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are any still available? would love to have one and can provide a picture if needed some of my cartridges dont load unless you jiggle it around and insert the cartridge in a very specific way usually the ones that do it are some of the 20th century fox ones i.e deadly duck and worm war 1 another that sometimes does it is space chase unless i insert it at a angle it will not load no matter what

Edited by Cody2000

I’m curious when these will be at retail. Will they be labeled differently on Amazon or on the official Atari site?
 

I missed this thread to participate in the giveaway, but would love to have the latest rev once they are available, and am ok with ordering one so long as I was assured of getting the new rev. 

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13 hours ago, MikeM_ said:

I’m curious when these will be at retail. Will they be labeled differently on Amazon or on the official Atari site?
 

I missed this thread to participate in the giveaway, but would love to have the latest rev once they are available, and am ok with ordering one so long as I was assured of getting the new rev. 

There is a R2 next to the SKU number above the barcode that denotes upto date software and new cart socket. However I doubt Amazon or Atari have the means to inform you whether what you are ordering would be that version as they both are likely to have some residual stock around of the launch version.

 

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Just swapped my socket out. It took more talent than I expected. Im happy with the results. I thought it started up more confident the the other board. That could be in my head and all. none of the games I tried made me take them out and put them back in. Im super happy @Ben from Plaion YOU ARE THE MAN!!! I didn't need the ribbon cables. I know someone had issues with their cables not fitting right. Im willing to donate my extras to the cause!!

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Edited by T.Bone
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19 hours ago, Ben from Plaion said:

There is a R2 next to the SKU number above the barcode that denotes upto date software and new cart socket. However I doubt Amazon or Atari have the means to inform you whether what you are ordering would be that version as they both are likely to have some residual stock around of the launch version.

 

image.thumb.png.1092053bdc5717da4e6934416ccfd735.png

I did end up reaching out to Atari.com regarding the R2, and they replied saying that they "don't have exact information on this" but that they "forwarded my query to the appropriate team" and they would follow up with me once they receive a response.

That's more or less what I was expecting them to say. I'm not holding my breath, but I'll update back here if I do hear anything :) 

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On 10/16/2024 at 2:34 PM, T.Bone said:

Just swapped my socket out. It took more talent than I expected. Im happy with the results. I thought it started up more confident the the other board. That could be in my head and all. none of the games I tried made me take them out and put them back in. Im super happy @Ben from Plaion YOU ARE THE MAN!!! I didn't need the ribbon cables. I know someone had issues with their cables not fitting right. Im willing to donate my extras to the cause!!

IMG_0165.jpeg

IMG_0167.jpeg

How was it difficult? I received mine and plan to install it this weekend. I can be an idiot doing this stuff. I would love to help create a guide if it could help others.

Edited by swiller
1 hour ago, swiller said:

How was it difficult? I received mine and plan to install it this weekend. I can be an idiot doing this stuff. I would love to help create a guide if it could help others.

@Fred_M post here provides some guidance with captures:

I personally had to...

Quote

...remove all screws that are attached to the black plastic (some of them can be reached by using the holes in the PCBs). The complete front panel (where the cartridge slot and the switches are) will come loose and makes removing the Main Board and I/O board much easier.

 

  • Like 4

Just got done swapping mine. Of course I broke off the capacitor.  Fortunately,  I have plenty here so it was a quick fix.

 

Pitfall II now works, although it did not work on the first couple of tries.

 

Dud I read somewhere here that there is no need to flash the dumper with the new boards?

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6 hours ago, Alex_813 said:

Ho appena finito di sostituire il mio. Ovviamente ho rotto il condensatore. Fortunatamente, ne ho un sacco qui, quindi è stata una soluzione rapida.

 

Luckily you are experienced and capable of carrying out repairs. However, the advice is to remove every single screw, in order to avoid similar incidents.

 

I confirm, the dumper is already updated.

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On 10/13/2024 at 1:11 AM, Fred_M said:

Me too 😟 Last time Ben sent me something I received an email from our local postal services to pay the VAT (import outside of the EU) within a few days, but sadly no parcel or email yet. Fingers crossed 🤞

Mine will finally be delivered tomorrow. Just in time for my vacation, can't wait 😀

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Wow, it was more work than I thought... Thank you @Ben from Plaion! The new cartridge port is great!

 

new_io_board.thumb.jpg.49ad811ca29998320b166a6cf66e18be.jpg

 

@Trebor Can you please change the instructions I made a long time ago? It has been over a month so I cannot change them myself. The part about getting out the IO board with some force must be deleted. Somehow using a bit of force was enough to take my old IO board out, but it almost destroyed my new IO board. The capacitor near the cartridge port took too much damage, luckily I was able to repair the traces on the IO board. People should not try to use force, they really have to take all screws out. Also for some models the ribbon cables must be twisted.

