SOLD: 5200 4-Port Console, 2 Controllers, Carts

[A.J. Franzman]

I have recently had returned to me, the items from this previous topic: FT/FS: 5200 4-Port Console, 2 Controllers, Kangaroo Cart

 

I picked up a 5200 4-port console at a thrift store and would like to trade or sell it to someone who can make use of it. The AC adapter power supply and the special automatic RF switchbox are not included (I don't have them). This style is made to have the power supply plug into the RF switchbox. The case is in fair shape; there are a few scratches on the aluminum, one of the 4 hinge pegs on the lid has been broken and glued, and there's an area near the front center where it looks like the plastic got lightly melted by something hot and textured, or perhaps some plasticizer transfer from styrofoam or vinyl, but it's not too severe and may even be repairable if you're a model builder or something like that.

 

 

This console has 4 controller ports, full expansion port and socketed ICs so is probably one of those that has few (if any) game compatibility issues.

 

I also have 3 common cartridges and a pair of controllers with it. Both controllers are well used and have no rubber boots, but still have the pink protective plastic over the metal "Atari 5200" logo strip. By cleaning the controller contacts I was able to get them both working fairly well.

 

 

The person who previously received this console claimed, "when i plugged it in the red light went on 2 times and never did again". Before sending it, I had run it for 2-3 hours during cleaning and testing of the controllers, so I believe there was nothing wrong with it at that time. After receiving it back again, I can still find nothing at all wrong with it electronically. Screenshots below were made after I got it back, using a homemade adapter to power the console in the normal way through the RF cable, but using a manual switchbox (plans available here: 5200 Switchbox). The AC adapter I used is electrically compatible but has the wrong plug, and I need it for something else.

 

 

Please make offers. If interested in a trade, follow the first link in my sig for my wants (all my wants are 2600 related).

 

People who indicated interest but did not receive this lot the previous time I offered it will receive priority consideration, if any of them still want it.

Edited April 1, 2007 by A.J. Franzman

[A.J. Franzman]

bump

[A.J. Franzman]

Hey folks,

 

I'm not looking to get a load of cash or trade items for this. If I don't get any offers soon I'm going to disassemble and scavenge the console and controllers for parts and probably trash the rest.

[shadow460]

I wonder how much shipping on that would cost? That's why I havent made an offer--the 5200 is not exactly a small item to ship.

[A.J. Franzman]

I wonder how much shipping on that would cost?

That depends partly on how far it is from La-La Land to The Blue Zone. If you didn't know, La-La Land is an old nickname of Los Angeles. I have no idea where The Blue Zone is. Also, I found out after my previous debacle with this lot that for items weighing more than a couple of pounds, UPS Ground is often cheaper than USPS Parcel Post, especially for longer distances. I would guess not more than $18 to anywhere in the 48 states, less the closer you are to the southwest corner.

Edited October 30, 2006 by A.J. Franzman

[shadow460]

I'm in Oklahoma City. Doesn't FedEx have a saver shipping program? I've used that to ship a graphics card back to ATi. They repaired it and I got it back in about a month.

 

Still, with the holidays coming, I'm not sure how much I could offer.

Edited October 30, 2006 by shadow460

[Breakpack]

Has anyone set a price yet?

[A.J. Franzman]

I have an offer of $20, shipped. Deducting the cost of shipping, that's less than what I paid for it, not even including the fiasco with the previous "buyer". But if that's all it's worth, maybe I should take it.

[shadow460]

Frankly, I'm kind of surprised mine is the only offer you've got. I made the offer since the system needs a home and my carts need a system.

I simply cannot offer AJ any more than that, but I know the working sticks alone would be worth buying for someone who's already got a system.

Edited November 2, 2006 by shadow460

[tjlazer]

How did you rig up a temp power supply for it? I have one that I cannot test as well... Are all the pins present for the 4 joy ports?

Edited November 3, 2006 by tjlazer

[A.J. Franzman]

How did you rig up a temp power supply for it?

First, you need an AC adapter that is rated for at least 1.7 amps (1700 mA) output at about 9-15 volts DC. I used a 4 amp, 12 VDC switching supply from an old Motorola radio charger. Once you have the AC adapter, for a 4-port 5200, if you don't have the special automatic RF switchbox, you can build the DC-RF adapter that is linked from my first post above. For a 2-port console, all you need to do is adapt the plug from whatever AC adapter you found to the style the 5200 needs -- coaxial plug, center positive, 5.0 mm O.D., 2.1 mm I.D. (I believe this is Radio Shack's style "K"). If you use the DC-RF adapter, it will go between the 5200's RF cable and the TV just like the automatic RF switchbox would (I used a 2600 switchbox and 300-75 ohm matching transformer to connect the DC-RF adapter to the TV, but several other ways are equally valid). BTW, for my DC-RF adapter, I used a manufactured 10 uH inductor rather than the "wire wrapped around a bolt" method from the plans. The 5200 schematic only calls for 2.7 uH, which is quite a low value -- it doesn't take much to keep most of the signal where we want it. Just make sure you don't use one that's made of really fine magnet wire; remember, it needs to carry almost 2 amps.

 

I have one that I cannot test as well... Are all the pins present for the 4 joy ports?

Yes.

 

EDIT: I might have made a mistake about the plug that the 5200 needs. I now think maybe it's a 5.5 mm O.D., 2.8 mm I.D., Radio Shack's "Adaptaplug" style "O". Please somebody let me know which is correct and point me back to this post, and I will make the final correction.

Edited February 5, 2007 by A.J. Franzman

[A.J. Franzman]

OK shadow460, as of now it's tentatively yours for $20, shipped. I will try to verify sometime on Saturday that everything is still working, at least to the extent the available games will let me test. I think as far as controller buttons go, I can not test the left lower fire button or any of the numbers except "1", but I can test Start, Pause, Reset, *, #, both upper fire buttons (Kangaroo) and the right lower fire button (Super Breakout).

[shadow460]

Cool.