Start up Screen/error

[WicoKid]

This image is pretty consistent start up from an Odyssey 2 I came across, same whether cartridge inserted or not. Just seeing if anyone had thoughts about where to start. Have cleaned cartridge slot well and cleaned reseated ROM/CPU. AV is composite bypassing RF conversion.

Edited November 5 by WicoKid

[+atari2600land]

I may be of little help here, but I can tell you the console will only work if there is a game plugged into the console. This screen looks like that's not happening.

[metarog]

A very common failure that produces this screen is the 8048 socketed chip on the motherboard. 
I’ve had a dozen O2s and about a 1/4 had this issue. 
 

[WicoKid]

Update: Short version, it was either cold solder joints or bad socket on the socket of IC5. The board now works.

 

Long version: No change with recap. Ordered new processor, Closest part number I could find P8548AH, didn't work. Opened another Odyssey 2, proved original processor  (IC7) and IC5 worked and the new processor (P8548AHP) did not. Now blank screen on non working Odyssey but noticed a brief flash when pressing board on IC5 or 7. Reflowed sockets IC5,IC7 and IC 9 and slot and multiple IC. Now got option to "Select" when pressing on IC5. Used small tip to manipulate pins on IC5 socket and now works.

 

PROBLEM now, the keyboard only partially works and I can see that 2 traces on ribbon cable completely broken near insertion. Is there a solution to replace ribbon cable? Is it worth it to try and remove keyboard and replace the cable or am I just going to damage membrane/ribbon attachment more?

[DanBoris]

7 hours ago, WicoKid said:

Update: Short version, it was either cold solder joints or bad socket on the socket of IC5. The board now works.

 

Long version: No change with recap. Ordered new processor, Closest part number I could find P8548AH, didn't work. Opened another Odyssey 2, proved original processor  (IC7) and IC5 worked and the new processor (P8548AHP) did not. Now blank screen on non working Odyssey but noticed a brief flash when pressing board on IC5 or 7. Reflowed sockets IC5,IC7 and IC 9 and slot and multiple IC. Now got option to "Select" when pressing on IC5. Used small tip to manipulate pins on IC5 socket and now works.

 

PROBLEM now, the keyboard only partially works and I can see that 2 traces on ribbon cable completely broken near insertion. Is there a solution to replace ribbon cable? Is it worth it to try and remove keyboard and replace the cable or am I just going to damage membrane/ribbon attachment more?

 

The O2's processor has a built in bios ROM, so the only way to replace it with an off the shelf part is program the bios into the new part.

 

Unless this is a different type of keyboard then I am used to seeing, the ribbon cable is part of the membrane of the keyboard so not replaceable. I have had some luck repairing the traces on the ribbon cable with a conductive pen like this one...

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OZATJ3A?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

[aotta]

Depending on where are the broken tracks, also cutting some centimeters the ribbon solved for me in a couple of cases, also if it was a pain reassembling the case after the shorting

Edited November 22 by aotta

[WicoKid]

UpDate:

 

Short version: partially working after using conductive ink on ribbon cable. Numbers 0-7, reset enter key and most letters work. Still kind of odd in that at some point the number keys stop working but will immediately come back after reset or on/off. It seems to work fine with joystick original Odyssey 2 catridges but will only briefly boot PICO based multicart then crash.

 

Long Version: pain in the neck. The traces on the ribbon cable essentially changed to dust with manipulation/plugging and unplugging. Eventually used scissors to cut the end of the cable but with variable success....eventually fixed the keyboard until it wasn't working (traces kept disintegrating) . Made an adapter (see picture) still no luck, further disassembly and removed keyboard with heat gun,  found additional broken traces where the ribbon cable u-turns back to the keyboard (picture); separated layers of keyboard with heat gun and used repeated applications of conductive ink to repair; still traces remained fragile with multiple applications of ink to a state that at least I can boot reset non keyboard based games. Not anticipating it to function for very long. 

 

I included a picture of the back of the keyboard incase anyone was feeling spunky and wanted to sort out the matrix, design a replacement and post it here. Putting it away for now, but maybe will come back to it and just design a small numeric pad with numbers, enter and reset. Pins 1-10 on the ribbon connector are ground, reset then numerical results (7 down to 0).