K3V? Worth pursuing or getting too far away from the original?

[jaysmith2000]

Okay, I made a ton of progress Friday as far as finding material for the arm and even found a close match for the cable supporting the controller. I think the original is 3/8" and the kind I located is half inch.

 

The thickness of the plugs(?) that the cable fits into on the original is extremely thin. I couldn't find anything this gage so I substituted half inch pipe which has a very noticeable larger outside diameter. This I don't like because it adds weight and bulky size to the mount. Dunno what to do about that as I haven't been able to find anything better....yet. The top plug is 1" and the bottom plug is 2" in length.  

 

Back to the arm, that original piece was formed or pressed into the "[" shape. This old dude said they don't have stuff that small so what I was able to recreate isn't 100% accurate. I don't have my camera or the pieces so I can't shoot pics right now.  

 

I opened up a bunch (4) of standard controllers to have a peek at the insides. Nothin' to it.  

 

*was sweating bullets*

 

Inside the original controller were four nuts fixed around all-thread screws that were apparently spot welded to the plate that's on bottom of the controller. I had suspected this because of the protrusions. Far as I know, this will be impossible for me to recreate. May consider drilling straight through the plate and adding small screws, nuts and washers instead. The only real difference would be the four visible screw heads underneath the controller (instead of a near smooth plate surface). I removed a U shaped (w/ squared corners) bracket from the inside of the original controller that had four matching holes in it. Maybe this was in place for stress?  

 

I have plates made up and brackets for the inside but the only material available that was this thin was 409 stainless steel. The original being carbon. It may work but will have to have the holes punched instead of drilled- which I'm told is impossible (I wonder why ). Don't know how long that could take.

 

Whatcha think, K3V? Worth pursuing or getting too far away from the original?

 

Cool stuff Saturn! I don't think the screws underneath are a big deal, definitely not noticeable unless you're looking underneath. I think you should go for it. I'm sure there are others out there that would like to add a second controller to their Kiosks.

 

Jason

[+Saturn]

Cool. Maybe I could sell a conversion kit- at cost- to people who want the mod.

 

 

The cost so far is pretty cheap.

 

@ like .05¢ a pound for the metal, I'm up to a dime.

[K3V]

Sounding great to me...at this point anything will beat what I've currently got - a big hole with nothing sticking out

 

-Kevin

[+Saturn]

Sounding great to me...at this point anything will beat what I've currently got - a big hole with nothing sticking out

Cool.

I'm throwing around an idea so let me know what you think. If I can make a couple of arms to use on my kiosk, maybe we can work out a trade or something for the original. That way I'd have two matching arms and you could sport an original. If I ever needed info on an original, I could always check here or even save the thread. <--(thinking out loud )

 

If progress keeps up at this rate, hopefully I can have some *prototypes very soon. Right now I have a handful of unassembled/unfinished parts and then there's the welding and punch process...

 

 

* had to use the word prototypes here since this might be my one and only chance to with a Jaguar related idea.

 

 

 

EDIT:

Hey K3V,

I was checking out your pic on page 1 and though the first (closer to the front edge) screw is missing, it looks like there's part of an original arm in place. Like it was cut off with a hacksaw or something.

 

Can you tell how much is left?

[+Saturn]

Just a quick update.

 

Had to ditch the 409 stainless steel. There's something wrong with that stuff. I saw the end result of trying to punch a hole and it literally demolished the plate.

 

Found some 16 gage carbon steel and had the plates (8 of them) cut. I just finished drilling the holes and tested them against the hole layout in the original controller and they all fit perfectly with the bolts inserted. Also, the wire ropes have been welded in their plugs so that part's out of the way.

 

Now to check on the arms....

[K3V]

Yep, there is part of it in there, looks like it broke off, probably when the game store I got it from was moving it around or something. It's not a clean cut so I doubt it was intentional. It's broken off right where the wood ends, and looks like from there back it's one piece.

[+Saturn]

I have the arms but I made the design a little different. Instead of one piece welded together, I made two seperate ones so I could change out controllers for different playing options. I also cut off the excess length in the rear. It seemed useless...

[+Saturn]

I took a pic of the new arms in place. I pulled the upper half of the kiosk forward to tighten the rear bolt. Everything worked perfect.

 

I found some 1" HALEX conduit anchors w/ set screws and used them for securing the cable controller "stands." That way the stands are interchangeable for rotary controllers.

I still have to paint them, though.

 

I also took a pic of the bracket after I tightened it to the stand. Also a shot from the other side of the stand itself.

[+Saturn]

I went ahead and used the center controller since the fiberglass(?) was already cut out. I forgot to smooth out the cut before I fastened the arm, but I have a die grinder with a small enough blade to get in there without damaging anything.

 

The first is a shot of two standard controllers w/ a Tyrant Rotary in the center. I have another Tyrant Rotary on it's way and I'll attach a stand to it when it arrives. The best part is that I can switch them out in seconds.

 

The second shot is of the bolt heads visible on bottom

 

The last shot is a close-up to show the angle I'd bent the arms to so the controllers wouldn't be crowded. Worked perfectly. I wasn't too enthusiastic about the 90º straight up position the originals were set at. When I grabbed the controller I had to pull it down and toward me to hold it comfortably. Now, I just play

 

The only thing I can't find is the accordian style rubber(?) sheath that covers the cable and hides the controller cord. Can anyone enlighten me? I sure need some.

[Tyrant]

Awwww, that gives me such a warm fuzzy feeling hehe, one of my babies as part of a kiosk...

[K3V]

Very cool! Good idea getting the rotary controller on there in the middle too

[+Saturn]

...one of my babies as part of a kiosk...  

Heh, and soon to be two

[+Saturn]

Very cool! Good idea getting the rotary controller on there in the middle too

Thanks.

 

If you're interested in that original, shoot me a PM or something.

[K3V]

Thanks.    

 

If you're interested in that original, shoot me a PM or something.

 

PM sent

[K3V]

Hey Saturn, Jay or anyone else with a kiosk -

 

Next time you're taking pics, could you snap a photo of the fluorescent light fixture that's in the back of the kiosk? I'm trying to find a replacement since it's missing in my kiosk and I'd like to get one that's as close to the original as possible.

 

TIA