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13 hours ago, Ben from Plaion said:

We've already shipped Atari 2600+ with updated cart sockets to Plaion US, which supplies Amazon and to Atari who supply Atari.com.

 

They both probably have some inventory of rev 1 which is now being mixed with rev 2 with the upgraded socket.

 

Ahh that is some awesome news, thanks for the update. I hope Amazon can somehow point out which rev you may receive, bit of a lottery else!

8 minutes ago, bent_pin said:

If they have the same UPC, which they probably do, then Amazon will not be able to differentiate. 

That would be a shame, I know the boxes will be marked somewhere as rev 2 but as you say, I don't think Amazon will list them as such. This will probably mean obtaining from an ebay listing as a verified rev 2 unit and price scalped accordingly :( sighs

19 minutes ago, acidbottle said:

That would be a shame, I know the boxes will be marked somewhere as rev 2 but as you say, I don't think Amazon will list them as such. This will probably mean obtaining from an ebay listing as a verified rev 2 unit and price scalped accordingly :( sighs

I doubt they'll bring a premium, more likely the 1st revision's value will be lessened. There are plenty of them and new ones being made, plus the 7800+ is also available.

  • 2 weeks later...

Got mine today also - works a treat.  Pics below of:
1) New arrival package (thanks Ben!)
2) Out with the old - in with the new
3) All back together - including hdmi board (had to flex the plastic case a bit to get all to fit back).
4) All buttoned up.
5) Working like a charm
 

CartPortSwap1.jpg

CartPortSwap2.jpg

CartPortSwap3.jpg

CartPortSwap4.jpg

CartPortSwap5.jpg

  • Like 6
2 hours ago, kjames_s_2000 said:

 

CartPortSwap2.jpg

Your machine is clearly from a later production run, where the connections between the IO board and the lever-boards are on the other side, which means that you don’t need to twist the ribbon cable when installing the new IO board.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
2 hours ago, Dionoid said:

Your machine is clearly from a later production run, where the connections between the IO board and the lever-boards are on the other side, which means that you don’t need to twist the ribbon cable when installing the new IO board.

Good spot you're right.

  • Like 1

Mine also arrived today, although unfortunately in pretty bad condition (not Ben's fault, the post office was obviously pretty rough with it). The pins were bent, one electrolytic capacitor was also pushed almost 90° to the side, I have gotten the feeling that someone had stepped on the envelope. The rebuild was then a pretty rough affair, as I had to bend everything back into place with quite a lot of force. To my astonishment, I have to say that everything still works perfectly. I haven't been able to do much testing yet, but the first two carts I've pushed in are definitely working. Thanks again, Ben! :)

 

  • Like 2
1 hour ago, Commander Grog said:

Mine also arrived today, although unfortunately in pretty bad condition (not Ben's fault, the post office was obviously pretty rough with it). The pins were bent, one electrolytic capacitor was also pushed almost 90° to the side, I have gotten the feeling that someone had stepped on the envelope. The rebuild was then a pretty rough affair, as I had to bend everything back into place with quite a lot of force. To my astonishment, I have to say that everything still works perfectly. I haven't been able to do much testing yet, but the first two carts I've pushed in are definitely working. Thanks again, Ben! :)

 

Solid state business, can withstand a bit of hammer, nice to hear.

3 minutes ago, Ripweade said:

Does someone have the link to the tutorial someone wrote up about replacing the cartridge socket board?  I went to change mine out tonight and after making sure the screws were out of the cartridge board and the HDMI board, I just couldn't get it out.  I didn't want to break anything, so I stopped.

I just swapped the board out on mine a bit ago. I actually had to remove every screw honestly. The two screws for the HDMI and I was able to pull it off and out. But then as I have an original release model of the 2600+ the switch boards expect the flat cables to be at the top and not the bottom as they are on the replacement boards. So I just had to remove it all. The biggest pain for me was getting it all back together with the new board inserted into the cartridge sleeve area since that is all molded into the front bezel section. But I did get there in the end. I also noticed that when I replaced the original cartridge port on my original 2600+ board that I apparently had a slight angle on it. Likely allowed it to be easier to slide back in without having to remove everything, but it also made it tricky to insert games properly. That was one reason I wanted one of the newer board sets.

 

  • Like 1

Just as a litte status report: I now (don't judge, I'm a little...uhm...thorhough) have tested all my 82 2600 games and everyhing works perfectly. The grip of the slot is pretty tight, but that might change after some use.

Edited by Commander Grog
  • Like 1
1 hour ago, nopaybob said:

New socket but it's soldered on upside down :(

I was wandering what the heck I was doing wrong because it wouldn't go back together right.

The top pcb is the new one.

 

20241002_203435.jpg

Time to play Atari 2600+ De/Re-soldering 😅. Probably more my idea of a fun game than most others hehe.

Sorry to see this happened though! 

5 minutes ago, Striker667xbl said:

Time to play Atari 2600+ De/Re-soldering 😅. Probably more my idea of a fun game than most others hehe.

Sorry to see this happened though! 

I'm definitely not any good at soldering, everything I've done looks burnt and crappy.

  • Like 1
6 hours ago, nopaybob said:

I'm definitely not any good at soldering, everything I've done looks burnt and crappy.

I had to look twice to understand the problem😞

I use the item from the pic for desoldering.

The German word for it is Lötsauglitze😅

 

0002267_soder-wick-users-guide.jpeg

  • Haha 1
14 minutes ago, DEANJIMMY said:

I had to look twice to understand the problem😞

I use the item from the pic for desoldering.

The German word for it is Lötsauglitze😅

 

0002267_soder-wick-users-guide.jpeg

The English word for it is printed on the item (with a spelling error) 😉 Solder Wick. Personally I like a desoldering gun (expensive) or desoldering pump with heating element (cheap) more.

  • Like 1
10 minutes ago, Fred_M said:

The English word for it is printed on the item (with a spelling error) 😉 Solder Wick. Personally I like a desoldering gun (expensive) or desoldering pump with heating element (cheap) more.

I used to use a normal pump and liked this solder wick much more😊

And for the last quarter of my live, I do not want to desolder much, so the gun would be too expensive indeed😉

Pump with heating element sounds like a good tool, too.

  • Like 1

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