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Atari 5200 has sound but no or weak video?


DistantStar001

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I've been hitting my head on this for a few years now. But here's the low-down: This is a 4-port model. Date codes indicate a 1982 manufacture date. I've tested all the major ICs (Sally, ANTIC, GTIA, POKY) in an Atari 800XL, and from what I can see they all work. I've also replaced the RAM and swapped the ROM. Both ROMs seemed to work, but I figured it couldn't hurt to try.

 

That said, I've recently misplaced the switch box so I did a power mod. Before the mod, I was able to get sound out of it (using a copy of Star Trek SOS), but not through the RF cable. I was also not getting a picture. More curiously, the console would power on when the cartridge was removed.

 

Since doing the power mod, I now get sound and a black screen through the RF port. So... no apparent harm, but no improvement either. Also, the console still powers on if the cartridge is removed. I've tried plugging it in with no cartridge, and it powers on immediately. Pressing the power button without a cartridge does not turn it off. But the button works perfectly when a cartridge is inserted.

 

Any suggestions?

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My first guess is that the 4013 IC might be faulty. In the 4 port models, that is usually in a socket and easy to replace. You can get a replacement from Console5 here in the states easily:

 

https://console5.com/store/cd4013-flip-flop-ic-atari-5200-power-stuck-on-or-off.html

 

Now the fact that you state the console powers on or off when you insert/remove a cartridge, tells me you also most likely have the modification in place for the VCS adapter? I say that because that modification actually routes the raw input voltage from the DC directly to the cartridge port pin that was used to power the VCS adapter. So it is possible you are shorting that connection causing the system to power on and do odd things because of this.

 

Can you provide a picture of your work and around the audio adjust coil section as that is where evidence of the VCS adapter modification is usually seen.

 

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14 hours ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

My first guess is that the 4013 IC might be faulty. In the 4 port models, that is usually in a socket and easy to replace. You can get a replacement from Console5 here in the states easily:

Replaced, but no luck.

14 hours ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

Now the fact that you state the console powers on or off when you insert/remove a cartridge, tells me you also most likely have the modification in place for the VCS adapter? I say that because that modification actually routes the raw input voltage from the DC directly to the cartridge port pin that was used to power the VCS adapter. So it is possible you are shorting that connection causing the system to power on and do odd things because of this.

 

Can you provide a picture of your work and around the audio adjust coil section as that is where evidence of the VCS adapter modification is usually seen.

Aside from some replaced sockets and the power mod, it looks pretty stock to me...

Screenshot2024-08-31at22_03_26.thumb.png.886710881b62e51d34ac7fc580cf4986.pngScreenshot2024-08-31at22_02_51.thumb.png.23c29b41b6417b116b9c3632c32dd29f.png

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5 hours ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

@DistantStar001 What is that small blue wire that goes across just above the power switch? I've never seen anything like that on any 5200 I've serviced? Is there any additional wiring or bodge work on the bottom of the PCB? 

 

Don't know, as I didn't put it there. But I can tell you that after I detached it, the console wouldn't power on at all with a cartridge installed. Without a cartridge, it wouldn't turn off. 

 

I've since put it back, and it appears to have resumed its previously unusual behavior. 

 

I should also note, that when I got this console, it did work until one day it just didn't. I really didn't mess with it until it stopped working.

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Alright! Progress/semi-fixed! 

 

First: BEHOLD MY AUFUL BODGE WORK!!!!

image.thumb.png.12b68356c6e977114028d1e366cf3e49.png

Ugly, I know. But it works.  It turns out there was a bit of a scratch on the back side that severed three traces. This probably happened when I replaced the socket. When the machine first stopped working I noticed that the pins in all the major IC sockets were... well, green. Not the best color for metal (even worse when the metal has copper in it), so I replaced them with some nice quality turn-pin sockets. Obviously, I must have knicked the back of the PCB without noticing.  I've given the PCB a few go-overs, and near as I can tell, there doesn't appear to be any other broken traces.

 

In any case, the video is back. The picture is RF, but good. And I no longer need to deal with that switch/power box I stuck in a box somewhere and can no longer find. However, there still are a couple of issues:

 

1) The console still powers on when a cartridge is removed and the power button does not turn it off. With a cartridge installed, the button functions normally. After fixing the severed traces, I tried disconnecting the bodge pointed out by @-^CrossBow^-, but the result was as before. The console powers on immediately without a cart installed and wouldn't power on at all with one. I've since put it back again, but at some point, I'd like to get my power button working properly, regardless of whether there's a cart installed or not.

 

2) There is some video static that appears on the screen any time the sound is played. It's possible the static was there the whole time. It's been a while since this thing last produced a picture. And even then it was through the switch/power box. If memory serves, the picture has definately improved from the power mod. And this thing has always been a bit quirky. Still, given how long it took me to get it back up and running, I'm not taking any of its quirks for granted.

 

In any case, that's where I stand. The consol works, if a bit oddly. If any one has any suggestions on how to get it to work more "normally" I'm all ears. Also, if anyone can tell me why that bodge wire is there, and what it does, I'd really like to know that too.

 

================================================================================

Update: No sooner do I verify that everything is working and screw this thing back together, smoke starts coming out from the case. I unplugged it, cracked it open and found that the insulation on the power wires had completely melted and even partially burned off. The diode provided in the Console 5 kit is cracked and there's some fuss like material that wasn't there before. The capacitor looks intact, but I'm not sure that I trust it now. 

 

Will post again, when I've assessed the extent of the damage.

Edited by DistantStar001
new and disappointing info
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I'm back. And so is my console!!!

 

Rebuilt the power mod (absent the diode since I didn't have another) using thicker wire than was provided by Console5, and swapped the 16v, 470µf capacitor from the kit with a 50v. And now my 5200 is behaving as abnormal. BUT.....  It is displaying a picture and sound snd it's loading games. And most importantly, it's NOT spitting smoke!

 

Interestingly, the added static when playing sound is gone, but the picture isn't as clear. On the other hand, I'm using a thinner RF cable since the one I was using was too short and stood too tall in the case. this one allows the case to close and is about the same length as the original. I may do an A/V composite mod at some point, but I would prefer one that doesn't require soldering, bending, or potentially damaging anything on the GTIA. 

 

As for everything else, the power button issue still remains. 

 

On a side note, I actually love Console5! They are and will still be one of my favorite goto's for parts and mod kits. This is the only product I ever bought from them that didn't work out as expected. And to be clear, this console had been messed with long before I ever did anything to it. I bought it as a parts machine from eBay as a challenge. So there were  some (shall we say) unknown factors at play here.

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Strange, I've never had an issue with the console5 power kit before. In fact, they even made sure to source wiring for the kit that was rated for about 24v or something as the usual 12v stuff wasn't going to be good enough in this case. It sounds to me like there is a short in that power input somewhere. I wonder it maybe the original cap you had between the Dc inputs might have been shorting or was bad? It isn't required and is just an extra filter that the DC wouldn't pass through normally. That is really the only thing I can think of. Pretty sure that diode they include is just a standard rectifier diode that can handle like 3A or something so for that to be cracked, there must have been some serious current there. Again, I suspect a short on the input that you likely corrected for when you redid it.

 

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