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Wah! It died!


liveinabin

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Woe is me. My faithful and trusted PAL 6 switch woody died last night. No idea what happened, just plugged it in, turned on and nothing! TV is getting a signal (well, the on screen channel number stabilizes when I flick the 2600 power on and wobbles about when off :) ).

 

I have another woody in the basement that I recall (from trial and error experiments, swapping bits from one 2600 to the other) had a dead TIA chip. I transferred the TIA from my main unit into this one but still nothing :(

 

Either the TIA in my main 2600 is also dead or I was wrong in my diagnosis of my spare 2600 :)

I don't know what I'm doing, you can tell, right ? :)

 

(oh, I should add, I do have a 2600 here that I bought for a friend that works OK, so I used that to make sure the rf lead and other little bits were OK)

 

Anyway, just wanted to ask - what are the most common causes of a dead 2600? Can I have burned out two TIA chips? If so, what happened to cause that? Faulty power pack? Horrendously bad luck?

 

Thanks,

 

Atariless Liveinabin :(

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Hi there!

 

Atariless Liveinabin :(

 

Oh dear! I bet that's worse than Macless! :sad:

 

I remember how it sucked when *only* my H.E.R.O. cartridge died, but don't having *any* game working is certainly a lot worse! :-o :-o :-o

 

I can asap send you a spare Jr. console if you want.

 

Greetings,

Manuel

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Have you swapped power supplies using one that is know to be good. Have you tried a different cart that is know to work. You mentioned swapping RF cables, so that's been done. RF cable pullled off the connecter inside?? Is the electric wall socket you're using a good one.

 

Good luck, I hope it's not truly dead.

Edited by D.Yancey
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Ah right. Well I tried that power supply on the friends 2600 and it worked OK. Must say, I don't really trust it though. Might get a multi-adaptor tomorrow and run a few more tests.

I'll let you know how I get on. And any more ideas are welcome :)

 

Manuel, that is SO kind! That'd be awesome if you can spare it. I promise to only play your games on it! :D

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Good idea. I can just prize them out and plug them in, yeah? I guess I can be a bit more heavy handed with an old thing like the 2600. The delicacy of the Xbox innards freaked me out a bit :)

 

I'll try that tomorrow with a new power supply (if I can get to the TV - wife has a new Katamari Damacy addiction :) )

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Good idea.  I can just prize them out and plug them in, yeah?  I guess I can be a bit more heavy handed with an old thing like the 2600.  The delicacy of the Xbox innards freaked me out a bit :)

 

I'll try that tomorrow with a new power supply (if I can get to the TV - wife has a new Katamari Damacy addiction :) )

942522[/snapback]

 

Yep you can just swap them out and fire it up.

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Good idea.  I can just prize them out and plug them in, yeah?  I guess I can be a bit more heavy handed with an old thing like the 2600.

942522[/snapback]

One thing you MUST be careful about is static electricity - if any of the chips is still good, they're not hard to kill. A charge too weak for you to hear, see or feel can instantly fry one. If you have a grounding (earthing) wrist strap, use it. If not, I suggest: wear no synthetic or woolen clothing (cotton is best). Work in an area with a concrete or wood floor. Handle the ICs as little as possible, avoiding the pins. Touch a grounded/earthed metal object just before touching the chips. Use a metal tray or a slab of anti-static black foam as a safe surface if you must put them down between extraction and re-installation. Before you set them on your safe surface, touch both the surface and the earthed metal object at the same time.

 

The delicacy of the Xbox innards freaked me out a bit :)

 

I'll try that tomorrow with a new power supply (if I can get to the TV - wife has a new Katamari Damacy addiction :) )

942522[/snapback]

The Xbox circuitry may be physically delicate, but I assure you it's far more robust in regards to static electricity!

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The Xbox circuitry may be physically delicate, but I assure you it's far more robust in regards to static electricity!

942685[/snapback]

:? I've heard, read, seen and been taught that NMOS chips (as in the 2600) are far less susceptible to damage from static discharge than CMOS chips (as in lots of modern stuff.)

 

How would an XBOX be more robust then?

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How would an XBOX be more robust then?

 

Gotta say, I'd rather handle an old 6507 than a modern CPU any day....

 

Anyway, if you want your 6-switcher repairing, stick it in a box and mail it to me and I'll try and fix it for cost (you're in the UK, right?). If you take the boards out and just send them then the postage won't be much. PM me if you'd like me to resurrect it for you....

