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Atari 130XE doesn't boot and SYSCHECK says memory is all good.


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I have a 130XE that hasn't booted for several years. Yesterday I decided to see what SYSCHECK could find out and SYSCHECK SAID that all of the memory was all OK. What is the best place to begin troubleshooting.

I replaced the OS and the Freddie and it now boots most of the time. Sometimes it doesn't boot, sometimes it boots to self test. When I run the self test it only checks the base memory.

There are a couple of wires that connect pins on the 74LS08 to the 74LS138 and to a via for the GTIA and another wire that connects two capacitors and I am not sure that I now have them connected correctly can someone tell me exactly what the connections are supposed to be?

65XEs and 130XEs all have 2x wires as standard. there are forum posts about it but i think it was mentioned that at the time, manufacturing staff were idle and were given the task as they were paid by the hour..!

the memory self-test does not test the extended memory unless you update the OS ROM to the XEGS later type. you can use a number of programs to test it tho - xram, simplechecker are 2x i can recall

you could try unplugging the keyboard and see if it boots to selftest, it could be a membrane issue causing the option key to be held down.

an OS issue can also cause it to do the same but you have replaced that already. the MMU plays a part in booting the OS so it might be worth a look. you can make an MMU from a GAL chip if you have a programmer - the files are on the forum.

45 minutes ago, hueyjones70 said:

There are a couple of wires that connect pins on the 74LS08 to the 74LS138 and to a via for the GTIA and another wire that connects two capacitors and I am not sure that I now have them connected correctly can someone tell me exactly what the connections are supposed to be?

 

image.thumb.png.1bb8f244ed96fca883b1913bfa75155e.png

 

Does this help?

 

Looks like U18 pin 9 & 10 to U2 pin 15, and U18 pin 8 to GTIA pin 32.

 

130xe_02.thumb.gif.6ed2366bdbf3bdcad6b56ffb9b8501fa.gif

The fact that it boots fine some of the time sounds like either a failing IC with a short or a socket that is faulty. Touch the tops of all the chips when the computer has been on for a few minutes to see if any are too hot to leave your finger on. That is one way to detect a shorted IC. If you have a multimeter, you can check to make sure there is 5V reaching the ICs. A voltage that is on the edge (e.g. 4.5V) could create sporadic failures. If your chips are socketed, I would remove them and reseat then after spraying some contact cleaner in the sockets. Oxidation can create intermittent contact of the pins. If you have an oscilloscope you can make sure the key chips are reading and producing correct signals. You can also flip the circuit board over and see if there are any bad solder joints or disconnected bodge wires. This is the process I use when diagnosing a system like this. I would love to see photos of the top and bottom of the circuit board. A key question is whether it crashes after it has been on for a while or is it only an intermittent bad boot? Good luck!!! 

Edited by scitari
  • Like 2

After getting all of the wires solder in correctly and replacing the Freddie and the OS, it has booted correctly about  a dozen times. I also let it run the diagnostic self test for a couple of hours.

  • Like 7
12 hours ago, hueyjones70 said:

After getting all of the wires solder in correctly and replacing the Freddie and the OS, it has booted correctly about  a dozen times. I also let it run the diagnostic self test for a couple of hours.

 

A successful result. I am glad that we could help.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Not entirely successful, it has started blinking out. When I let it run the self-test or a continuous program the video will blink out for a second or two. I replaced the 4050 IC and nothing changed. I figure it must be a bad connection in the video circuit or a bad component, (resistor or cap).

11 hours ago, hueyjones70 said:

Not entirely successful, it has started blinking out. When I let it run the self-test or a continuous program the video will blink out for a second or two. I replaced the 4050 IC and nothing changed. I figure it must be a bad connection in the video circuit or a bad component, (resistor or cap).

 

The video consists of some large ICs too. ANTIC and GTIA for instance.

 

Are these socketed? You haven't uploaded a picture yet.

 

image.thumb.png.6df89b984c6fe7b19c4e19e1a6e575c1.png

 

image.thumb.png.1dd49586dbae4df31920b71139ffd0e8.png

@hueyjones70 I just remembered that U20 CD4050, should ideally also be linked to the ground plane if possible by strapping U20 pins 8 & 9 to ground, as there is very little ground area in the vicinity of the U20 chip.

 

This is intended to reduce picture interference and is often quoted in the S-Video modification, but may help the normal output anyway.

In order to try and isolate the problem I hooked up the RF output and had no video problems do I switched to composite and again had no video issues so the problem seems to be specific to the chroma circuit.

I had completed the Peterson 320K RAM upgrade but I took it out to make sure it wasn't part of the problem. I will try another TV tomorrow. I was running the video through a converter with Video and S-Video inputs and HDMI output.

Edited by hueyjones70

The solder work on this is very inconsistent. Amazed it's worked enough for syscheck to give results. The solder blobs, overfill and underfill of joints on the pcb is crazy.

I would invest in a decent iron, good lead based solder and seriously good flux. It need a good cleaning and follow that with pulling the excess solder off the blobs. Then fill in those voids holes and cracks. Some wires appear to have holes melted in the insulation, and possible whiskers. I'd clean those up, heat shrink or replace them.

  • Like 1

I'm going to head this one off at the pass to save you a post and state that your 320K upgrade isn't going to work properly either (you will only have four banks that can hold unique data).

 

One of these things is not like the others,
One of these things just doesn't belong,
Can you tell which thing is not like the others
By the time I finish my song?

 

 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

64K and 256K if the blurry one is just that... while hinting along with the great song.

still need to clean the crap out of this and check their is no rust in the rf can while your at it. saw more voids and crack when looking a second time.

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