 

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7 hours ago, Fred_M said:

@Trebor Can you please change the instructions I made a long time ago? It has been over a month so I cannot change them myself. The part about getting out the IO board with some force must be deleted. Somehow using a bit of force was enough to take my old IO board out, but it almost destroyed my new IO board. The capacitor near the cartridge port took too much damage, luckily I was able to repair the traces on the IO board. People should not try to use force, they really have to take all screws out. Also for some models the ribbon cables must be twisted.

 

Agreed and modifications to the instructions were performed.

  • Thanks 2

 

6 ore fa, MrChickenz ha detto:

Ecco dove mi confondo: come fai a sapere se il tuo modello richiede cavi intrecciati o no?

Lo notate perché nella nuova scheda le connessioni dei cavi piatti sono posizionate all'estremità della scheda stessa (nella vecchia scheda erano posizionate al centro). Inoltre, queste connessioni, come potete vedere dalla foto, sono invertite... ecco perché è necessario attorcigliare i cavi piatti. Nella fotografia la scheda IO in alto è quella nuova. Mi scuso per il mio inglese.

 

Screenshot_2024-10-20-09-22-08-04_29b563cd0bc4fd07bd0c105b17b28204.thumb.jpg.d5872c8b9c2f8dac2cbd5dff80becbea.jpg

 

IMG20241006155058.thumb.jpg.7fd59304296d89dd9c5d883e6a79bac3.jpg

Edited by susy
2 hours ago, susy said:

 

Lo notate perché nella nuova scheda le connessioni dei cavi piatti sono posizionate all'estremità della scheda stessa (nella vecchia scheda erano posizionate al centro). Inoltre, queste connessioni, come potete vedere dalla foto, sono invertite... ecco perché è necessario attorcigliare i cavi piatti. Nella fotografia la scheda IO in alto è quella nuova. Mi scuso per il mio inglese.

 

Screenshot_2024-10-20-09-22-08-04_29b563cd0bc4fd07bd0c105b17b28204.thumb.jpg.d5872c8b9c2f8dac2cbd5dff80becbea.jpg

 

IMG20241006155058.thumb.jpg.7fd59304296d89dd9c5d883e6a79bac3.jpg

Ok, now I understand thank you susy. 

Edited by MrChickenz
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8 hours ago, MrChickenz said:

This is where I am confused, how do you know if your model requires twisted cables or not?

At first I did not twist the ribbon cables and the power button was inverted 😂 I remembered reading that other people also needed to twist the cables so when I did that the power button worked correctly again.

  • Thanks 1
1 minute ago, Fred_M said:

At first I did not twist the ribbon cables and the power button was inverted 😂 I remembered reading that other people also needed to twist the cables so when I did that the power button worked correctly again.

Thank you Fred_M. Your instructions on replacing the IO Board is very detailed and easy to follow. So when mine arrives it should be a smooth process. Now I understand why the longer cables and having to twist them. And I will be removing the additional screws after reading some of the posts on here seems like the best approach. Thanks again!

  • Like 3
21 minutes ago, MrChickenz said:

Thank you Fred_M. Your instructions on replacing the IO Board is very detailed and easy to follow. So when mine arrives it should be a smooth process. Now I understand why the longer cables and having to twist them. And I will be removing the additional screws after reading some of the posts on here seems like the best approach. Thanks again!

Thank you @MrChickenz☺️ It is a fiddly job when you take off all the screws but it is the safest way.

 

What helped for me after I removed all screws is to put in the IO board, then attach the front plate again and secure the front plate with a few screws (not all of them). I did not secure the IO board with screws yet, so I had some more wiggle room to put the 2 smaller boards with switches back into their place. After that I put every screw back. A magnetic screwdriver is very helpful when you put back the screws that have to pass the holes in the boards.

 

Good luck!

  • Thanks 1
15 minutes ago, Fred_M said:

What helped for me after I removed all screws is to put in the IO board, then attach the front plate again and secure the front plate with a few screws (not all of them). I did not secure the IO board with screws yet, so I had some more wiggle room to put the 2 smaller boards with switches back into their place. After that I put every screw back. A magnetic screwdriver is very helpful when you put back the screws that have to pass the holes in the boards.

Added:

Quote

PRO TIP:  After removing all screws to put in the IO board, reattach the front plate again and secure the front plate with a few screws, though not all of them.  Do not secure the IO board with screws yet, as it provides some more flexibility to align the two smaller boards containing the console switches back into their respective place.  After that, put every screw back.  A magnetic screwdriver is very helpful when reinserting the screws that have to pass through the holes in the boards.

 

  • Thanks 4

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