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This is why I visit this site. What a community, eh?

 

@Spirantho - wow, thanks mate! I'll have a quick stab at it myself (I'll try not to damage it further:) ) and, if my feeble efforts fail ("if"... ha!) I'll be PMing you right away.

 

@Manuel - Dude! That's SO kind. You rule :)

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The Xbox circuitry may be physically delicate, but I assure you it's far more robust in regards to static electricity!

942685[/snapback]

:? I've heard, read, seen and been taught that NMOS chips (as in the 2600) are far less susceptible to damage from static discharge than CMOS chips (as in lots of modern stuff.)

 

How would an XBOX be more robust then?

942727[/snapback]

It's called, "built-in protective diodes" (inside modern CMOS IC packages). With the built-in protection, it takes a bigger zap to overwhelm the diodes than it does to blast an unprotected NMOS chip.

 

You might be familiar with certain static-protective measures introduced in the Atari 2600 Field Service manual as mandatory upgrades to any units coming in for service which didn't have them previously installed, including addition of a couple of zener diodes on the fire button signal lines.

 

Why only those lines is a mystery to me - perhaps they're just the most susceptible, and protecting all of them would be too expensive.

 

A.J.

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You might be familiar with certain static-protective measures introduced in the Atari 2600 Field Service manual as mandatory upgrades to any units coming in for service which didn't have them previously installed, including addition of a couple of zener diodes on the fire button signal lines.

943084[/snapback]

 

My friend's Heavy Sixer has fire button inputs that work, but one of 'em tends to false-trigger a lot when using old CX-40's (interestingly, they don't false-trigger so much on the FB2 CX-40's). My original thought was that the pullup resistor had a bad connection; is it more likely to be the buffer chip?

 

As for why only the fire button inputs would be protected in a retrofit, the paddles already have RC circuits on the inputs and the joystick direction inputs go to the RIOT which may be a bit beefier than a simple logic gate.

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My friend's Heavy Sixer has fire button inputs that work, but one of 'em tends to false-trigger a lot when using old CX-40's (interestingly, they don't false-trigger so much on the FB2 CX-40's).  My original thought was that the pullup resistor had a bad connection; is it more likely to be the buffer chip?

943090[/snapback]

Those are both good possibilities but the CD4050 (or its Atari-numbered CO10181602 equivalent) is IMO more likely. First, check the pullup's connections since that's the easiest fix. Next, since it's easier for most people than pulling the IC, you could try the zener mod to see if it helps - put a 6.3 volt zener across the fire button line's noise filter capacitor, which is near the port connector on the board. The cathode (striped) end of the diode goes to the side opposite the common ground connection. If the false triggering is still there, you'll probably have to replace the buffer. Be sure you install a socket if you do. In any case, I would definitely do the zener mod on both fire button lines.

Edited by A.J. Franzman
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Woe is me. My faithful and trusted PAL 6 switch woody died last night. No idea what happened, just plugged it in, turned on and...wobbles about when off  ).

 

I have another woody in the basement...

*********AND NOW TO BREAK OFF THE TECHNICAL TALK***********

 

Is it just me or anyone else NOT want to hear about this guy's woodies?

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This is a bit different spin, but my 2600's are the only game systems I have left right now. Was just burgled, thief or thieves took dvd player, ps2, ps, n64, etc...plus all games and electronic goodies, but left my composite modded 2600 right where i left it beside the other systems...I guess at least I have something to keep me entertained for a while. Perhaps i'll have time to be more active in the HSC ;)

 

I guess thieves steal for quick cash iso entertainment value...

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  • 1 year later...

Hi, I noticed this thread and I thought I may as well post here in reguards to my 2 busted Woodys as opposed to create a new one.

Both switch on, but always on the screen is just a blank black screen. Both RF Modulators appear to be fine. The better of the condition of the two I did have working in the first place, I was working on the PC with it switched on with River raid in the slot when the screen got slightly darker (Not mistaking it for the colour change) and then went to black. Ive opened it up, cleaned out the slots, tried moving the cart slightly in the slot when switched on as this somtimes gets games to work on a Mega Drive, but to no avail. Ive tried looking up on google to see if I can find out what is directly to blame but all I get is junk. So with my first post I ask for your help, as being a 16yr old Student I have next to no money.

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